How to shorten '98 Vortec/4L60e/LC-TCase combo

[muncher]

I am new to the formum here and have tool'd around to see if anyone has been able to get a shorter combination of 4L60e and FJ40 TCase. I am currently using the Advance Adapter kit to connect the 4L60e to the FJ40 TCase, which puts the TCase beyond the transmission hump. (Something like 11"s of adapters). I put the FJ40 on the road at the end of 2003 and it has worked well for me, but...I am ready to modify again.

I have a series of things I want to do, and it all hinges on shortening the trans and transfer case. (Lower center of gravity, longer rear drive shaft, 4-link front and rear...the list goes on). I met with Marlin a few months ago, and he recommended an adapter that Downey makes (made?), that would shorten everything up. Anyone seen, heard, used this combo? I have a 2" body lift that comfortably fits all trans package in the frame area. I want to be able to remove the 2" lift and set the package in the transmission hump. (2"s would give me just enough to be able to park in the garage at work). I can not extend the hump, because I am using the 28gal Aussie tank. I need to crawl underneath and find out how much I need to shorten to make it into the hump.

I may even consider going to a different Tcase. (I have a 205 on the side of the house, but does not make it much shorter). If all else fails, I will just keep it the way it is, and find an Orion...? I am open to ideas or a thread that has already been started on this subject.

I have pictures of the vehicle, before, during and after the build, at www.muncher.com to see how tall it is. (Missing some pictures due to a camera theft). It has a roof rack in the picture, which I am going to remove during daily driving use. With the roof rack I am at 7'11" and without, I think I am at 7' 1/2". My work garage clearance is 7'. It would fit when I had 33's with the 2" body lift. With the 35's, no go.

Thanks to anyone for their time.

 

[dgangle]

Nice truck. So you built this yourself and now you want to lower it so it will fit under a roof at work? Why didn't you plan for this in your build, new job?

Unless you gotta money tree or just like modifying things and have lots of time, I say leave it alone. To me the benefit of parking it under cover for 8hr/day would not exceed the cost and effort of what it would take to lower a couple inches. Nothing you do will be easy, quick or inexpensive but the possibilities are endless. Prolly the least expensive alternative would be to replace the auto tranny with a 4 speed and take the 2" body lift out. Downey is non-existant so you will have to find used stuff but you could try to email Jim and see if he took one home in his lunchbox. His email is in one of the RIP threads floating around.

Or buy something else to drive to work.

 

[muncher]

I orginally was going to put a 383 with 4 speed in it, which the 4 speed is also on the side of the house. When I was getting it linex'd (It was just a body and frame at this point), i came across a complete 1998 c1500 front clip with harness, trans, air conditioning, so I went the automatic route. For this rig, I dont think I will ever make it stick. Going back would require removal of all electronics, because the motor is programmed with the trans. I used the complete harness from the GM truck, including dash/column, windshield wiper controls, cruise, air....everything (Took out wires that were not needed). I also used the GM underdash/firewall column mounts for the steering, brake pedal and booster. It would be better to find a new body and frame and start over, than go to stick. Too much loss, and labor, plus auto is better . I want to replace the TCase anyway, so it would be a perfect oppertunity to fix the length, change 2 drive lines, and replace a few body bolts.

No job change. The plan has always been to do this, (except for the auto thing) but at the time of the build, there was nothing available to shorten the package. I am revisiting it, to see if the technology has caught up yet, or see if I can make something. No money burning a hole in my wallet. If it is not duable yet, then it will go back on the back burner. I only drive it on the weekends, and have put 6,000 miles on it sence 2005. It was an acceptable loss to not drive it to work. Looking back at all the time and effort, I would like to be able to drive it more and it has become a family vehicle. Plus it opens the door for me to do other things to the suspension. I just sold the Dana 60's that I was going to put under it, so I have dialed it back a little...

 

[jerz4wd]

I have a 700r4 with the 1" Downey adapter behind a 305 TPI and 3 speed tcase. I like it for the length but down side is have to trim oil pan for front output to miss pan. Also have to run a different output yoke and u-joint.

I just found a toybox splitcase combo so I will be changing sometime this winter (hopefully). Will let you know if I sell the adapter..

Jerry

 

[muncher]

I currently have the AA flange and u-joint assembly. Is it the same? I also have the 1.5" adapter that converts the 4l60e to a 700r4 and provides a place for the reluctor ring and sensor. According to Marlin, this is where the 1" adapter is used, making it a total 2.5" of adapters, instead of 9"s or so. What is the output shaft? Seems to me that it would be a separate shaft with a cupler to the 4l60e output shaft, but not sure. Have not seen either.

 

[muncher]

Also, I have a few messages from users that may have adapters for sale, so yes, if I can get a complete setup of parts, I am in the market to purchase. I am still working on finding out what all the components are comprised of.

If anyone has the installation instruction sheet for it, that would help. Or a picture of the parts...