Hydro Assist install. Abandoned SLEE high steer kit. (1 Viewer)

[AcroSteve]

Anybody running one?

I ran into a major issue. Of course it's the weekend, so gotta wait until Monday for any answers.

I'm hoping it's as simple as them sending the wrong parts. Packing slip says they are for 91-91 Land Cruiser. SOF1100R & SOF1100L

There are no numbers at all stamped on the parts.

 

[AcroSteve]

On the same subject...
Before I discovered the alignment problem, I was looking at how they assembled onto the knuckle. Part of the arm kit is a "weld in bung" that goes into the speed sensor hole.

I'm assuming it's meant to weld to the knuckle from the inside. I found no instructions or video, so that's why I'm assuming.

Well, I was hoping to install these and not remove my knuckles. Obviously, welding would be damn near impossible in that case. So, what to do?

I came up with a retainer for the inside where I could bolt the retainer the the bung, which would hold the bung tightly into the knuckle.

It's just a question of clearance. That bung projects into the knuckle 1/4" on the backside. I could shorten it most of that. And I think I could also remove some material from my retainer, under the bolt head.

 

[ThreeEyedBandit]

Looks like you have a left arm on the right knuckle.

Slee arm should to the front side of the knuckle, which is the shorter of the factory arms.

 

[AcroSteve]

Yea, I was making some assumptions that were wrong.

I went and got my passenger knuckle and also re-read the description on SLEEs website.

Right side is ok with American parts.

As you mentioned, it uses the short arm.

BUT, now I need another double arm off of a right hand drive vehicle!

WTF! Why in the hell isn't that in bold letters in their website? Why in the hell isn't it explained more clearly?

Their description says an arm from a right hand drive axle is needed. Well... an 80 front axle does have a right hand drive offset.

 

[AcroSteve]

So, I guess we've answered my questions about the arms, so that still leaves my welding substitute option for considerations.

 

[ThreeEyedBandit]

Bolt the arm to the bung, then bolt the arm to the knuckle. Weld the inside, then unbolt the arm and weld the outside. That is how I did it.

Also, the extra arm you need is not required but would be silly to not use in double shear at this point. The biggest bummer is you are now within $400 of Hellfire or FROR knuckle prices.

To their credit, it is in bold letters on their page. Even gives the Toyota part number required.

 

[AussieHJCruza]

I think 99% of people reading that would understand that the arm off of a RHD vehicle's axle is required. All land cruisers the older side of a 100 series have what you're calling right hand drive offset.

 

[AcroSteve]

Well, I'm the 1%

I know im just bitching at this point, but I say it should be more clear.

Here's what it shows.

Sure, there's a part number. I didn't check it. Why not also include in the bold that it's from a RHD vehicle? It's a .com website, for goodness sakes. I definitely would have questioned it if it was a .au site.

Reading further...

Again, it says right hand drive axle. Not right hand drive vehicle. My assumption was that most customers on a .com site are americans, and that the kit would utilize the components on the vehicle. The way I read it was that double sheer is the preferred way, but this could be used in single sheer without using the lower arms.

I'll get it worked out, I'm just a little butt hurt lol.

 

[NeverFinis]

I don't know, but I would have taken "right hand drive axle" as a vehicle with right hand drive. IMHO, there isn't another way to interpret that phrase.

They provide an optional Toyota part number for double shear application, which leads to me believe that part isn't on a left-hand drive vehicle as standard.

My 2 cents.

 

[Broski]

Seen clear to me as well.
Any searching on mud about hi steer will bring you to this and to the fact that by the time you precure all part necessary your close to the same cost as Hellfire knuckles witch have a thicker/stronger casting then the OEM knuckles and 4 bolts hold the upper arm on instead of three.
Or you could us the Ruffstuff offroad keyed knuckle Hi steer set up ever better IMO and a little less cost then the Hellfire setup.
I would try to return the Slee stuff if it hasn’t been installed and get one of the other options.

 

[AcroSteve]

Lol

I ain't got time for all that. I gotta get this pig to moab in 4 weeks.

 

[AcroSteve]

I know it's the 80 forum

It's what's underneath that counts.

 

[Broski]

View attachment 3867794

I know it's the 80 forum

It's what's underneath that counts.
View attachment 3867795

That explains a lot

 

[Broski]

Are you going to Cruise Moab ?
If so I look forward to seeing you there

Just curious why you went high steer on that sweet rig ?
Most 80 guy’s only go high steer to do a three link.
IMO the tie rod in the back is in a much less vulnerable spot & very protected.

 

[AcroSteve]

Yes. Cruise moab is the destination

I'm terrible with names, but I'd be more than happy to get acquainted.

Well, we went high steer for a couple of reasons. We currently have a quite a bit of caster and we've got interference between the sway bar and the tie rod. We started with a 3" lift, but have since got a set of stock springs to set it back down to closer to stock. Other than the cool factor, i guess that sway bar interference is the biggest thing.

Not as big of a deal now at stock height, but the high steer allows a little better angle on the drag link.

And I'm going to install a hyd assist cylinder. I think thats pretty much a toss up on front vs rear, but access for the job is definitely easier at the front.

 

[AcroSteve]

Seen clear to me as well.
Any searching on mud about hi steer will bring you to this and to the fact that by the time you precure all part necessary your close to the same cost as Hellfire knuckles witch have a thicker/stronger casting then the OEM knuckles and 4 bolts hold the upper arm on instead of three.
Or you could us the Ruffstuff offroad keyed knuckle Hi steer set up ever better IMO and a little less cost then the Hellfire setup.
I would try to return the Slee stuff if it hasn’t been installed and get one of the other options.

You're not wrong, but a couple if things factored into choosing the SLEE.

1st is cost. $600 for the pair of arms.
2nd, is strength. Sure, you make a good point about those competitors, but with the double sheer setup on these, i have 4 bolts on bottom and 3 on top. So that's 7. Id imagine that boss in the speed sensor hole is stronger than any single bolt. So, I'd almost conside that a toss up. Other than the strength of the oem knuckle. This is more of an expedition vehicle rather than dedicated rock crawler.
3rd is work involved to install. These slee arms can be installed without removing the knuckles. I'll admit i had it figured wrong in the beginning, but after working on the oem arms today, i have a workable solution without any additional $$$.

Now, the way I figure, i can leave the oem tie bar in place, install the slee arms, then fabricate my new tie bar and install it temporarily in order to maintain my toe. Then tackle the bottom arm swap.

Undetermined is if im going to install my retainers on those speed sensor bosses. That will involve pulling the spindles and axkes for access. If I omit the retainers, i don't even have to remove the spindles.

 

[Broski]

So will the tie rod drag link clear the pan hard bar with the Slee setup ?
I know it’s a issue with the competition.

 

[AcroSteve]

Not sure yet.

This picture from their website shows a custom housing, but still using radius arms and the factory coil setup. But I believe that panhard location is higher than factory.

What do you think?

 

[Broski]

First I well say I'm working on a 3 link for my 80 and why I’m so interested.
Not just try to pick apart your project.
I would say that they should clear assuming the Dbl. sheer bolt is going straight up however the axle side mount of the panhard is much higher to keep it at the same angle as the drag link. This is of course to avoid bump steer.

 

[AcroSteve]

after much work and preparation, I've pretty much abandoned the front high steer.

Turns out it's just not possible without several inches of lift. Like zero chance. I never noticed that limitation anywhere.

In consideration is possibly using them on opposite sides to have double sheer on the factory rear tie rod to help with the affects of hydro assist. But they would be pretty close to the shocks at full lock.