There's a big gap at the rear. Front does not have that issue as it no longer attaches to the frame anywhere, only the body.
How's your 100 Series Body Lift? (2 Viewers)
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When I placed TT 1” BL I had a big gap but I had arb bumper. Is the bumper supposed to be connected only to the body. My arb front bumper attached to frame.
The bumper originally attached to the frame and body. I've trimmed so much off that the frame mounts are no longer in play. Still stable though after plating it to support the lights
GTV
SILVER Star
The OEM bumper attaches to the body and the frame. Aftermarket bumpers only attach to the frame.
Just installed The TT 1" kit yesterday. Fairly happy with the results. Bolt length varied quite a bit and had a couple that had just enough thread to allow the locking nut to travel just past the tip of the bolt. Since I had rust free hardware I was able to retain the oem locknuts which I much prefer over the non-locking nuts sent with the kit. No instructions were sent with the kit but fortunately common sense and some tips from the forum allow for a smooth install. Everything tightened down well and threw a torque wrench on just to check where I pulled too, around 45 ftlbs. Only additional step I wish I had taken was to tack the oem locking plates to the new bolts so I can service/check on them without pulling the interior. Didn't dawn on me until I was well into the assembly phase.
* Some input needed from others that have installed these kits. I did have a bit of trouble with the #1 front pucks/body mounts, especially the left.
It torques down but I am getting some deflection in the lower oem mount and now it is sitting a bit askew. I have removed to inspect and it is sitting square until I get the bolts cinched down. It doesn't have a "positive" stop when tightening down either. The right front mount is also a bit cocked but took the torque much better, like the rest of the bolts behind it.
Going back into the shop today to wrap up wheels/tires and alignment so I'll take a pic of the mount if i can't solve.
**EDIT: I discovered that my problem with the #1 mount is that the mount bush/sleeve is bent causing the lower rubber mount to sit askew and prematurely seat against the bottom side of the frame post. Doesn't appear to be causing any issues for now but fortunately it's an easy one to get to so I can swap out the bush later down the road.
* Some input needed from others that have installed these kits. I did have a bit of trouble with the #1 front pucks/body mounts, especially the left.
It torques down but I am getting some deflection in the lower oem mount and now it is sitting a bit askew. I have removed to inspect and it is sitting square until I get the bolts cinched down. It doesn't have a "positive" stop when tightening down either. The right front mount is also a bit cocked but took the torque much better, like the rest of the bolts behind it.
Going back into the shop today to wrap up wheels/tires and alignment so I'll take a pic of the mount if i can't solve.
**EDIT: I discovered that my problem with the #1 mount is that the mount bush/sleeve is bent causing the lower rubber mount to sit askew and prematurely seat against the bottom side of the frame post. Doesn't appear to be causing any issues for now but fortunately it's an easy one to get to so I can swap out the bush later down the road.
Last edited:
GTV
SILVER Star
Did you just trim off the bottom of the rear bumper so it doesn't attach to the frame any longer?
Overall, I am happy that I did the body lift. The lift itself is a quick job. I was in under 2 hours by the time I was lifting the body off the frame.
It's the OCD detail work that takes up a lot of time and turns a 3-4 hour job into a full weekend, but worth the results.
I had a little surface corrosion between the body and mounts so I addressed that before installing the BL pucks. Of course, followed up by cleaning this and that. Fab'ing the upper rad brackets, trimming and fitting the front and rear bumpers to fit properly take a bit of time. followed it all up with a pinch weld beatdown, painting, and sealing the areas for a clean finish.
I capped off my BL with a fresh set of Pizza cutter 35"s on 17x8 30et FN LC100 edition 5 stars, and an alignment.
It's the OCD detail work that takes up a lot of time and turns a 3-4 hour job into a full weekend, but worth the results.
I had a little surface corrosion between the body and mounts so I addressed that before installing the BL pucks. Of course, followed up by cleaning this and that. Fab'ing the upper rad brackets, trimming and fitting the front and rear bumpers to fit properly take a bit of time. followed it all up with a pinch weld beatdown, painting, and sealing the areas for a clean finish.
I capped off my BL with a fresh set of Pizza cutter 35"s on 17x8 30et FN LC100 edition 5 stars, and an alignment.
This looks insanely good. Super clean. Might be running something similar soon.
I went slightly different route, but nearly the same plan.
The available steering extensions work, but have some caveats, modifications required, or actually do not work at all.
Flat out offroad - offers ‘105/100 steering extension’ incorrect, it only work on 100 with telescopic steering, firewall modification, placement at upper end of engine steering link. And, requires re-clocking of lower link to rack spline 45°. Fits 105 at lower link / rack, requires re-clocking 45°. Does not fit 100 with non telescopic steering.
Nice work! Hope this works out well for you
