How to Shift 3 speed on the Column (1 Viewer)

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So how many of you start off in 2nd gear?

I use to do it all the time with my past rig, but I wanted to know how many of you guys do this...and if there were any problems?

As far as the lock outs go...anyone else running drive flanges? Your thoughts?
 
So how many of you start off in 2nd gear?

I use to do it all the time with my past rig, but I wanted to know how many of you guys do this...and if there were any problems?

As far as the lock outs go...anyone else running drive flanges? Your thoughts?
nd start al

2nd start: all the time in the 4spd, never when I drove a three on the tree.

Drive flanges: why add wear to the birfields etc. You can get a set of asin hubs from a wrecking yard for less than $100
 
Taking off my hubs and installing flanges.

This is planned to be a stock restoration, (not just a "frame off") so it will become a Sunday driver. That being said, I am sure the flanges will be fine.

Why not from 2nd in your 3speed?
 
Ran driving flanges 15 years ago it was ok but I very rarely drove it on pavement. It was stuck in 4 low.

Maybe I'm a bad example

chris
 
Why not from 2nd in your 3speed?

Because second gear is too high to start with. I typically don't shift from 1st until I hit about 20 mph. Think of second in a 3 speed as you would third in a 4 speed.

Ran driving flanges 15 years ago it was ok but I very rarely drove it on pavement. It was stuck in 4 low.

Maybe I'm a bad example

chris

I just changed out the drive flanges on mine last fall when I did my disc brake coversion. They did fine for 36 years. They had plenty of pavement time.

:cheers:
 
Taking off my hubs and installing flanges.

This is planned to be a stock restoration, (not just a "frame off") so it will become a Sunday driver. That being said, I am sure the flanges will be fine.

Why not from 2nd in your 3speed?

Flanges were stock but hubs were also dealer-installed at the time. Locking out the hubs does save gas and a bit of wear and tear on the birfs.

You can tell by simply trying that starting in second causes noticeable lugging. If I have a bit of speed I'll start in second, but never from a dead or near-dead stop.
 
your linkage could be out of adjustment.. There are like 2 levers.. one on top of the top plate and one to the side of the plate.. i think the one on top switches between the left and right of the shift pattern H (R and 1) and (2 and 3). and the one on the side switches the top and bottom of the H. so if the lever on the top cannot fully move into the second position to allow 2nd and 3rd gear to work then you will have grinding problems. this probably doesn't make any sense. but it could definitely be a problem
 
I'm not sure I could start out in 2nd with my F135/FJ45. I know it needs a rebuild. Perhaps with the FJ40/F155 on it's fresh rebuild. Both are 3 on the tree setups. I'll give it a try tomorrow.

I agree with toyotology that going around with a 12 mm wrench and tightening all of the linkage is a good idea.
 
Holy word I can't say.

That may be my problem :)

I figured it was simply bring the lever down and up. I wondered why there was so little distance between the N and 1st.

I am going through my head right now trying to figure out if what you say really exists and I vaguely remember there being some paths (voids) there. I will have to play around with it.

Any other hints out there for a column virgin?

That is pretty funny. Thanks for the explanation. I could not find it on my search. I guess it was to simple a question.

Here's a hint that helps: When shifting to reverse or first, put your hand (palm up) under the shift knob. When shifting to second or third, put your hand (palm down) on top of the shift knob. It kind of makes it a no-brainer that steers the linkage in the right direction. Also, don't try to shift too quickly. If you have a lot of slop in the linkage, it can go in the wrong direction if you try to force it too hard.
When you're sitting in neutral, always shift to second or third before shifting into reverse or second (I always use second). It uses the second gear synchros to match the speed of things before you go into a non-synchro gear.
I've been driving my 3-on-the-tree for over 31 years. It's a piece of cake.
 
Well,

I got it on the first try. It was entirely to easy. Mastered the double clutch in about 3 attempts as well. I have never done that before but it sure worked. I only did it while down shifting.

I will explain why I could not find those gears before. I shifted like this.

All the way up. In the middle and down. That was kinda it :p

But she cruises up to 40 MPH nice and has some great backfiring on the decel :popcorn:

Thank you for the help. It probably would have taken me hours to figure out it is just like a H pattern on the floor but on the tree.

Much future happy wheeling ahead now.

As far as starting out in second I tried it a couple of times. Not so much. You can do it if you are still rolling (California stop as we call it in Oregon) but from a dead start it just isn't pretty.

Roads here I come. (once I get brake lights:steer:)
 
Well, no trouble starting out in 2nd on the flat or even a slight uphill slope with the F155/3 speed. Venerable tractor motor!
 
That's what I figured...the more powerful engines should be OK...I had a V8 in my last rig.
 
Well, no trouble starting out in 2nd on the flat or even a slight uphill slope with the F155/3 speed. Venerable tractor motor!

I've even managed to start out in 3rd :whoops: more than once, excitement on the trail took over attention to detail :doh:

did mirror gulch on Metal Masher in 3rd one year :eek: VVRRRROOOOM :steer:
 

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