How to Replace Oil Pump seal w/ Pics

[guzzla]

I had the pleasure of removing my oil pump cover with the engine out and it was still an absolute bitch. I med to get the first screw out but ended up having to drill and Easy-out the other 6 screws. Took about 2hrs and I was bloody happy I wasn't trying to do all this with it still in the engine bay.

When putting the cover back on, I used 6x22mm Allen key head screws and put some grease on each thread to act as an anti-seize. I can't imagine having to remove it any time soon but it should make it much easier for the next poor soul who needs to.

A mate had a similar issue removing his cover and with the engine still in the engine bay, he sure was hating life having to stuff around in the confined space of the engine bay with a dill and easy-outs.

And to remove the crank shaft bolt, I ended up welding a 30mm socket to a 1200mm length of 50x20x3mm RHS and I still had to hang off the bastard to crack it.

 

[beatle_bayly]

I just completed the task with no real problems. Thanks immensely for the original post. It saved me time, dollars, and skinned knuckles. I really enjoyed the beer after I finished....

My recommendation is to ensure the engine is as clean as possible before you begin. Also make sure you tap the #3 tip solidly with a hammer (i did at least 20x per screw). I also used Loctite Freeze on the screws but not sure it actually helped.

I refitted with allen-head (socket head) screws, loctited...

I cut a piece of plywood to cover the radiator core for protection.

While the pulley was out I also fabricated a holding tool.

On reassembly I didn't have a torque wrench but the bolt is as tight as I could get it with a 3' pipe hanging off the socket handle. I'm sure it's probably more than the spec 305 ft/lb I'm pleasantly surprised how well the two 8mm bolts holding the tool to the pulley survived !!!! I was sure they would shear.

 

[Kernal]

In post # 218 Mulisha states "MAKE SURE THE HALF MOON IS AT THE 12 O'CLOCK POSITION WHEN YOU TAKE THE CRANK PULLEY OFF". Is he referring to the key in the crank? How do you tell where the key is before you pull the pulley off, or asking it another way, should we align the pulley to some mark before we pull it?

 

[beatle_bayly]

You don't need to align anything (e.g. for valve or ignition timing) but having the keyway at 12 oclock means less chance of the key falling out. Sounds like this is what happened to Mullisha.

I can't explain why he had low oil pressure though, unless for some reason the pump cover-to-impeller clearance was excessive???

I'll add that I don't agree with the many recommendations that the screws on the pump cover need to be particularly tight. With very little pressure the cover will make metal-to-metal contact with the pump casing and compress the seal. Tightening the screws further won't/can't compress the seal any more and overtightening could actually be counterproductive by distorting the sealing surface. You could also slightly pull a thread and then the cover won't sit flush.

My screws came out looking like new and they all had remnants of thread locking compound. I'd say they are 'tight' to remove because the threads are locked, not because they were installed tightly in the first place. As soon as I'd cracked the threads on the screws (1/16 of a turn) they came out the rest of the way with my fingers.

I used loctite and only just nipped the screws up, and so far no leaks.

 

[Kernal]

How do you tell when the crank key is at the 12 o'clock position before the crank is pulled off?

Someone in an earlier post used a soldering gun to apply heat to the screws before attempting to remove them; is that a good way to break the screws free, maybe followed by some of that frozen bolt penetrating lubricant??

 

[arndog123]

You'll be able to see the crank key as soon as you remove the crank bolt.

 

[BirfMark]

How do you tell when the crank key is at the 12 o'clock position before the crank is pulled off?

Someone in an earlier post used a soldering gun to apply heat to the screws before attempting to remove them; is that a good way to break the screws free, maybe followed by some of that frozen bolt penetrating lubricant??

I highly doubt that a soldering gun would be able to transfer enough heat down the threads to break the thread locker, but I don't think you'll hurt anything by trying.

I wouldn't use any sort of lubricant/penetrating oil on the screws. With thread lock adhesive on the threads, it won't do any good. What it will do is make the heads slippery & lead to camming out & stripping the heads.

 

[kidglove13]

How do you get the crank pully itself off? puller?

Also I have read and want to make sure, do i strap the breaker bar to passenger side frame rail to break the crank bolt loose?

 

[arndog123]

How do you get the crank pully itself off? puller?

Also I have read and want to make sure, do i strap the breaker bar to passenger side frame rail to break the crank bolt loose?

The pulley should slide right off. Yes, pass side rail for the breaker bar.

 

[concretejungle]

The pulley should slide right off. Yes, pass side rail for the breaker bar.

Yes, once the nut is off, the pulley will slide right off.

 

[kidglove13]

Just got done doing my oil pump seal and crank seal.
Took 4 1/2 hours
I left the radiator in place.
Crank bolt came right off putting a 14mm deep socket on the torque plate worked great.
The hardest part was getting the pump cover screws out as you all know.
When I felt that one was going to strip I backed off and took a small torch and put some heat to it.
Then I took a flat head bit and tapped it into both slots on the screw head to give a good groove again.
Hit it with some more heat again and then tried the phillips head again and they would come out.
I repeated this process on several of the screws and it worked great, took alittle longer but no stripped screws.
Using the little torch definitly made the difference.
Put new seal in held it in place with alittle grease, the old seal was as hard as rock candy it just snapped into little pieces.
Used new screws from Mr. T and put alittle bit of anti sieze on them, I think that part of the problem is that the steel screws and the aluminum do not mesh well together and will sieze together over time.
Torqued the crank bolt back up with a 300 lb torque wrench then hit it again with a 3/4 inch breaker bar to make sure.
Fired the rig back up and all is well.
We will see in the morn when I driver it if the leak is gone.
I highly suggest using heat to get the cover screws out it worked like a charm, just don't burn any thing in the engine compartment.

 

[Kernal]

kidglove: What did you use for heat, a regular propane torch? How long did you apply the heat?

 

[kidglove13]

I used a propane torch it was tight but it worked.
Not all of the screws need the heat.
It was trial and error kind off thing I did not heat it red hot if that is what you mean.
Also I think that putting the bit into screw and tapping it with a hammer also helped as well.
It was a PITA but patience and taking my time was key being aware of when one of the screws was going to strip and backing off and working on it alittle bit at a time.
Some heat and tapping and try agian if no go, repeat process.
It is tight so be careful with the torch lots of things that could get torched that you don't want to

 

[Kernal]

IIRC someone used 16mm long flat head screws to replace the original 13mm long screws; can anyone confirm that the threaded holes for the oil pump cover screws are deep enough to accept 16mm long screws? Thanks

 

[kidglove13]

I would just go get the OEM screws

 

[crooozer]

In regard to heating the screws because they are locktighted, how bout just driving the car and working while the engine is still warm? I will be performing this job on the weekend too btw, just waiting on parts to arrive.

 

[kidglove13]

Well if you want to work in a hot engine bay go for it.
I do not think you will be happy working in a hot or warm engine bay.
You really have to get down in there especially if you are not removing the radiator it is tight space.
You will be cursing alot more, wait til you get to the oil pump cover screws you will need to work from the top and bottom, leaning over and on a hot or warm radiator is not fun this job is going to take you about 4 hours +/- remember that.
I just did this 2 weeks ago.
Not hard just annoying you have to be really careful not to strip the screws that is what I spent the most time on.

 

[Kernal]

How have most people done this, with the vehicle just sitting on it's wheels and working on their backs, or do they jack up the front end and do it all from the bottom sorta sitting under the bumper, or on a lift? If working on the floor is there enough room for the breaker bar and torque wrench? Just trying to see it in my mind before I dig into it.

 

[yamapro]

I did mine with the truck parked in the driveway. No Jacks needed

 

[kidglove13]

You will find that you will be working from the top and the bottom.
I did the breaker bar and torque wrenching from the top.
I got my crank bolt off with the breaker bar and put a 14 mm deep socket on the drive plate at the tranny worked like a charm for me.
No jack needed.
When you get into it you will see how you have to work it.
I had to use a 4 foot step ladder and stand on the bumper to work from the top.