How's your 100 Series Body Lift? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Real
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
hoser
SILVER Star
Everything I know about searching can be found here:
http://www.googleguide.com/
But obviously I still have more to learn. My exhaustive searches for cracked T-bars still come up EMPTY!
http://www.googleguide.com/
But obviously I still have more to learn. My exhaustive searches for cracked T-bars still come up EMPTY!
hoser, your google-foo is weak young grasshoppa if you cant find the cracked t-bars.
ill have to look into this google guide. Hoser, if you didnt have a login-name or avatar i could still figure out when you post because you always find the craziest stuff.
ill have to look into this google guide. Hoser, if you didnt have a login-name or avatar i could still figure out when you post because you always find the craziest stuff.
rusty_tlc
Dain Bramaged Member
Interesting find, that looks like an upscale version of something you would find in the deep south under a Camero sitting on a Chevy truck chassis.
I didn't know there was white trash in Japan.
rusty_tlc
Dain Bramaged Member
Maybe there is an expert on this board that could help you out?Everything I know about searching can be found here:
http://www.googleguide.com/
But obviously I still have more to learn. My exhaustive searches for cracked T-bars still come up EMPTY!
Ok...
The first pic shows the 315R75/16 MT/R rub spots on the rear inner fender wall at max compression. The 12mm body lift eliminated this problem.
The second pic shows the additional 12mm clearance between the fender panel and the frame within the rear wheel well.
The third pic shows the 12mm (1/2" nominal) body puck I cut with a hole saw (2 5/8") from UV resistant UHMWPE.
The first pic shows the 315R75/16 MT/R rub spots on the rear inner fender wall at max compression. The 12mm body lift eliminated this problem.
The second pic shows the additional 12mm clearance between the fender panel and the frame within the rear wheel well.
The third pic shows the 12mm (1/2" nominal) body puck I cut with a hole saw (2 5/8") from UV resistant UHMWPE.
Last edited:
Pic one in this frame shows the BL puck just behind the front bumper.
Pic two shows the additional gap between my Slee rear bumper and the body post BL. Not too bad. However I'd like to have Christo send me a bumper that eliminates this gap. I could get the bumper 3/4" higher! Christo?
Pic three shows the front TJM bumper to body fender. I have not readjusted/raised the front bumper...the rubber 'gasket' takes up the 12mm. Also you can see I should have installed this BL sooner! I stuffed, on the Strawberry Canyon run, the front DS tire to the point it tried to pull the fender off! Problem solved with the 12mm BL without limiting up travel of the front suspension.
Pic two shows the additional gap between my Slee rear bumper and the body post BL. Not too bad. However I'd like to have Christo send me a bumper that eliminates this gap. I could get the bumper 3/4" higher! Christo?
Pic three shows the front TJM bumper to body fender. I have not readjusted/raised the front bumper...the rubber 'gasket' takes up the 12mm. Also you can see I should have installed this BL sooner! I stuffed, on the Strawberry Canyon run, the front DS tire to the point it tried to pull the fender off! Problem solved with the 12mm BL without limiting up travel of the front suspension.
Last edited:
This is the parts location diagram for the BL pucks.
#1: Top of the bolts offer easy access from the engine bay.
#2: DS: Need to pull the left foot pad, door sill plate and just pry the carpet & pad up enough to get your hand to this BL bolt location. All interior bolt recesses are covered by a rubber/plastic plug that is easily pryed loose with a small screwdriver to allow the BL bolt to be removed.
#3: This one resides under the rear outer portion of the front seats. You need to remove the rear seat bracket bolts to allow the seat to be tilted up to allow access to these BL bolt locations. These are accessed by removing the second row door sill plates and raising the carpet & pad enough to stretch your hand to these locations.
#4: These are accessed from the second row seat area. You need to remove the plastic "step" that is intended for entry/exit from 3rd row seat area. Then as before gently pry the carpet and pad to locate the black oval BL plug; remove plug to allow BL bolt to be removed.
#5: This one is the most difficult...especially if you have installed rear drawers as they must be removed to allow access to the inner fender panel. Remove the plastic trim that bridges the tail gate and the body then the plastic retainers that hold the inner panels (this is where the factory jack is/was located...and same for the PS side sans jack
). This one requires a mirror and magnet to view and access properly.
#6: This is also a little complicated. You'll need to fab a metal holder for the puck then either tack weld or screw into the cross member to bridge the gap at this puck location as this puck can not be removed (or at least I couldn't figure out how to remove it!).
This is a cheap and necessary mod for those running 35" off-road if you want to maximize suspension up travel without rubbing. Note: I am running 1" front spacers: This is the reason I was rubbing the fender! I have not been able to measure the fan blade to shroud clearance...but with the 12mm lift rubbing has not been a problem post lift.
My OEM bolts were corroded...especially the #5 location. You'll need to special order the appropriate BL bolts. Note: I used the factory #2 in the #3 location; and I used the factory #3 in the #4 location. If anyone figures out a way to remove #6 please let me know
.
Thanks again Darren and Lee!!!
#1: Top of the bolts offer easy access from the engine bay.
#2: DS: Need to pull the left foot pad, door sill plate and just pry the carpet & pad up enough to get your hand to this BL bolt location. All interior bolt recesses are covered by a rubber/plastic plug that is easily pryed loose with a small screwdriver to allow the BL bolt to be removed.
#3: This one resides under the rear outer portion of the front seats. You need to remove the rear seat bracket bolts to allow the seat to be tilted up to allow access to these BL bolt locations. These are accessed by removing the second row door sill plates and raising the carpet & pad enough to stretch your hand to these locations.
#4: These are accessed from the second row seat area. You need to remove the plastic "step" that is intended for entry/exit from 3rd row seat area. Then as before gently pry the carpet and pad to locate the black oval BL plug; remove plug to allow BL bolt to be removed.
#5: This one is the most difficult...especially if you have installed rear drawers as they must be removed to allow access to the inner fender panel. Remove the plastic trim that bridges the tail gate and the body then the plastic retainers that hold the inner panels (this is where the factory jack is/was located...and same for the PS side sans jack
). This one requires a mirror and magnet to view and access properly.#6: This is also a little complicated. You'll need to fab a metal holder for the puck then either tack weld or screw into the cross member to bridge the gap at this puck location as this puck can not be removed (or at least I couldn't figure out how to remove it!).
This is a cheap and necessary mod for those running 35" off-road if you want to maximize suspension up travel without rubbing. Note: I am running 1" front spacers: This is the reason I was rubbing the fender! I have not been able to measure the fan blade to shroud clearance...but with the 12mm lift rubbing has not been a problem post lift.
My OEM bolts were corroded...especially the #5 location. You'll need to special order the appropriate BL bolts. Note: I used the factory #2 in the #3 location; and I used the factory #3 in the #4 location. If anyone figures out a way to remove #6 please let me know
.Thanks again Darren and Lee!!!
Last edited:
Excellent post and info….recommended for FAQ
Did you outsource the BL bolts or did you use Toyota?
Did you outsource the BL bolts or did you use Toyota?
Thanks LCP! I used Toyota OEM bolts. You could get by with long bolts if you can find them. However the OEM bolts have attached special washers at the bolt head that prevents the head from turning as the nut is removed/tightened down. A couple of the locations would be tough to get a wrench on the bolt head if you needed to keep it from turning...
If you use 10mm pucks (assuming you can find the material in this thickness...or I guess you could have them machined from aluminum stock) you probably could re-use all the bolts, assuming they're not corroded like the rears were on mine, as they would be just long enough.
After you make a BL, is there a way to minimize the increased gap between the body and front , rear bumpers and steps? I meant aftermarket (steel) bumpers and steps, not the factory ones of course.
Thanks
Thanks
My TJM T3C front bumper is adjustable; I've adjusted it to minimize the gap...about 90% perfect . No way, within reason, to raise my Slee rear bumper. I'd like to do this because it'd get me a little more departure angle. You'd probably have to start either with a totally custom rear bumper or possibly go with the 4x4 Labs rear bumper kit and modify it accordingly.
Sliders...no real problem here. Again if you want to make yourself a custo set of sliders, as I did, you can tailor them to suit.
. No way, within reason, to raise my Slee rear bumper. I'd like to do this because it'd get me a little more departure angle. You'd probably have to start either with a totally custom rear bumper or possibly go with the 4x4 Labs rear bumper kit and modify it accordingly.Sliders...no real problem here. Again if you want to make yourself a custo set of sliders, as I did, you can tailor them to suit.
spresso: do you know the actual dimensions of the MT/R? so your tires do not hit the slee bumper during articulation?
GY states they are 12.3" section width x 34.6 height. Yes with my current Fox shock setup there was (I am now running the Toyo OC AT 285R75 18; which is about 1/3" taller than the MT/R) no rubbing post BL.
And I am running Slee's adjustable UCA which after adjusting for pinion angle are shorter than OEM. And I am running Slee's adjustable pan-hard which also allowed me to center the rear axle...which also eliminated rubbing.
The rear tire rubbing at max articulation didn't bother me too much. The motivation to install the BL was to get the front fender lip a little farther away from the tire at max stuff (wish I had done this before I crunched my fender
).Thanks for the info spressomon. I'm getting ready to do a BL since I'm rubbing on full compression up front. Couple of questions: First, where did you source your UHMW?
On your pic, did you list the OEM lengths of the bolts or the replacements? What did you use in locations #1, #2 and #6? Does Toyota have longer bolts?
Thanks in advance
On your pic, did you list the OEM lengths of the bolts or the replacements? What did you use in locations #1, #2 and #6? Does Toyota have longer bolts?
Thanks in advance
#6: This is also a little complicated. You'll need to fab a metal holder for the puck then either tack weld or screw into the cross member to bridge the gap at this puck location as this puck can not be removed (or at least I couldn't figure out how to remove it!).
My OEM bolts were corroded...especially the #5 location. You'll need to special order the appropriate BL bolts. Note: I used the factory #2 in the #3 location; and I used the factory #3 in the #4 location. If anyone figures out a way to remove #6 please let me know
Thanks again Darren and Lee!!!
Any plastics company; Tripp Plastics is the one here in Reno that I bought it from. Pretty common stuff.
Hmmm...don't remember. I just special ordered 2-each of each OEM bolt set to have on hand just in case with the thought of returning whichever ones I didn't use/need.
So, I finally got around to doing my BL. This thread was very helpful. Cut my lift pucks from a 1/2" plastic cutting board from Sam's (about $9). I ordered bolts for locations #1 and #2, but I think you could get by with just a set of #1 but you may also want new #6. At mount #1 I reused the original bolts, #2 used the new #1 bolts, #3 uses bolts from #2, #4 uses #3, #5 reuse original (though mine was also corroded, so you may want new ones), #6 installed puck on frame. Install is pretty straightforward per spressomon's posts (but it does take a while to get it done). To clarify, you can access #6 by just pulling the back end of the rear interior panels out a few inches, no need to remove the panel. I started with the DS, so I mistakenly thought I had to get below the A/C unit.
First pic is the DS rear, showing acess to #6 mount bolt. Second is the PS show how it can be accessed without removing the rear panel.
First pic is the DS rear, showing acess to #6 mount bolt. Second is the PS show how it can be accessed without removing the rear panel.
Last edited:
As for #6, instead of a fabbing a retainer, I put a retaining pin in the puck. There is a hole in the frame under the BM, so Icut discs to match the size of the BM , then drove a 16 penny nail with a double head into the pilot hole and cut it off with approx 1/4-3/8" sticking out for the retaining pin. I scored the plastic on the pin side, epoxied it, then slid the puck in under the BM while I had the body lifted. The pin should keep the puck from falling out even if the epoxy fails, since the height of the puck + pin should be greater than the gap + any flexing. It just worked out that the pilot hole was just smaller than the heads on the nail for a good, tight fit and they ended up right at the top and bottom edge of the puck.
Is that a Smokey Topaz LX470 I see?
