how to disassemble early FJ40 doors?

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Hi. I am trying to remove the top frame from the bottom part of my FJ40 doors. I removed all of the screws and the wing window mechanism, but it still will not come out.

I think the window/crank is snagging. How do I remove this?

Thank you
 
If I'm not mistaken, you'll need to remove the other cover and crank the window until you see the arm bolted to the window cradle. It's on a slide. It's not hard once you see everything. They are quite simple. I prefer to do the doors flat outside down on carpet or towels. That keeps the weight of the glass neutral.

Hope this helps.
 
If I'm not mistaken, you'll need to remove the other cover and crank the window until you see the arm bolted to the window cradle. It's on a slide. It's not hard once you see everything. They are quite simple. I prefer to do the doors flat outside down on carpet or towels. That keeps the weight of the glass neutral.

Hope this helps.
Thanks for the reply. Are you saying I need to remove the transparent plastic sheet that's glued to the door?

2019-03-12 18.32.32.jpg
 
Yep. It's not hard to remake that weather barrier if you want to.
 
Hi. I am trying to remove the top frame from the bottom part of my FJ40 doors. I removed all of the screws and the wing window mechanism, but it still will not come out.

I think the window/crank is snagging. How do I remove this?

Thank you
Sooo, my 74 FJ40 doors can be converted to 1/2 doors?
 
The early doors are much easier to make 1/2 doors than the late model doors. Just unbolt the top have and remove the glass. Done.
 
The early doors are much easier to make 1/2 doors than the late model doors. Just unbolt the top have and remove the glass. Done.
wow I will have to check this out on my doors.
 
@mrjordann, what year? Mine's a '67 (looks like same color) and I didn't see evidence of the plastic sheet. Kind of amazed they'd bother, there are so many other gaps!

View attachment 1926528
Mines 73. Yeah, it's super weird. Water and dust can easily get in through the top, through the window slot. I don't know what the plastic does but I doubt I can find another one.
 
any one have proceess in picture form on how to do this?
 
Just remember if you have weatherstripping on your door separating the two isn't so easy... ;)

View attachment 1926810
that wont be an issue, only ask because my doors are stored and want to know the difficulty before I dig them out
 
@ginmtb


Hey,
How's that fancy weatherstrip working out?

Sadly I haven't gotten my cruiser back running... AC project is bigger than I expected plus I've been sick so that has set me back as well. But I'm sure it will be great - I can't see any light coming through the door (in a dark garage with flashlight).
 
To remove the door top, I will reference that lovely picture above.

If you have weatherstripping, you will have to unfortunately cut it right at the top of the lower door section, front and rear, a good sharp knife will make the best, smallest slit.

First remove the large silver cover plate, then roll the window down until you see the arm and sliding track from the window regulator. Reach in hole or use large soft faced clamp, like a Quick Grip or something and hold the glass from falling down the tracks. Remove 4 screws from window crank and slide out and forward until wheel comes out of slide on bottom of glass. Retain grip on glass somehow, again the clamp works good. If the glass falls down, there is a rubber faced stop at the bottom of the door, but it is a pain in the butt to slide back up, you need spidey hands to do it. The window stop is held in with the two bolts closely spaced at the bottom of the door below the large access cover, do not remove these. Remember position of crank to arm orientation if you want it go back in the same way and crank up and down to the same spots, relative to where the inner door crank handle stops.

Next remove the 4 bolts located roughly in line with the window tracks at each quadrant of the door. There are also 2 bolts on the front edge of the door. They can just be seen above, in front of the hub instruction sticker. Next turn the wing window to all the way open. There is a limiter piece inside the door, you can see it if you take out the grey round plug at the front of the door below the wingwindow. If left closed, this will catch and not allow removal. Also the two window tracks kind of catch as they come out, you will need to push them slightly away from the inner skin of the door. This gets the welded nut flanges over into the holes they are going to pull up and out of.

At this point things may be rusted up, particularly the front mount below the wing window. Some gentle tapping with a soft faced mallet and wiggling may break it loose, could take rust penetrant too. Once it is broke loose slide the whole thing up, holding on to the glass, a helper is very nice to have at this point. Remember the tracks are going to catch as they come out as noted above. Once everything is moving, the slide track at the bottom the glass may hang up against the rubber and felt wipers in the lower door top, you have to gently force it through. Once free, hold onto the window tracks, as they may spread and drop the glass out, the glass is thick and heavy. When pulling through the wipers, the retainers may be damaged or dislodged. They are held on by tiny wire clips with a round top and an "X" bent into them that just stick through the holes in the retainer/wiper/door top. If they fall down into the door a long magnet may find them again.

I store door tops with the glass slid out and safely stowed separate, or upside down behind a cabinet or something, they should be safe there. A piece of wire can be placed across the tracks so they don't spread. Wing window can stay in.

Cheap plastic clipboards make great raw material to make a patch for the window crank hole.

Technically the plastic and tar inside the access cover and the gasket under the window crank do keep out dust as the water weep holes in the bottom of the door are exposed to the outside beyond the weatherstripping. Dust could migrate out of the door from those openings, mainly just leaves a funny static dust stain around them.
 
It's fun to be on the re-assembly end. I spent a few hours just today at the garage and finally got to bolting the doors back up. Everything was going fine until I realized I had everything I needed except the replacement door felts.
 
@mrjordann, what year? Mine's a '67 (looks like same color) and I didn't see evidence of the plastic sheet. Kind of amazed they'd bother, there are so many other gaps!

View attachment 1926528

Mines 73. Yeah, it's super weird. Water and dust can easily get in through the top, through the window slot. I don't know what the plastic does but I doubt I can find another one.

I think the plastic weather barrier was (at least) installed on the old style doors that came with the optional vinyl garnement. Doors with the vinyl don't have the metal plate (so no bulge behind the garnement) and the plastic avoided moisture to molten the carton backing of those garnements.
 

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