I put a little Cruiser in my Taco

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Stepmurr

Lookin' fer the end of that old white line
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Toyota really short-changed Tacoma owners by putting an electrically operated transfer case in it, while putting a manual shift case in FJ Cruisers. It is basically the same chain-driven transfer case and is (nearly) interchangeable.

I got tired of my Tacoma's transfer case and all the BS it has put me through, so I swapped it out for an FJ Cruiser case.

I started having problems with the electric actuator several years ago and had to wire up a relay box because the computer refused to shift in & out of four wheel drive reliably.

The relay box still had problems, especially when it was very cold, and I am glad somebody showed me how to swap in a FJ transfer case.

I did a full write-up of the swap on the Rock Solid Toys forum but thought I'd post a few pics here as well. Does having a Cruiser transfer case qualify the Taco as CSC vehicle now? :hillbilly:


Full write-up:
http://www.rocksolidtoys.com/forum/showthread.php?t=661


Pic 1 - Donor FJ Cruiser that died for my swap

Pic 2 - Relay box for the front ADD, rear locker, & rotary switch for old Tacoma electric transfer case
Pic 3 - FJ Cruiser transfer case pulled apart to modify for twin sticks
Pic 4 - Welded up twin stick extensions
Pic 5 - Finished twin sticks - no more electrics!
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Interesting that the transfer case is compatible.

. This guy is in love with your 'relay box'. You forgot the death ray and melt beam on that thing!

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well done ! :clap:
 
I always wondered why Toyota did this. Seems obvious, you can get a manual trans in a Tacoma, but the xfer case is electric? One of the few things I'm not crazy about with my Taco. Another is the SOFT paint.
 
Having a switch on the dash was great - until it wasn't!

The ADD actuator rusted out first and started the whole electrical mess.

I replaced the actuator and then the ADD would engage but the transfer case wouldn't and the dash lite would just keep blinking.

I wasted quite a bit of money buying a new 4wd computer module that didn't help - almost cost as much as the FJ Cruiser transfer case.

If you ever start having transfer case problems I recommend doing the swap as the best solution.

You can pop the transfer case motor off and shift it by hand, but that got old real quick and usually I had to do it when it was really cold.

Nothing beats a simple reliable shift lever!
 
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:clap:
 
Curious was the 87 FJ60 the last year a Land Cruiser had a manually operated 4WD in the US market? I know the high low was still manual but only way to switch the open transfer case to a locked transfer case is thru a button or switch. While neither of our two DDs are Land Cruisers anymore both are either full time 4WD or option of running a the transfer case in open 4WD. A option I wouldn't be without driving in snow and ice on paved roads. But the blinking light while it decides to shift is some what of a pain. My FJ62 likes to warm up a little before the vacuum shifter works but has always worked so I'll just leave it.

I am curious why your Taco has had rust problem here in AZ? Mud/dirt build up? I've never had a issue but I'm also anal about washing the underside of my vehicles.
 
[QUOTE="Living in the Past, post: 9448400, member: 6492]
I am curious why your Taco has had rust problem here in AZ? Mud/dirt build up? I've never had a issue but I'm also anal about washing the underside of my vehicles.[/QUOTE]

The ADD is not well sealed, and even though it has a vent line it had about a tablespoon of rusty water in ity and the motor and wipers were completly rusted and inoperable.

Water is a known problem for these actuators.
 
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The ADD is not well sealed, and even though it has a vent line it had about a tablespoon of rusty water in ity and the motor and wipers were completly rusted and inoperable.

Water is a known problem for these actuators.
Is your Taco a US made truck? A design that allows water to be trapped in a location that electronics are is not good. Only US made vehicle I own is a Sequoia which so far haven't given me any problems other than slow switching into low range. This a DD and see very little offroad use much less water crossings. Only time I have a problem is while exercising the transfer case. Does remind me of a CL I seen lately. Guy had extended the rear axle vent and was claiming how great it was driving thru a meter of water with the recent rains. To me that would be a pass as far a buying. Modern vehicle have to many electronic that can be damage by water. For water crossings I take a sixties cruiser over a modern vehicle.
 
Is your Taco a US made truck? A design that allows water to be trapped in a location that electronics are is not good. Only US made vehicle I own is a Sequoia which so far haven't given me any problems other than slow switching into low range. This a DD and see very little offroad use much less water crossings. Only time I have a problem is while exercising the transfer case. Does remind me of a CL I seen lately. Guy had extended the rear axle vent and was claiming how great it was driving thru a meter of water with the recent rains. To me that would be a pass as far a buying. Modern vehicle have to many electronic that can be damage by water. For water crossings I take a sixties cruiser over a modern vehicle.

Based on my VIN the Taco was assembled at the NUMMI, its joint venture with General Motors in Fremont, California.

This is what the actuator looked like when I finally pulled it off the axle. The axle portion was well sealed and there was no water in the axle or diff, but the motor case didn't fare so well:oops:
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Looks like your front axle as well as the transfer case had problems. Have you solved the water getting into the front actuator? Do you have the undercarriage under water much? My V8 4runner is full time 4WD so no problem there. Guessing my Sequoia has pretty much the same setup. I've heard of issues with the front actuator in the cold but my Sequoia is slow shifting even in warm weather. On my FJ62 I believe it's the vacuum switch on the firewall and not the diaphragm at the transfer case that needs to warm up. A few minutes with a hair dryer before starting the vehicle would answer that question. I just have to borrow a air dryer from my wife. For some reason I haven't needed one in years.:hmm::rolleyes:
 
I looked at the Tacoma pretty hard when shopping...the electronic T-Case was a deal breaker and I ended up with an FJC...

Glad you were able to get things sorted out.
 
Since the write up link is no longer available, do you have any info on making this work with a rear locker on a second gen tacoma? I have everything working perfectly, but can't seem to figure out the rear locker.
 
Have a question about transfer cases. Had a 3rd gen T4R. It had a manual case. Our 4th gen T4R is all electronic. While looking at 5th gen T4R see both options available depending what model. The limited is now back to full time 4WD full electron like the V8 4X4 4th gen. Since the T4R wasn't mentioned did the manual case start after the FJ Cruiser was discontinued or was it always an available in the 5th gen?
 
Since the write up link is no longer available, do you have any info on making this work with a rear locker on a second gen tacoma? I have everything working perfectly, but can't seem to figure out the rear locker.
There are dozens of web posts on getting the locker to work independent of the 4-LO switch. The most direct way is to wire a double pole switch directly to the locker so you can change polarity of the power to the locker to engage or disengage it.

Other methods like the one in this link use a relay to fool the ECU into thinking you are in 4-LO and you can use the existing dash button to engage it.


Since I eliminated my ECU long before I replaced the transfer case I just used the relays and switches on my relay box that I made when I was still able to control my electric transfer case.
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The "best" method to control your locker depends on your electrical skills and the year of your truck. Apparently as the 2nd gen evolved the wiring colors changed and the ecu controls more things, so as you are browsing around the interwebs keep that in mind and make sure the suggested "mod" works on your year truck.

For my relay box I traced all the wires from the ADD, rear locker, and electric actuator both physically and on the repair manual schematic. I then determined where the relays needed to be powered from and what limit switches needed to be wired through the relays.

The rotary switch to choose the 2 wheel drive / four wheel high / four wheel low saved me around three additional relays.

How are you actuating your ADD?
 

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