How/where to a install 2nd electrical water temp sending unit fj60

[John McVicker]

Yeah Output, I'm not too big on the one in Spike's picture, sticks way up there, and whatever air gets in there isn't going anywhere. So far what I really like is what lovetoski has done...another sender up by the stock one.

My 60 is fully smogged and I can't yet get a good view of that area of the head. Once I get back at this & remove the air cleaner etc, I will see if a smogged engine has a empty port I can use.

If not, likely will just use the aux gauge instead of the stock one. However, I do agree with lovetoski about the accuracy of the stock gauge...at least mine. In post one, when I temporarily hooked up the Aux gauge (using the stock sender), I ran the engine up to temp...the stock gauge read right where it always does at idle, the aux gauge read right at 198* as did my IR gun pointed at the bottom threads of the sender on the head.

Thanks, John

 

[rat]

I have done this mod. I drilled a hole through the block drain plug , tapped it to take the aftermarket temp gauge sensor, wired through the firewall to a gauge under the dash. Take care that your sensor is thin/narrow enough to go into the drain plug, and leave a mm or two for threads, also to drill exactly in the center of the drain plug, there's not much meat on the plug. Also, finding a place for the gauge under the dash that is visible but also clear of the driver's knees and the gear stick shifter/4x4 shift stick was a bit of a challenge. I fabbed a bracket for mine - don't have enough skill to be cutting holes in the dash..

 

[John McVicker]

Rat, good info, thanks.

John

 

[John McVicker]

Hey John, This is Jerry from Big Pine. What about putting a T in place of the stock sender and then putting a sender on each leg of the T. Just a thought.

Thanks Jerry, I think this would be simple enough to do...but I also think that 'T' might trap air...what do you think ?

Thanks John

 

[2mountainfish]

Not sure. Since my engine is out of the truck right now, I kind of like the idea of using the block drain hole. What do you think about that? It would be in the coolant flow.

 

[2mountainfish]

John:
Been talking with the other mechanics at work and we agree that putting it in the block drain would work fine. Install a threaded bushing into the block fitting and screw in a sending unit. A threaded bushing has threads on the inside and outside. I think it will be an easy mod with the exception of draining the coolant.

 

[Kaasdief]

I am still pondering the question, is there not more merit in an exhaust temperature alarm than an additional heat gauge? I mean, in the event of a sudden coolant loss the driver might miss the gauge or gauges, but a manifold alarm will save the motor and the day?

 

[Petoors]

Some old military vehicles had a automatic ignition cut-out system based on relays and stuff that kills (switch of the ignition) in case of the an oil pressure drop.
If all this adding an extra sensor is for engine protection, as is the case, get an auto electrician to rig a similar ignition cut-out on the water or manifold or whatever temperature. Then you have less gauges to scan and can look at the road of the nice scenery.

 

[Elbert]

top water hose, use t as suggested off current stock location, remove stock and go purely aftermarket mechanical, tap into thermostat housing.

 

[Output Shaft]

Orrrrrr

Replace the radiator, thermostat, water pump, all the hoses and clamps with new. Done.

No gauge needed. It won't overheat.

 

[doug720]

I don't have a 2f any longer, but looked up a picture of the thermostat housing. I have another option that may work and be easy.

On lower housing, there are 2 ports where the vacuum valves mount. Remove both of them, add a T for the 2 vacuum valves. Then use the other port for the new temp probe. All these ports angle downward, per the picture, so if you angle the T downward, no air pocket.

The T should allow the vacuum switches to operate normally, so the smog will work, and you get the temp probe in the coolant flow at the top of the engine with chance of an air bubble.

One more idea...

 

[Output Shaft]

Doing that will mess up either the Choke Opener system or EGR control.

Each one of those requires a separate BVSV. They can't be teed together.
The vacuum source for the EGR is the advancer port in the carb. The vac source for the CO is raw manifold vacuum.

 

[doug720]

To clarify, I was talking about installing a pipe T so both sensors could be installed in the coolant, not connecting the 2 sensor together electrically or vacuum wise.

Just trying to get a temp probe in the thermostat housing.

 

[John McVicker]

Ok, to button this up at least for the time being: returned from out of town late last night. Went out early today (w/o yet seeing all these new posts/suggestions) and installed my aux VDO temp gauge using the stock sending unit. VDO seems to be working great using stock sender...however, obviously the stock gauge no longer is hooked up. But if someone doesn't trust their stock gauge or it's not working...what I did is an easy fix.

In the future, I still will try to get both gauges working. I like doug's idea and I also like 2mountainfish's idea...it might be the easiest. Jerry, next time we get together (or drop by) I'd like to see/discuss your threaded bushing idea.

Good thoughts from all. I will update again if I do get the stock gauge working with the VDO.

John

 

[doug720]

Wonder if you could run both gauges at the same time from one sending unit? Maybe a shunt or something like it to keep the signal only going to each gauge? Or maybe nothing is needed if the gauges only read a value???

I may be passing through LP for a little fish'n soon with my 60. Maybe I can say hello if you are around.

 

[John McVicker]

Doug, pm sent.

Come on up, good to have you. We need another 60 in Big Pine.

Thanks, John

 

[HeadacheManNYC]

Hauling this thread out of the catacombs - to clarify, can an electrical gauge be hooked up to the stock sender if a functioning dash cluster temp gauge isn't a priority?

 

[mattressking]

Hauling this thread out of the catacombs - to clarify, can an electrical gauge be hooked up to the stock sender if a functioning dash cluster temp gauge isn't a priority?

Yes, just thread your new sender into the stock spot and run the wiring to the new gauge. I forget the factory thread size, but you can get an adapter if it isn't the same thread pitch.

 

[John McVicker]

You can also use the stock sender...at least you can with the VDO gage that I used.

Unplug the OEM connection at the stock sender and then plug in the aftermarket gage to the stock sender.

Didn't try it, but my understanding is you can not wire both aftermarket and OEM Gage's in to the stock sender at the same time.

 

[HeadacheManNYC]

Good info - do you recall which VDO model you used?

You can also use the stock sender...at least you can with the VDO gage that I used.

Unplug the OEM connection at the stock sender and then plug in the aftermarket gage to the stock sender.

Didn't try it, but my understanding is you can not wire both aftermarket and OEM Gage's in to the stock sender at the same time.