How to Desmog an FJ60 (1 Viewer)

[Gretsch]

Most people use an electric fuel pump with Desmog? The guide doesn't mention this, curious what would need to be done to keep Mechanical pump.

He is not suggesting you have to go to an electric FP with desmog. He was just pointing out you can use a Holley Sniper Fuel Injection Kit to further simplify your 60 life, and that the least fun part of that kit is switching from mechanical to electric FP. Electric FP is not required for a normal desmog.

how'd you find a replacement charcoal canister?

Many folks use the AC-Delco aftermarket canister for this:

Amazon product ASIN B000C9I9GQ
The Delco is for FI applications so you have to change the hoses somewhat from stock, but many have had success with doing this. Thread below offers some clarity on the aftermarket charcoal canister swaps:

Aftermarket charcoal canister

To those that have replaced the oem charcoal canister with an aftermarket version like the ac delco or autozone, what did you do with the line that was going to the oem canister on the bottom?

forum.ih8mud.com

HTH

 

[Spike Strip]

Most people use an electric fuel pump with Desmog? The guide doesn't mention this, curious what would need to be done to keep Mechanical pump.

Keep your mechanical pump. More reliable than an external electric pump and in the absence of features to shut it off in a roll-over, safer.

 

[Beehanger]

Alright guys,
Really need to get this thing at least OPERABLE, Am I risking damaging the vehicle If I run on an improper desmog job, and will it run temporarily and for 10 minutes to have the engine broken in if I don't have all the vacuum lines hooked up correctly? I've done all the major stuff, installed all the JIM C stuff and will try to get it right to the best of my ability, but I'm sure it will take some further tinkering.

since I'm doing the Desmog concurrently with an engine break in, I just want to double check, as things are moving quickly, that I'll be able to run the engine for 10 minutes if it starts even if I have a vaccum leak or misrouted vacuum lines etc.

We'll be checking engine temp etc.

I just need to get the rig running for better or for worse at this point,

Beehanger

 

[kprdvr]

I did the desmog and can confirm I also used the same AC Delco canister shared above, had to get longer bolts (but NOT too long) and bent the brackets outwards to fit the larger canister.

My biggest issue now is when I really get on it on the highway, I pull fuel too hard and it stutters. My theory is the mechanical fuel pump cannot keep up and I need to install an electric one to regulate pressure better... but I am just driving conservative for now (and don't let my wife drive it cuz she is used to pressing the pedal and getting response and doesn't understand how to feather the pedal when driving ).

I can't imagine what you could do during this job that will hurt the motor while you have it running and testing other than too lean and too rich, but I'm sure that can provoke people smarter than me to chime in with clever replies!

 

[Devils Paw 80]

Alright guys,
Really need to get this thing at least OPERABLE, Am I risking damaging the vehicle If I run on an improper desmog job, and will it run temporarily and for 10 minutes to have the engine broken in if I don't have all the vacuum lines hooked up correctly? I've done all the major stuff, installed all the JIM C stuff and will try to get it right to the best of my ability, but I'm sure it will take some further tinkering.

since I'm doing the Desmog concurrently with an engine break in, I just want to double check, as things are moving quickly, that I'll be able to run the engine for 10 minutes if it starts even if I have a vaccum leak or misrouted vacuum lines etc.

We'll be checking engine temp etc.

I just need to get the rig running for better or for worse at this point,

Beehanger

I don't see how it could possibly damage a robust old 2F to run it with a vacuum leak for a few minutes. There's been a 60 running around town here in terrible tune for many months now. The owner doesn't seem to care. It's a bit offensive, gives Land Cruisers a bad name.

Anyway, you shouldn't end up with many vacuum lines left after a desmog, right?

 

[2mbb]

I did the desmog and can confirm I also used the same AC Delco canister shared above, had to get longer bolts (but NOT too long) and bent the brackets outwards to fit the larger canister.

My biggest issue now is when I really get on it on the highway, I pull fuel too hard and it stutters. My theory is the mechanical fuel pump cannot keep up and I need to install an electric one to regulate pressure better... but I am just driving conservative for now (and don't let my wife drive it cuz she is used to pressing the pedal and getting response and doesn't understand how to feather the pedal when driving ).

I can't imagine what you could do during this job that will hurt the motor while you have it running and testing other than too lean and too rich, but I'm sure that can provoke people smarter than me to chime in with clever replies!

It is unlikely a properly working mechanical fuel delivery system will not work with a desmoged yet carbureted engine. Toyota really only put emissions on US vehicles, yet they marketed Land Cruisers all over the world. I think electric fuel pumps are really only necessary when higher fuel delivery pressures is needed for applications like fuel injection, etc.

You should trouble shoot your fuel delivery (pipes/hoses, filter, carburetor and pump. Your pump many in fact be failing but it can be replaced with a new mechanical pump that should perform just fine for this application.

 

[Gretsch]

It is unlikely a properly working mechanical fuel delivery system will not work with a desmoged yet carbureted engine.

Mine always worked fine this way. I think the PO put some aftermarket FP on the truck before I got it. It always worked for the most part fine with the desmog. Worked even better after the Kyosan pump I replaced it with. No reason the mech FP cannot work with a desmogged truck. I have proved this over hundreds of happy miles.

 

[kprdvr]

Mine always worked fine this way. I think the PO put some aftermarket FP on the truck before I got it. It always worked for the most part fine with the desmog. Worked even better after the Kyosan pump I replaced it with. No reason the mech FP cannot work with a desmogged truck. I have proved this over hundreds of happy miles.

Good to know...maybe I need to check the actual pressure and not trust the aftermarket regulator on it... do any of you have a regulator and PSI you suggest using with the weber?

FYI - my rig also has the MANAFRE Weber carb riser, which I thought might pull harder than the mechanical pump could handle on this additional part of my desmog, but maybe not: Weber Carburetor Adapter Kit for 1958-1987 Toyota Land Cruisers - Landcruiser Parts - https://manafrelv.com/product/man-a-fre-weber-empi-manifold-short-adapter-weber-empi-carburetors-to-f-2f-intake-manifolds-early-1974-1980-1987-adapter-kit/

I welcome any thoughts and feedback.

 

[Gretsch]

do any of you have a regulator and PSI you suggest using with the weber?

I should point out when I say my desmogged truck ran fine with a mechanical FP, it did so with the stock Aisin carb. Not sure how the stock FP and a Weber would sing together. Don't think I have seen a thread on here where the mention of a Weber carb on a 2F wasn't accompanied with all manner of issues. I'm sure you could get it to work, but just from what I have seen, seems it requires a bit of chicken-waving vood-doo to do so. GL.

 

[kprdvr]

I should point out when I say my desmogged truck ran fine with a mechanical FP, it did so with the stock Aisin carb. Not sure how the stock FP and a Weber would sing together. Don't think I have seen a thread on here where the mention of a Weber carb on a 2F wasn't accompanied with all manner of issues. I'm sure you could get it to work, but just from what I have seen, seems it requires a bit of chicken-waving vood-doo to do so. GL.

Thanks for the intellectual honesty I bought this FJ 3 years ago and have been battling this Weber the PO had installed and the half arse desmog his mechanic did (he lived in Savannah, GA = flat) and I had no idea during the test drive it had issues going uphill until I got halfway home to N GA, and if I wasn't so invested in this rabbithole I'd probably get a Sniper / fuel injection and just be done with it, but I'm sooo close to having it really well tuned that I don't wanna give up...

Question for all FJ60 owners on this topic, what is the expected max speed of your wagon? Mine really cuts out on highway when I push it to 75mph... is that a 'feature' or just my rig?

 

[Beehanger]

He is not suggesting you have to go to an electric FP with desmog. He was just pointing out you can use a Holley Sniper Fuel Injection Kit to further simplify your 60 life, and that the least fun part of that kit is switching from mechanical to electric FP. Electric FP is not required for a normal desmog.



Many folks use the AC-Delco aftermarket canister for this:

Amazon product ASIN B000C9I9GQ
The Delco is for FI applications so you have to change the hoses somewhat from stock, but many have had success with doing this. Thread below offers some clarity on the aftermarket charcoal canister swaps:

Aftermarket charcoal canister

To those that have replaced the oem charcoal canister with an aftermarket version like the ac delco or autozone, what did you do with the line that was going to the oem canister on the bottom?

forum.ih8mud.com

HTH

So, I’m wondering the best way to find a conclusive approach to one of the desmog approaches. Which guide points to using the stock distributor, the charcoal canister,and the Chinese carb like me?

The Chinese carb doesn’t have the linkage for the charcoal canister hose. Should I pull it off my old carb?

 

[Seth S]

Thanks for the intellectual honesty I bought this FJ 3 years ago and have been battling this Weber the PO had installed and the half arse desmog his mechanic did (he lived in Savannah, GA = flat) and I had no idea during the test drive it had issues going uphill until I got halfway home to N GA, and if I wasn't so invested in this rabbithole I'd probably get a Sniper / fuel injection and just be done with it, but I'm sooo close to having it really well tuned that I don't wanna give up...

Question for all FJ60 owners on this topic, what is the expected max speed of your wagon? Mine really cuts out on highway when I push it to 75mph... is that a 'feature' or just my rig?

I wouldn’t say my truck cuts out at 75 mph. But it’s not as if the 2F has much power to go faster or even maintain 75 if the road starts to point upwards.

 

[Seth S]

So, I’m wondering the best way to find a conclusive approach to one of the desmog approaches. Which guide points to using the stock distributor, the charcoal canister,and the Chinese carb like me?

The Chinese carb doesn’t have the linkage for the charcoal canister hose. Should I pull it off my old carb?

Not sure there is an answer here. Basically if you want to keep the stock distributor in its stock form then plan on keeping the EGR system.

You should keep the evap system. That leaves the secondary air system that you can remove with impacting too much. If you are running a 2F and something like a Sniper efi then you have no need for the secondary air any more but EGR won’t hurt anything.

 

[Beehanger]

I wouldn’t say my truck cuts out at 75 mph. But it’s not as if the 2F has much power to go faster or even maintain 75 if the road starts to point upwards.

you running a header?

 

[Beehanger]

Not sure there is an answer here. Basically if you want to keep the stock distributor in its stock form then plan on keeping the EGR system.

You should keep the evap system. That leaves the secondary air system that you can remove with impacting too much. If you are running a 2F and something like a Sniper efi then you have no need for the secondary air any more but EGR won’t hurt anything.

why doesn't the guide mention that EGR is necessary for stock DIzzy?

 

[kirvesmies]

why doesn't the guide mention that EGR is necessary for stock DIzzy?

@Beehanger , my cursory perusal of the desmog guide is not telling me that. the way i'm understanding it is the egr is the worst part of smog system. think of it this way, try running with your exhalation being circled back into the inhalation. yeah, not working worth a $h!t. i've got an '87 but haven't cracked that can of worms open yet so i've got no real ideas. keep after it mister, with muds help, you'll get thru it

 

[Seth S]

@Beehanger , my cursory perusal of the desmog guide is not telling me that. the way i'm understanding it is the egr is the worst part of smog system. think of it this way, try running with your exhalation being circled back into the inhalation. yeah, not working worth a $h!t. i've got an '87 but haven't cracked that can of worms open yet so i've got no real ideas. keep after it mister, with muds help, you'll get thru it

EGR slows down the ignition burn and that’s what the advance on the stock distributor is set up for. If you remove the EGR you really need to have the advance recurved or else you are very likely to experience pinging.

The purpose of the EGR is to reroute some exhaust back into the engine to help burn any unused fuel and put a cleaner exhaust into the cat. The air pump system is used to alternate a leaner exhaust condition. The Cat needs to see a regular sine wave of rich/lean in order to keep its reduction and oxidation beds functioning properly.

If you remove the EGR and the air pump and stick with a carb then your Cats become pretty much worthless. If you go to an efi system like a sniper then the cat will continue working as designed and likely become more efficient.

 

[kirvesmies]

@Seth S , i've never heard that before, the rich/lean cycle for the cat. my understanding is it works in certain temperature range. not arguing, trying to understand the nuances. i guess i interpreted "stock" for the distributor a little looser than beehanger does

 

[Gretsch]

EGR slows down the ignition burn and that’s what the advance on the stock distributor is set up for. If you remove the EGR you really need to have the advance recurved or else you are very likely to experience pinging.

I ran mine with stock non-recurved distributor desmogged without the EGR system. Given a choice I wouldn't run desmogged again. It ran OK but likely would have run much better with a dizzy recurve missing the EGR setup. Some periodic pinging under load. As long as you have the EGR parts, why not just run with it.

This post seems to explain pretty well the EGR system and how it relates to the stock distributor setup.

Question about recurve ?

Pease explain me what is the meaning of recurve the dizzy , and why we have to do it after desmog ? What is done to the distributor and why is needed ? In simple , not expert terms , please ..

forum.ih8mud.com

HTH

 

[Beehanger]

I ran mine with stock non-recurved distributor desmogged without the EGR system. Given a choice I wouldn't run desmogged again. It ran OK but likely would have run much better with a dizzy recurve missing the EGR setup. Some periodic pinging under load. As long as you have the EGR parts, why not just run with it.

This post seems to explain pretty well the EGR system and how it relates to the stock distributor setup.

Question about recurve ?

Pease explain me what is the meaning of recurve the dizzy , and why we have to do it after desmog ? What is done to the distributor and why is needed ? In simple , not expert terms , please ..

forum.ih8mud.com

HTH

You wouldn't' desmog as a whole if you could do it again?