How to Desmog an FJ60

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Where does it end tho? on the pipe under the carb? if so, i thought this was deleted?

On mine, I plugged the EGR input but left the PCV input on and retained that part below the carb.
 
so no t fitting?
just straight to intake port?

Yes; no change from where it was originally hooked up; just blocked-off the old EGR input on the other side of the fitting. \
 
So I've seen a lot of great information here on desmog for stock carburetor, or aftermarket or chinese carb, or Spider or other fuel injection, but I can't find anything on applying an Affordable Fuel Injection (AFI) unit to a 2F engine. I have a '86 FJ60 that is completely stock. It suffers from the classic severe hesitation at takeoff. I started in on the 2.4 miles of vacuum lines. Much rot. Vacuum leaks everywhere and many of the little plastic vac/electric modules no longer functional. I have all 7 volumes of the original factory emissions manuals and after tearing half my remaining hair out, I threw in the towel. I got the AFI setup with their distributor, fuel pump, etc.
BTW, my intention is a FULL desmog. Keep the charcoal canister. I'll need to install an O2 sensor in the exhaust header whether I use the stock manifold or aftermarket.
Can someone point me to the appropriate threads on Mud where AFIs are discussed?
 
So I've seen a lot of great information here on desmog for stock carburetor, or aftermarket or chinese carb, or Spider or other fuel injection, but I can't find anything on applying an Affordable Fuel Injection (AFI) unit to a 2F engine. I have a '86 FJ60 that is completely stock. It suffers from the classic severe hesitation at takeoff. I started in on the 2.4 miles of vacuum lines. Much rot. Vacuum leaks everywhere and many of the little plastic vac/electric modules no longer functional. I have all 7 volumes of the original factory emissions manuals and after tearing half my remaining hair out, I threw in the towel. I got the AFI setup with their distributor, fuel pump, etc.
BTW, my intention is a FULL desmog. Keep the charcoal canister. I'll need to install an O2 sensor in the exhaust header whether I use the stock manifold or aftermarket.
Can someone point me to the appropriate threads on Mud where AFIs are discussed?

There's a fair amount of info in the 40-series sub-forum, if you search back a few years. Not many folks are going that route nowadays; the Holley Sniper appears to be much easier to install and tune.
 
There's a fair amount of info in the 40-series sub-forum, if you search back a few years. Not many folks are going that route nowadays; the Holley Sniper appears to be much easier to install and tune.
Thanks 1911. I already have the AFI unit Been sitting in the unopened box under my bench for a couple of years.
 
Question about desmogging: After following the pdf for desmog; is it expected that the headlamp washer loses functionality?
 
So I've seen a lot of great information here on desmog for stock carburetor, or aftermarket or chinese carb, or Spider or other fuel injection, but I can't find anything on applying an Affordable Fuel Injection (AFI) unit to a 2F engine. I have a '86 FJ60 that is completely stock. It suffers from the classic severe hesitation at takeoff. I started in on the 2.4 miles of vacuum lines. Much rot. Vacuum leaks everywhere and many of the little plastic vac/electric modules no longer functional. I have all 7 volumes of the original factory emissions manuals and after tearing half my remaining hair out, I threw in the towel. I got the AFI setup with their distributor, fuel pump, etc.
BTW, my intention is a FULL desmog. Keep the charcoal canister. I'll need to install an O2 sensor in the exhaust header whether I use the stock manifold or aftermarket.
Can someone point me to the appropriate threads on Mud where AFIs are discussed?
If you’re having trouble getting the engine to run with a stock set up, then adding fuel injection via an AFI or Sniper is not going to fix your unhealthy engine. If you can’t diagnose the problem then you can’t be sure the FI will be the solution.

I wasted so much time and money putting a sniper on a tired engine. It was happy for a few weeks. Then it started giving me all kinds of problems and I couldn’t figure any of it out. The engine ran so rich because the sniper was trying so hard to keep the thing running that it eventually caked everything inside with carbon and it stopped idling all together.

I’m now rebuilding the engine and installing a non usa carb and keeping it without smog equipment. These engines are based off a 1930’s design. The intake isn’t really meant for fuel injection. Toyota redesigned the intake manifold for the 3F-E for a reason and it’s still not a great design compared to what we have going on today.

It’s my opinion that putting FI on one of these engines is not the best idea. I’ve heard of people having success with really strong healthy engines that have no vacuum or exhaust leaks. However, so many people get stumped by a variety of problems and there’s hardly any consensus on what are the solutions. My personal experience ended up being a worst case scenario. Not to mention the brand new non Toyota electric fuel pump left me stranded for three days in the middle of nowhere Colorado.

Also, the throttle cable kept failing and left me stranded on the side of a mountain one night. Toyota’s design is pretty perfect when you can diagnose the problems you’re having.

Have you checked your manifolds for cracks? There’s a common crack that happens in the intake just under the carb. It could cause your problem. How many miles do you have on that engine?
 
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Do you have to cut the air pipe per the doc or can you just leave it? "The metal pipe off the pump can be removed, then there's a decision to make about how to deal with the rubber hose and the metal pipe that connects to the cat. The choice is as follows (from JimC):o The proper fix is to drop the front exhaust pipe, cut the air pipe off, then weld the hole shut:o The hillbilly fix is to cut the rubber hose under the master cylinder, then stuff a big bolt or a rock or a stick in it (secure the bolt with a hose clamp to keep it in place)"

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What is the drawback to leaving it?
 
Do you have to cut the air pipe per the doc or can you just leave it? "The metal pipe off the pump can be removed, then there's a decision to make about how to deal with the rubber hose and the metal pipe that connects to the cat. The choice is as follows (from JimC):eek: The proper fix is to drop the front exhaust pipe, cut the air pipe off, then weld the hole shut:eek: The hillbilly fix is to cut the rubber hose under the master cylinder, then stuff a big bolt or a rock or a stick in it (secure the bolt with a hose clamp to keep it in place)"

View attachment 3395939

What is the drawback to leaving it?
Any rubber hose that touches the cat will melt. Not sure what you’re talking about…. The thermosensor?

The pipe you have pictured is part of the EGR/smog pump system. You can leave it and block it. Leaving it makes it easier to go back to stock if you ever decide to do so.
 
Beware when performing the removal of parts: If you remove the metal spaghetti piping be sure to put the bolt back into the front of the block and tighten. I thought he bolt was simply for attaching the piping, until I came back to a small puddle of coolant.
 
Beware when performing the removal of parts: If you remove the metal spaghetti piping be sure to put the bolt back into the front of the block and tighten. I thought he bolt was simply for attaching the piping, until I came back to a small puddle of coolant.
What year model? I don’t recall having that issue.
 
This hasn't been posted in a while so I thought I'd reup.
I thought you just yanked everything off and cap it off
then when it runs like crap, wonder what you did wrong.

I wouldn’t say my truck cuts out at 75 mph. But it’s not as if the 2F has much power to go faster or even maintain 75 if the road starts to point upwards.


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Hmmm… I’m in an 87. I’m in the middle of a rebuild so I’ll keep an eye out for that. Thanks for the heads up. Maybe I realized that hole opened the coolant jackets and plugged it and forgot about it?
 
Desmog question regarding the Air Cleaner: I had the Jim C 2F Cap and Plug kit and put the caps on the Air Cleaner that fit however, there was a third tube (angled tube on the right) that I do not see referenced in the kit or Desmog doc. Any idea what this connects to or does it get capped as well?
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Desmog question regarding the Air Cleaner: I had the Jim C 2F Cap and Plug kit and put the caps on the Air Cleaner that fit however, there was a third tube (angled tube on the right) that I do not see referenced in the kit or Desmog doc. Any idea what this connects to or does it get capped as well?View attachment 3404542


that 45' angled metal tube u DO NEED ....


per The MUD SMOG CAZAR ...
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