How to tell if timing belt has been done (1 Viewer)

[abuck99]

Toyota for the hoses and new clamps: McGeorge Toyota

Aisin fan pulley bracket is good

FIPG- Toyota 103B for pre 04 and after 04 you need the 1282B($$$). With either type wait 12-24hrs before adding coolant and firing it up.

And follow FSM

 

[OEMGUY0720]

Toyota for the hoses and new clamps: McGeorge Toyota

Aisin fan pulley bracket is good

FIPG- Toyota 103B for pre 04 and after 04 you need the 1282B($$$). With either type wait 12-24hrs before adding coolant and firing it up.

And follow FSM

Got it. Thank you very much. Will check Toyota Vegas later and compare it with Toyota McGeorge for the upper and lower hoses and hose clamps as well as that FIPG.

This is an 06 so I guess I will have to use 1282B.

This is what I found in eBay:

Is one tube enough to cover the work needed?

 

[abuck99]

Yeah I'd go for that; its about $25 cheaper than the dealer price. One tube will last you a lifetime ( until it dries out or you dry out which ever occurs first ). What sucks is that only one small section requires the FIPG: an area the size of a post-it-note. Your model year calls for Toyota SLL2 coolant as well. If you go with that, negotiate the price with your local dealer should be about $15 a gallon.

 

[jerryb]

I hate myself for not ordering the funny tee shaped water hose tree thing going down to the oil pump. The assembly that travels down from the top right of bucks picture above.

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[medtro]

This is an 06 so I guess I will have to use 1282B.

May be you should decide if you want to replace the cam seals or not before ordering them. Camshafts have to come out for VVTi engine.

 

[ClassyJalopy]

Do not waste your time and money with the schley pulley holding tool. Please! I bought that tool too and it is not fun to use!
I will sell it to you for $25 + free shipping if you insist.

A much much easier solution is to use a chain wrench instead. Use a piece of old v belt to protect the pulley and then use chain wrench to hold it in place. Here's how mine looked like

Pulley pullers and torque wrench can be rented from you local parts store.

 

[abuck99]

May be you should decide if you want to replace the cam seals or not before ordering them. Camshafts have to come out for VVTi engine.

Good point- VVT cam seal replacement is not easy compared to non-vvt. As a preventive, its maybe more work than you want to take on. The crank seal is easy enough though.

Do not waste your time and money with the schley pulley holding tool. Please! I bought that tool too and it is not fun to use!
I will sell it to you for $25 + free shipping if you insist.

A much much easier solution is to use a chain wrench instead. Use a piece of old v belt to protect the pulley and then use chain wrench to hold it in place. Here's how mine looked like
View attachment 1984942

Pulley pullers and torque wrench can be rented from you local parts store.

Pretty easy work using the Shiley pulley holder (in my one time use) not sure what could be difficult about using it. If I didnt already have one, I would buy yours @$25. I

 

[TRLBOSS]

Pretty easy work using the Shiley pulley holder (in my one time use) not sure what could be difficult about using it. If I didnt already have one, I would buy yours @$25. I

x2

 

[ClassyJalopy]

Pretty easy work using the Shiley pulley holder (in my one time use) not sure what could be difficult about using it. If I didn't already have one, I would buy yours @$25.

To begin with the two threaded holes in my pulley were full of surface rust and the threads were pretty much useless. I had to re-tap the threads. Then, you have to hold that bugger with one hand while you use all of your might to loosen/tighten the actual bolt. You might even have to resort to using two breaker bars (one for the tool and one for loosening the pulley bolt)
And if you end of breaking a tool bolt in one of the pulley holes, you are unable to use the tool again (ask me how I know )

The chain tool method (learnt from @2001LC ) frees up your hands, saves you from dealing with the pulley holes, not to mention a chain wrench is infinitely useful for other stuff whereas your Schley tool is pretty much a paper weight once you are done with a TB job.

 

[97 AZ LC]

The chain tool method (learnt from @2001LC ) frees up your hands,

Tell us more about the chain method freeing up your hands. I would have thought it was the other way around, that it would take up at least one of your hands.

 

[ClassyJalopy]

Tell us more about the chain method freeing up your hands. I would have thought it was the other way around, that it would take up at least one of your hands.

Welp -
step 1: you wrap a piece of old v-belt (cut to the size of pulley circumference roughly) and hold it in place with a small strip of electric tape.
Step 2: wrap the chain over the belt protected pulley and hook it up on the handle part of the tool and then push the tool to get some tension on the tool.
Step 3: Use your jack to hold the tool in place -
Voila! This pulley won't move any where while you use all of your might on the 15 foot cheater bar to break loose the pulley bolt!!

Installation is reverse. The oil pressure sending unit is in the way - so I unscrewed it (very easy) and then put some fpg on the threads when I was putting it back on.

Here's what it looked like when torquing the pulley bolt. The RED arrow points to the hole where oil sending unit was plugged in. The GREEN arrow shows the direction of force on the chain wrench.

 

[97 AZ LC]

Ah, your jack to hold the tool. Very good, thanks.

 

[abuck99]

To begin with the two threaded holes in my pulley were full of surface rust and the threads were pretty much useless. I had to re-tap the threads. Then, you have to hold that bugger with one hand while you use all of your might to loosen/tighten the actual bolt. You might even have to resort to using two breaker bars (one for the tool and one for loosening the pulley bolt)
And if you end of breaking a tool bolt in one of the pulley holes, you are unable to use the tool again (ask me how I know )

The chain tool method (learnt from @2001LC ) frees up your hands, saves you from dealing with the pulley holes, not to mention a chain wrench is infinitely useful for other stuff whereas your Schley tool is pretty much a paper weight once you are done with a TB job.

Yeah whatever method you can use to undo it with out damaging the pulley/hub.

For sure anticipate the threaded holes in the crank pulley should be chased with a tap ahead of time to remove dirt & corrosion. Using 2 x 20~24"x 1/2" breaker bars easily gets the nut undone- we are talking 181ft lbs torque to undo. I was expecting it to be a mofo but it wasn't. Surprised you broke a bolt- was it hardened?

 

[ClassyJalopy]

Yeah whatever method you can use to undo it with out damaging the pulley/hub.

For sure anticipate the threaded holes in the crank pulley should be chased with a tap ahead of time to remove dirt & corrosion. Using 2 x 20~24"x 1/2" breaker bars easily gets the nut undone- we are talking 181ft lbs torque to undo. I was expecting it to be a mofo but it wasn't. Surprised you broke a bolt- was it hardened?

It was the bolt that came with the tool. I have since replaced them with JIS class 8.8 bolts. But I am so done with that tool!

 

[medtro]

To begin with the two threaded holes in my pulley were full of surface rust and the threads were pretty much useless. I had to re-tap the threads. Then, you have to hold that bugger with one hand while you use all of your might to loosen/tighten the actual bolt. You might even have to resort to using two breaker bars (one for the tool and one for loosening the pulley bolt)

You can rest the breaker bar on the frame, no need to hold it with any hand.

And if you end of breaking a tool bolt in one of the pulley holes, you are unable to use the tool again (ask me how I know )

The bolts are too long for my crank pulley. I stacked washers to create spacers so that I can tight the tool to the pulley. You will break the tool bolts if the tool is not well tightened to the pulley. You want all your forces to hold the crank, not to break the bolts.

 

[OEMGUY0720]

thanks for reply guys. all the parts that needs to be replaced do you happen to have their part numbers so I could cross check and make sure I order the correct ones? thanks again for all the help.