I had 35's installed today and this is how it went

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supercarrera

Club Esprit de Four
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I had 35x12.5x20 Nitto Terra Grapplers installed on my LX570 today using 3/4" Bora spacers. As expected, they rub quite a bit in a few places. The rubbing on the plastic fender liners doesn't worry me at all as that should be easy to fix. I had to remove the side steps because they were rubbing the leading edge too much. Even after removing the steps, the tires are rubbing quite a bit on the bracket and I'm pretty sure I would need to cut that off or bend it back somehow. The thing that worries me however, is the contact with the upper control arms. The contact is pretty substantial and occurs at somewhere like 2/3's turning to the left for the right tire and maybe 5/6's turn to the right for the left tire. Is there a remedy for the UCA contact? Maybe 1" spacers or having an alignment shop make some adjustments? The gap between the body mount and the tire is really small as well. It's something like 1/8". Is that something I should be worried about?

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Get SPC upper control arms. They have an adjustable upper ball joint that will take care of most of the issues you are having
 
Depending on where you got your tires, you may want to check and see if they will let you swap your 12.50 width tires for 11.50.
 
Those tires are simply TOO BIG for your rig. You'll be chasing rubbing forever, and even if you get it to where you can live with it for on-road use, anything that truly articulates the suspension to its limits will be a problem.

I guess this makes me "that guy" :(
 
I think you're right @gaijin. I don't see how they could work without always having some rubbing somewhere. The big issue I think is the UCA contact. If I try to push the tires out with bigger spacers, I think that will just increase the rubbing issues in other areas. I'm wondering how the heck Slee got 35" Trail Grapplers to work on an LX since I think they're even a little bigger than my Terra Grapplers.
 
Slee had rubbing and wasn't afraid to make room with a big @$$ hammer.
 
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I think you're right @gaijin. I don't see how they could work without always having some rubbing somewhere. The big issue I think is the UCA contact. If I try to push the tires out with bigger spacers, I think that will just increase the rubbing issues in other areas. I'm wondering how the heck Slee got 35" Trail Grapplers to work on an LX since I think they're even a little bigger than my Terra Grapplers.
He didn't really, says they rub everywhere and are too big. They look good though!
 
Tundra conversion makes it fairly straightforward.
Take advantage of others mistakes and save the damaged components.

So far my only issue running 35s has been self induced. Tires clear, and have full travel (No crazy bumpstops limiting up travel)
No crazy angles on the suspension components, running 3.75" lift.
Does suck for gas mileage though...hoping new gears will reign that in a little
 
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34s may be a better solution. Here's @DeckerT4R s LX on 34" Ridge Grapplers, measuring 33.86 unmounted. Before modifying the AHC, he stated he had no rubbing other than on the mudflaps and fender liners.

LX570 AHC height modifications (lift it!)
Normal height:
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@DeckerT4R please share any thoughts or experiences you've had running these tires. I believe you said you were not running spacers.
 
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They look nice!
I wonder if a narrower 35 would have cleared without problems, like 285.65.20, or even 285.75.18 :)

I'm thinking the same thing. I don't suppose anyone on here has tried a 35x11.5x20 on an LX to see if it clears the UCA. The 35x12.5 rubs pretty significantly there that I don't even think the 1" less width of an 11.5 would be enough to clear it.
 
I'm thinking the same thing. I don't suppose anyone on here has tried a 35x11.5x20 on an LX to see if it clears the UCA. The 35x12.5 rubs pretty significantly there that I don't even think the 1" less width of an 11.5 would be enough to clear it.

I think what you really need to ask yourself is, in your use case, what specific advantages do 35" tires buy you that outweigh the disadvantages AND can NOT be accomplished with 33" tires. Unless you spend a great deal of your driving time in more challenging than normal offroad situations, I think the answer is obvious - 33" will do the job.

Just bear in mind that for on-road use, the larger/heavier the tire, you will experience slower acceleration, longer braking distances, worse gas mileage, etc. If these trade-offs are worth it to yo9u, then go for it; but it seems to me to be a high price to pay.

I often get caught up in the excitement of modding my LC, but just because I CAN, doesn't always mean I SHOULD.

HTH
 
Just bear in mind that for on-road use, the larger/heavier the tire, you will experience slower acceleration, longer braking distances, worse gas mileage, etc. If these trade-offs are worth it to you, then go for it; but it seems to me to be a high price to pay.

All true, but most people on this forum (yourself included) upgraded the stock wheels and tires for the increased size, appearance, traction, and strength of larger, heavier LT tires.

So 34s are just pushing a little further.
 
That full shot looks righteous!

So close to working. Looking at the pics, I think part of it is that the NTGs tend to be a pretty squared shouldered. So the edge of the treads where it meets the sidewall is ever so more pronounced that it just interferes with the upper arms. 1" spacers would most definitely solve that issue. Alignment won't as the relationship is fixed by the suspension upright. Though aftermarket upper arms may give more clearance there and the ability to bring the tire forward and opening up the clearance to the body mount. As another option, I personally wouldn't be afraid to grind down that arm in that spot, and weld in reinforcements behind it.

With 1" spacers, that might actually just make the corner point where the tire is closest to the body mount open up a bit more, as the body mount tapers as it gets farther away from the frame.

That L bracket that supports the lower molding can be massaged away from the wheel well somewhat to open probably another 1/4" of clearance. Though it does seem you'll need to cut some of the inner part of the sidestep.

It can be made to work if you're set on it. Seems to like your an upper arm away from making it happen?

Thanks for pushing the boundaries and helping the next guy out.

Reminds me of fitting wider and larger tires on my Porsche. Had to massage and move radiators, turbo hoses, and fender liners to make it happen. But it happened!
 
Slee had rubbing and wasn't afraid to make room with a big @$$ hammer.

There is actually one spot where you DO use a hammer: In the rear wheel well. There’s a sharp protrusion that is hard to describe, but you’ll know it when you look.

You literally hammer it so that it curls away from the tires.

So in that sense...Slee was not entirely kidding. ;)

PS. Goofy hammer anecdote aside... It’s also true that Slee does not recommend 35’s. ;) ...But his techs are very good at helping them fit if that’s what you want to do.
 
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All true, but most people on this forum (yourself included) upgraded the stock wheels and tires for the increased size, appearance, traction, and strength of larger, heavier LT tires.

I went with 33's (slightly less, actually) and that's what I recommended to @supercarrera.
 
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Tires that wide simply don’t work. That’s far more of a problem than height, but the tire is too tall as well unless you’re seriously committed to making it work. I’ve posted this several times, but here is my LX stock with 275/65/20 KO2s that are a 34x11 tire. No real rubbing to speak of once you ditch front mud flaps. Seriously save yourself a ton of trouble and ditch a 35x12.50 - I’m actually surprised the tire shop agreed to let you leave with that many issues!

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Also these are both running 34x11" tires just one is an 18" wheel vs 20" wheel.

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