any suggestions on removing the fiberglass top to restore hardtop? do I just drill out the rivets?
Thanks
Rob
Thanks
Rob
how to drill rivets from hardtop to remove??
- Thread starter Roberto
- Start date
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I used the edge of a grinding disk to get the heads off then a punch to knock the rest out. Worked well.
That's a good idea, but you risk grinding into the thin rain gutter. Just use a flat screwdriver or metal prybar end and tap with a hammer to slice the bottom off the rivet. Then use a nail punch to tap the rivet heads out the other side. The rivet are aluminum and shear off easily.
Are you really ready to conduct a restoration on the fiberglass cap and drip rail??? It's a PITA...doable, but requires you to invest some time and not be in a hurry.
Obviously the first step is to take it apart and clean and then sand or media blast the rain gutter. Prime and paint the rain gutter on the INSIDE (part thats exposed inside the truck where the cap bolts to the sides) with a rust inhibiting paint like POR 15.
Now the fun part. Putting it back together. Would suggest that you get:
- 1 tube of Sikaflex to bond fiberglass back to the rain gutter AND the winshield panel to hardtop (get the high strength stuff...West Marine.com or have local West Marine order you a tube...they don't stock in stores but can get it)
- seam sealer (2 tubes...the 3M seam sealer is best and hardens...Cool Cruisers stocks it...stuff from local auto store might stay soft and never truly harden)
- solid aluminum rivets (what Cool Cruisers stocks is too big and requires you to drill out all of the holes...McMaster-Carr stocks a solid rivet that replicates the look of the visible rivet head on the bottom of the rain gutter)
- rivet set tool (can find name of mine...about $20 from a tool supply house)
- Cleecos and Cleeco plyers (more tools...you'll need a bunch of these to hold the drip rail to the fiberglass cap while the Sikaflex sets up to make sure you get a good seal)
- lots of patience to sand and smooth out the seam sealer so the rain gutter works properly and doesn't leak
Are you really ready to conduct a restoration on the fiberglass cap and drip rail??? It's a PITA...doable, but requires you to invest some time and not be in a hurry.
Obviously the first step is to take it apart and clean and then sand or media blast the rain gutter. Prime and paint the rain gutter on the INSIDE (part thats exposed inside the truck where the cap bolts to the sides) with a rust inhibiting paint like POR 15.
Now the fun part. Putting it back together. Would suggest that you get:
- 1 tube of Sikaflex to bond fiberglass back to the rain gutter AND the winshield panel to hardtop (get the high strength stuff...West Marine.com or have local West Marine order you a tube...they don't stock in stores but can get it)
- seam sealer (2 tubes...the 3M seam sealer is best and hardens...Cool Cruisers stocks it...stuff from local auto store might stay soft and never truly harden)
- solid aluminum rivets (what Cool Cruisers stocks is too big and requires you to drill out all of the holes...McMaster-Carr stocks a solid rivet that replicates the look of the visible rivet head on the bottom of the rain gutter)
- rivet set tool (can find name of mine...about $20 from a tool supply house)
- Cleecos and Cleeco plyers (more tools...you'll need a bunch of these to hold the drip rail to the fiberglass cap while the Sikaflex sets up to make sure you get a good seal)
- lots of patience to sand and smooth out the seam sealer so the rain gutter works properly and doesn't leak
I actually ground from the top, very carefully. No damage.
You may need to buy a new drip rail. They are expensive. I am replacing sections of metal on mine. LOTS of work and very time consuming. I'll be using Zero Rust on it. I am also going with 3M 5200 to seal the top back to the drip rail. I have had good luck with it in the past. Then pop vivets since I don't care about the look.
You may need to buy a new drip rail. They are expensive. I am replacing sections of metal on mine. LOTS of work and very time consuming. I'll be using Zero Rust on it. I am also going with 3M 5200 to seal the top back to the drip rail. I have had good luck with it in the past. Then pop vivets since I don't care about the look.
- Thread starter
- #5
I will have to restore since I already have close to 50K in restoration so far. I have the deluxe raingutter from CCOT which came with rivets will those not work or should i get the mccaster ones?
R
R
BDSeff1fitty
1987 Toyota 4Runner
50k 
wanna give me some money for my rebuild? PM me for my name and address
wanna give me some money for my rebuild? PM me for my name and address
Roberto: If CCOT sent you the same rivets as me, they are too big for the job.
Here's the info on the parts I used:
- Rivets = "FLAT HEAD RIVET 1100 ALUM PLN 1/8 x 3/8" (sourced from McMaster-Carr)
- Rivet Set Tool = "C.S. OSBOURNE & CO., TINNERS RIVET SET & HEADER TOOL" (model #169, size = 6)
IMPORTANT: Forgot to mention in prior post, but get about 2 or 3 boxes of 1/8" rivet washers...slide solid rivet up from bottom side of rain gutter through fiberglass top...place washer over rivet shaft...now set rivet. This will give you more clamping coverage and keep you from messing up the fiberglass.
If you can't find the set tool online, Osbourne's address is Harrison, N.J. 07209, phone 973.483.3232. It's about $20 if I remember correctly...
When done, the final look is very factory appearing with these rivets. Use a slab of steel (or a chunck of marble countertop like me) to brace the back side of the rivet when tapping the set tool with a sledge hammer. Then flood the rain gutter 2x with 3M letting it cure fully between passes. Using M.E.K. on a small paint brush will let you "float" and smooth out the seam sealer leaving only a minimum to sand.
Here's the info on the parts I used:
- Rivets = "FLAT HEAD RIVET 1100 ALUM PLN 1/8 x 3/8" (sourced from McMaster-Carr)
- Rivet Set Tool = "C.S. OSBOURNE & CO., TINNERS RIVET SET & HEADER TOOL" (model #169, size = 6)
IMPORTANT: Forgot to mention in prior post, but get about 2 or 3 boxes of 1/8" rivet washers...slide solid rivet up from bottom side of rain gutter through fiberglass top...place washer over rivet shaft...now set rivet. This will give you more clamping coverage and keep you from messing up the fiberglass.
If you can't find the set tool online, Osbourne's address is Harrison, N.J. 07209, phone 973.483.3232. It's about $20 if I remember correctly...
When done, the final look is very factory appearing with these rivets. Use a slab of steel (or a chunck of marble countertop like me) to brace the back side of the rivet when tapping the set tool with a sledge hammer. Then flood the rain gutter 2x with 3M letting it cure fully between passes. Using M.E.K. on a small paint brush will let you "float" and smooth out the seam sealer leaving only a minimum to sand.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #8
lakenorman
I am on the site for rivets but what other info can you give me on these rivets? I dont find with info you sourced?
R
I am on the site for rivets but what other info can you give me on these rivets? I dont find with info you sourced?
R
FishNinJay
SILVER Star
rivets? 
I'm waiting for my new '71 FJ40, and the photos look nice, but the cap is already refurbished, but unpainted. Ready for primer, pain, clearcoat. Per the PO, the cap just bolts on and off easily, and can be taken off to put on the headliner and refinish the top. I've seen picture with just the cap off, but the hardtop sidepanels still on the vehicle, so I know it's been done.
Will it be a PITA to remove the cap and refinish the top and glue on the CCOT headliner? I'll post photos when I get my rig. I think the cap has been on the rig unfinished for a little while. Is there any surface prep I should consider before primer? Thanks.
I'm waiting for my new '71 FJ40, and the photos look nice, but the cap is already refurbished, but unpainted. Ready for primer, pain, clearcoat. Per the PO, the cap just bolts on and off easily, and can be taken off to put on the headliner and refinish the top. I've seen picture with just the cap off, but the hardtop sidepanels still on the vehicle, so I know it's been done.
Will it be a PITA to remove the cap and refinish the top and glue on the CCOT headliner? I'll post photos when I get my rig. I think the cap has been on the rig unfinished for a little while. Is there any surface prep I should consider before primer? Thanks.
The cap is riveted the raingutter. The sides are bolted to the raingutter.
A quick recommendation. If you haven't already removed the old drip rail from the top, use it to pattern the new sections from CCOT. I put the top upside down, lay the CCOT drip rail in place and tack weld it together. That way, you get exactly the right shape and the holes are all in the right place. If you wait til after you remove the old drip rail, you will be likely fighting the top moving around and may not have a good fit when you reassemble
Don
www.wolfcreekrodworks.com
Don
www.wolfcreekrodworks.com
