How to run 38's

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If you cut the tread in the 1/2" Michelin say's you can, plus sipe the hell out of them, plus groove and cut the hell out of the tread blocks....then you'd have a tire about as good on rocks as an uncut Bogger.
 
If you cut the tread in the 1/2" Michelin say's you can, plus sipe the hell out of them, plus groove and cut the hell out of the tread blocks....then you'd have a tire about as good on rocks as an uncut Bogger.
Sooo no air at all and they still won't flex:hhmm::hhmm:! I would still like to know how much I can get a set for and where??? Anyone know???
 
I have been looking for some since mid summer .. Even started a thread in wanted. they come up on Ebay all the time, but the price ends up too much, at around $700 plus shipping. I don't wanna pay over $500, so I'm still looking.

There are differences too, check out Army Military Tires

-Josh
 
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they flex
 
I found my tires on Ebay. They were $125.00 plus shipping from CA to MA. They were brand new. I'm not sure who the vender was. I am building another 80 and will try to keep this one under control. They ride well, but I am running Dyna beads for balance. Which I will never run anything but.

The body lift took about two days working alone. The transfer shifting lever and fan shroud was the hardest part. I can fully stuff the Michelins with not rub, but these tires are 11.00 and pretty narrow.
 
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they flex

Thanks for posting this pic....glad to see they flex!

So is that with NO air in the tires or what is the psi??

Also it looks like you are running a wheel spacer, if yes... what size (1.5" or 1.25" ect) and do they still stuff with the spacers???

The reason I'm asking is I have a set of 1.5" spacers I would like to use if the tires still stuff.:hillbilly:
 
Yep. That guy has been posting set after set since Feb. He raised the bid length by three days a month or so ago. Probably because he wants more money for them now, after he bought 50,000 pounds worth of tires for $150.
 
They don't need to be softer, they need traction. If you take a knife to them, they would be fine....but it would take alot of cutting to get those bad boys to grip like a run-of-the-mill MT.

They are heavy, they are big, and they don't do well in anything but sand or mud. They are a pain in the ass to mount, they don't balance too well if they aren't round to begin with (most don't need balancing though), and if you lose a bead off the beaten path, have fun trying to get it back on.

I only used them to test that size tire with my setup, had full intentions of the 38.5x11.00 boggers from the get-go. If you're going to be traveling expedition style, over some damn harsh stuff....then these MIGHT be a worthwhile tire. If it's basically a show truck, it MIGHT be worth while (a bunch of weight to strain those stock axles). If you never do anything but drive on the beach or go through a mud puddle, you MIGHT not hate them.

Basically they are bullet proof tires that get shown up by worn out/slick Super Swampers basically everywhere.
 
They don't need to be softer, they need traction. If you take a knife to them, they would be fine....but it would take alot of cutting to get those bad boys to grip like a run-of-the-mill MT.

They are heavy, they are big, and they don't do well in anything but sand or mud. They are a pain in the ass to mount, they don't balance too well if they aren't round to begin with (most don't need balancing though), and if you lose a bead off the beaten path, have fun trying to get it back on.

I only used them to test that size tire with my setup, had full intentions of the 38.5x11.00 boggers from the get-go. If you're going to be traveling expedition style, over some damn harsh stuff....then these MIGHT be a worthwhile tire. If it's basically a show truck, it MIGHT be worth while (a bunch of weight to strain those stock axles). If you never do anything but drive on the beach or go through a mud puddle, you MIGHT not hate them.

Basically they are bullet proof tires that get shown up by worn out/slick Super Swampers basically everywhere.
Got it!!!!

Thanks for the details!!!
 
had full intentions of the 38.5x11.00 boggers from the get-go.

So how do you like the tall skinny boggers?

I can get the 38.5x11 boggers for the same price as 38x13 TSL Bias....I'm just wondering which would be best:hhmm:?
 
0psi took out the valve core to back in the cruiser into garage
6" Slee

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Did you say stuff

I only use them for road abuse and mud, im tryin to get a set of Maxxis Creepy Crawler for the rest
 
Like I said, don't need air.

Bogger VS TSL? Boggers aren't much for side-hill traction, but if you need a tire that will just keep digging trying to get you through, it will do it. The TSL will do everything but mud, sharp rock, and loose dirt just a little better than the Bogger. Bogger shines in those places well. Sand/on-road is a toss-up; HP, water, and throttle application can make one look way better than the other and vise-versa.

The tall-skinny is the only Bogger good for other than mud, and it actually does everything pretty damn good. I would recommend beadlocks and ~8psi if possible. 14psi works well on an 8" rim w/o beadlocks, never spins, never breaks a bead.
 
Like I said, don't need air.

Bogger VS TSL? Boggers aren't much for side-hill traction, but if you need a tire that will just keep digging trying to get you through, it will do it. The TSL will do everything but mud, sharp rock, and loose dirt just a little better than the Bogger. Bogger shines in those places well. Sand/on-road is a toss-up; HP, water, and throttle application can make one look way better than the other and vise-versa.

The tall-skinny is the only Bogger good for other than mud, and it actually does everything pretty damn good. I would recommend beadlocks and ~8psi if possible. 14psi works well on an 8" rim w/o beadlocks, never spins, never breaks a bead.

Well I'm in the desert so no mud here:clap::bounce:! So I will prolly go with the TSL's! The wider tire will fill those gaping holes between the rocks better too! Thanks for the help!


Right now I only have 2.5" lift and didn't want to go to high so to keep the CoG to a minimum! I really don't want to have 6" sus and 2" body ect, ect!!! Can I get by with 5"sus/no body and lower bump stops???
 
All you need are slee arms and 2" bumpstop extensions to fit 38s. Lift just puts your travel where you want it. BL just means you don't have to run as much bumpstop spacer. You'll rub a little more with the 38x13s than you would with 38.5x11s, but nothing that is going to eat up a tire (no flares of course).
 
All you need are slee arms and 2" bumpstop extensions to fit 38s. Lift just puts your travel where you want it. BL just means you don't have to run as much bumpstop spacer. You'll rub a little more with the 38x13s than you would with 38.5x11s, but nothing that is going to eat up a tire (no flares of course).
So 5"sus Slee arms and 2" bump stops or did you mean leave the 2.5"sus and just add the Slee arms and 2" bump stops:confused:??? I wouldn't think the 2.5"s would work...right??

Why are the Slee arms a must?




Oh yeah flares are long gone!:hillbilly:
 

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