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Thank you sir. I didn’t even realize there was a cut away for valve access. They have been moved just in case the tire installer doesn’t fully remove the rings.In case you haven't already found it on your own, you may find some helpful info in this Toyota publication about those wheels: https://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/installation/40362D86F9D917D98825767800785BB2_Tundra_Sequoia_Land Cruiser TRD Alloy Wheel PTR45-34070-34120 IssF.pdf NOTE: If you do go with the LT285/70R17 tires, the correct Cold Tire Inflation Pressure is 40psi, not the 46psi stated in the pdf.
Also note, the valve protection ring in your pic is not aligned correctly. The cutout on the ring for valve access should be placed at the tire valve location. You'll probably remove them before mounting tires anyway, so no big deal.
Those are great wheels, enjoy!
HTH
Thank you sir. I didn’t even realize there was a cut away for valve access. They have been moved just in case the tire installer doesn’t fully remove the rings.
I’m planning to put 285/75R17 KO2’s on there. Based on your ask Gaijin thread, I thought the CTIP was 37. Am I mistaken? I understand that I will have to cut some inner fender liner. I’m getting Trail Tailor front and rear bumpers so I figure we’d have to cut a good chunk anyways.
Winner winner chicken dinner. I did the Tundra swap up front with a 3.0 with the heimed Icon UCA with delta joint. In the rear I got the regular old 2.5 with the Icon trailing arms and dual rate springs. This is my first Icon set up so I’m not versed on stages. I just ordered this stuff piecemeal. Trying to:Looks as though this guy went 3.0 up front - little yellow sticker helped me draw that conclusion - which stage is still up in the air and his surprise to tell
You may be the first one to try out the delta joint and 3.0 on 200 series. Extra oil capacity will keep things cooler when wheeling. I know that last year when I was trying to adjust the cdcv knob that damn thing was so hot that I had to wear gloves to make the adjustment. Did you use their sway bar links for kdss bar?Winner winner chicken dinner. I did the Tundra swap up front with a 3.0 with the heimed Icon UCA with delta joint. In the rear I got the regular old 2.5 with the Icon trailing arms and dual rate springs. This is my first Icon set up so I’m not versed on stages. I just ordered this stuff piecemeal. Trying to:
View attachment 1648403
I didn’t get the sway bar links. Are they necessary?You may be the first one to try out the delta joint and 3.0 on 200 series. Extra oil capacity will keep things cooler when wheeling. I know that last year when I was trying to adjust the cdcv knob that damn thing was so hot that I had to wear gloves to make the adjustment. Did you use their sway bar links for kdss bar?
Thanks man. I know I’m gonna have to spend some time to get the suspension dialed in. I’ll probably drive it hard for a while and see what needs to be addressed. I don’t know how much tuning I’ll be able to do on my own without bypasses. I’m guessing I’ll have to mess with valving tho.if you keep this truck long term Icon is a good choice especially if you're into tuning your suspension. The bonus is Icon is on the west coast so you have them as a neighbor and can physically show up and work with those guys on your tune. Once you get on the goodies bolted on you may want to tweak things to adjust for the weight and if so that's a good group to assist you, dial in, their system. you dropped some coin so do yourself a favor and figure it out so you can maximize its potential. I did it and even though it takes time, is not free it was worth the end results and fun to get an education.
congrats
I didn’t get the sway bar links. Are they necessary?
Copy that.On Tundra they recommend going with their version of sway bar links wth 3.0 coilover. Check the clearance between the sway bar link and 3.0 coilover as suspension cycles. If no issues then don't. It also depends on the lift height, higher lift will put stress on the KDSS link bushings at full droop.
depending on how much weight you bolt /add on the valving and spring rates may be adjusted via Icon shop. In stock form it'll be plush, once you exceed the intended weight limit is when you start getting into custom vavling and looking at different rate springs. baby steps first - beat it up and enjoyThanks man. I know I’m gonna have to spend some time to get the suspension dialed in. I’ll probably drive it hard for a while and see what needs to be addressed. I don’t know how much tuning I’ll be able to do on my own without bypasses. I’m guessing I’ll have to mess with valving tho.
Thanks for the PN. Wish it was mentioned in one of the tundra swap threads.did you go with the Icon rear springs? may be a first for those too!
will be interested to see how it sits. how much lift you get out of the springs.
for the sway bar links (KDSS links) you can use the cruiser linkages. it will put a funky angle on the passenger side. it is better to use a tundra passenger side linkage. Toyota part number 488200C010
the sway bar links wind up at odd angles. they work fine, but will probably tear up the bushings faster than stock Tundra or cruiser.
I swapped out the passenger side link with a Tundra link, due to the bend that the Tundra part comes with.