Hyperflex Arms and Superior Links for my 80 Series Review. (1 Viewer)

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So I went ahead and installed the hyperflex arms with 4” springs and an extended panhard
Now I’m trying to figure out where wobble comes from
Maybe I need a panhard drop bracket and a new steering stabilizer/tie rod ends
😳

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Whose springs are you running? Shocks? Lift height?

OME 2410 springs with 60070L shocks
They are rated for 4” of lift and I ordered 5” hyperflex arms to have a bit extra caster
drove fine for the first couple miles and then started giving me death wobble after going over bumps
So I’m pretty sure I set the adjustable panhard from metal tech wrong will try to reduce the length a bit and check it out this coming week

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OME 2410 springs with 60070L shocks
They are rated for 4” of lift and I ordered 5” hyperflex arms to have a bit extra caster
drove fine for the first couple miles and then started giving me death wobble after going over bumps
So I’m pretty sure I set the adjustable panhard from metal tech wrong will try to reduce the length a bit and check it out this coming week

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The wobble might be related to something else, tires, condition of bushings, etc. Considering your radius arms and panhard are new the bushings arent a concern. Have you checked the frame mount for the panhard for cracks?


As far as the proper adjustment for the panhard, check to see if the axle is centered, if it is not it can cause a loosen or wandering feeling.
 
OME 2410 springs with 60070L shocks
They are rated for 4” of lift and I ordered 5” hyperflex arms to have a bit extra caster
drove fine for the first couple miles and then started giving me death wobble after going over bumps
So I’m pretty sure I set the adjustable panhard from metal tech wrong will try to reduce the length a bit and check it out this coming week

View attachment 3038046

View attachment 3038047
Did you loosen all your bushing boolts after the lift and re torque?
If not it will damage the bushings
 
Search threads on death wobbles.
There's a few recent ones.
Then work your way through the same checklists.
Bushes, bearings, TREs, bolt torque, tires, caster, damper.

Given your superior arms are new, you can probably rule them out. But they have changed the dynamics in the front end, probably just enough that other small wear and tear PM items have come into play.
 
I got the 6” superior lift super flex kit with the one different radius arm. Not sure if it was due to hard wheeling before but my caster was out. I had to make small modifications to the brackets on my front diff and fine tune the caster in. I also fitted genuine Toyota bushes. Not sure which one of the two fixed my death wobble but it’s sorted after doing that.
 
Can anyone tell me WHY a Hyperflex radius arm flexes more than stock? Softer pivot bushing material?
I wonder this also, and I just installed them on my truck. :rofl:

They do seem to accomodate the full range of travel I have in the front. I have Ironman 4x4 45683LFE1 shocks (~12" travel), and they are able to bottom out the shock on one side while the opposite wheel (37s) is fully stuffed.

This was from Dusy Ershim in September. I'm running Ironman 4" coils and the driver side was fully unseated.

 
What’s the point of allowing the spring to unseat? Seems that travel without traction or control can only be detrimental.
I agree 100%. But my point being - I don't think I was ever able to have it flex enough for the coil to unseat with the stock radius arms.

The Ironman coils are relatively short and stiff, so I'd like to replace them with a 4" lift coil with greater free length.
 
I agree 100%. But my point being - I don't think I was ever able to have it flex enough for the coil to unseat with the stock radius arms.

The Ironman coils are relatively short and stiff, so I'd like to replace them with a 4" lift coil with greater free length.
Here’s my 2 cents based on my rear axle movement.

At some point the high side will rest on the bump stop and anymore articulation on the low side only tilts the tire into the frame.

Currently my rear axle is setup to just slightly rub the frame at max articulation.

I realize that our stock front is restrictive but would caution you that more might not be better.
 
Here’s my 2 cents based on my rear axle movement.

At some point the high side will rest on the bump stop and anymore articulation on the low side only tilts the tire into the frame.

Currently my rear axle is setup to just slightly rub the frame at max articulation.

I realize that our stock front is restrictive but would caution you that more might not be better.
Yup. I looked at putting a 3-link in the front, but "more might not be better" was definitely a consideration.

So far this setup seems more balanced, with the front performing as well as the rear. But I do need to spend some time on the coils and bumpstops to make sure everything is playing well together.

On a side note, the hyperflex arms pushed my front axle forward just enough to prevent body rub near the sliders. So I can take fender trimming off the TODO list for now. 👍
 
Giving these some consideration…but I also currently am running @eimkeith ’s RAMs which more the frame side mounts 50mm down and 25mm forward. Clearance for 37s is fine as-is (I need to get her back on the forklift after changing wheels for offset and panhard length adjustments) but I’m wondering which variation I’d need on a standard 4” flexi coil lift?

Given the built in caster correction from the RAMs, are we thinking 2" - which would make it ~4" combined correction? 4" for a total of 6" combined correction (since people seem to run "oversized" for these)?
 
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