NLXTACY
Wits' End
***Sorry this was installed on an 80 but I will be doing the same on my 60***
Hi there folks. Its time for another totally useless, but I thought it was cool, HOW TO that will never find its way into the FAQs
The idea started actually last year while in Mammoth during a blizzard. On the way out of the town, while trying to get to the 395, the road had been closed by the CHP. Well not closed so much as you had to have a CHP escort. We wound up waiting our turn for close to 2 hours. During this time we, just like everyone else, would turn off the truck until it was time to move. During this time we happened upon a family that was in a 100 series. It seems their dual TVs and dual DVD players and the 0º weather took its toll on the batteries because they were stuck. We saw the hood up and car after car would just drive right on past. Finally we had driven up to them to see how we could help. Jumper cables to the rescue.
Wooops!
No jumper cables. Turns out the last person we helped...helped themselves to the cables and we didn't notice. Luckily ANOTHER FJ80 came by with cables and we got the 100 started. Although it was pure comedy watching these guys try to decide where to ground and which cable goes where. All ended well. This got us thinking. Why not have battery cables that would only work for our truck, would be easily accessible, would be more foolproof to hook up AND that we could turn on and use without even opening up the hood.
Hence.........
"THE WORLD'S MOST EXPENSIVE BATTERY CABLES"
(or, "Joey has too much time on his hands" OR
"another 80 owner with more money than brains")
When I started this I had decided that I wanted to use cable quick disconnects. The same type used for powering up winches. I wanted them hooked up to the auxiliary battery because if I am going to fry a battery, I'd rather it be that one. I also wanted the ability to turn it on via a solenoid and use a dash mounted switch. All without lifting the hood.
I contacted Wrangler Power Products and was working directly with Stan Hackathorn. I would be sourcing almost all of the necessary products from him/them for this project. No affiliation although if you are reading this Stan...freebies are always welcome.
Items needed:
• Aux. battery. of course you can use the main but I've seen stupid things cause batteries to go boom.
• Wrangler's 200Amp solenoid 29-983 ($72.00)
• A few feet both both red and black battery cable. I used 1/0 but you can use 4 AWG just fine. 010-000013 ($4.37 ft. for black), 010-000014 ($4.45 ft. for red)
• (2) 1/0 Pos. lugs 014-000032 ($3.92 or $1.96 ea.)
• (2) 1/0 Neg. lugs 014-000031 ($2.86 or $1.43 ea.)
• (4) quick disconnect pins 014-009042 ($13.96 or $3.49 ea.)
• (2) quick disconnect Lexan 903 housings 012-009032 ($3.91 ea.)
• (1) quick disconnect dust cover 372-000905 ($4.60 ea.)
• (1) mechanical lock for 903 housings (optional)
• (2) neg terminal boots 372-003070 ($2.54 or $1.27 ea.)
• 16ft (or more if required) of 2AWG TANDEM cable 010-202020 ($86.24 or $5.39 ft.)
• (2) battery hand clamps 372-015400 ($8.99 red), 372-015401 ($8.99 black)
• 20 ft of black fish net stocking sheathing 015-000294 ($17.60)
• several adhesive shrink tubes 015-001751 ($2.65 ft)
• Hammer indent punch ($15.00)
• 15 ft of 14AWG wire
• wire connectors
• .25" split loom
• room for another fuse
The first step is deciding where to put the solenoid. I went with Wrangler's 200Amp continuous duty solenoid but its mounting orientation, I thought, was kinda limiting. I decided that the best place to affix this would be between the two horns on that metal bracket that they are connected to. Now the spacing between the solenoid is just slightly too narrow so you will have to widen it slightly. Again, this is only if you are mounting it here. I wanted it out of the way and more or less hidden so this made sense for me.
Hi there folks. Its time for another totally useless, but I thought it was cool, HOW TO that will never find its way into the FAQs
The idea started actually last year while in Mammoth during a blizzard. On the way out of the town, while trying to get to the 395, the road had been closed by the CHP. Well not closed so much as you had to have a CHP escort. We wound up waiting our turn for close to 2 hours. During this time we, just like everyone else, would turn off the truck until it was time to move. During this time we happened upon a family that was in a 100 series. It seems their dual TVs and dual DVD players and the 0º weather took its toll on the batteries because they were stuck. We saw the hood up and car after car would just drive right on past. Finally we had driven up to them to see how we could help. Jumper cables to the rescue.
Wooops!
No jumper cables. Turns out the last person we helped...helped themselves to the cables and we didn't notice. Luckily ANOTHER FJ80 came by with cables and we got the 100 started. Although it was pure comedy watching these guys try to decide where to ground and which cable goes where. All ended well. This got us thinking. Why not have battery cables that would only work for our truck, would be easily accessible, would be more foolproof to hook up AND that we could turn on and use without even opening up the hood.
Hence.........
"THE WORLD'S MOST EXPENSIVE BATTERY CABLES"
(or, "Joey has too much time on his hands" OR
"another 80 owner with more money than brains")
When I started this I had decided that I wanted to use cable quick disconnects. The same type used for powering up winches. I wanted them hooked up to the auxiliary battery because if I am going to fry a battery, I'd rather it be that one. I also wanted the ability to turn it on via a solenoid and use a dash mounted switch. All without lifting the hood.
I contacted Wrangler Power Products and was working directly with Stan Hackathorn. I would be sourcing almost all of the necessary products from him/them for this project. No affiliation although if you are reading this Stan...freebies are always welcome.
Items needed:
• Aux. battery. of course you can use the main but I've seen stupid things cause batteries to go boom.
• Wrangler's 200Amp solenoid 29-983 ($72.00)
• A few feet both both red and black battery cable. I used 1/0 but you can use 4 AWG just fine. 010-000013 ($4.37 ft. for black), 010-000014 ($4.45 ft. for red)
• (2) 1/0 Pos. lugs 014-000032 ($3.92 or $1.96 ea.)
• (2) 1/0 Neg. lugs 014-000031 ($2.86 or $1.43 ea.)
• (4) quick disconnect pins 014-009042 ($13.96 or $3.49 ea.)
• (2) quick disconnect Lexan 903 housings 012-009032 ($3.91 ea.)
• (1) quick disconnect dust cover 372-000905 ($4.60 ea.)
• (1) mechanical lock for 903 housings (optional)
• (2) neg terminal boots 372-003070 ($2.54 or $1.27 ea.)
• 16ft (or more if required) of 2AWG TANDEM cable 010-202020 ($86.24 or $5.39 ft.)
• (2) battery hand clamps 372-015400 ($8.99 red), 372-015401 ($8.99 black)
• 20 ft of black fish net stocking sheathing 015-000294 ($17.60)
• several adhesive shrink tubes 015-001751 ($2.65 ft)
• Hammer indent punch ($15.00)
• 15 ft of 14AWG wire
• wire connectors
• .25" split loom
• room for another fuse
The first step is deciding where to put the solenoid. I went with Wrangler's 200Amp continuous duty solenoid but its mounting orientation, I thought, was kinda limiting. I decided that the best place to affix this would be between the two horns on that metal bracket that they are connected to. Now the spacing between the solenoid is just slightly too narrow so you will have to widen it slightly. Again, this is only if you are mounting it here. I wanted it out of the way and more or less hidden so this made sense for me.
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