How to check f/r lockers during a test drive? (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Apr 12, 2003
Threads
14
Messages
45
I plan on test driving another 80 this weekend. What is the best way to test the front and rear electric lockers with a sales guy or owner in the car? I'm not sure they will be enthusiastic about an off road adventure during the test drive, so is there a way to do this in a parking lot?
 
Sure. With the brake on, shift it into low and turn the locker knob. The dashboard lights will flash until they get locked. If they don't lock while sitting there crawl forward a few inches while gently turning the steering back and forth and they should lock right up. Truck steers like a barge once all locked.
 
Find yourself a dirt lot to do this in.  It is hard on the truck to engage and use lockers on pavement.

Just my 2 dirty little cents...
 
Lights in the dash - of course! Having not been in a vehicle equipped with lockers from the factory, I did not realize there were lights to signal axle lock. The ARB on my jeep make a nice vacuum sound when engaging.
 
KStone,

There are seperate lights for the center diff, the rear diff, and the front diff. Each light is unique and once you see them blinking or lit you will be able to tell which is which.

You need to be in Neutral to shift to Low Range. The lights blink when the system detects that you have engaged the switch (or Low range). The lights go solid when the system detects a lock condition. The center must lock before the rear will lock. The rear must lock before the front will lock.

Unlocking (and locking) on a hard surface could be difficult. Follow Rogue's advice. It would be embarrassing to get the diffs locked and not be able to get one to unlock because you are on a hard surface. We have an image on here somewhere that shows the dog clutch mechanism in a rear locker. When that thing is engaged and there is pressure on the axle it won't unlock. You need some slippage.

Another pointer. &nbsp:Don't worry too much if the F&R won't engage. It is very likely they have never been engaged since leaving ARACO's testing in Japan. I have never heard of anyone with a major problem with buying a used 80 with unused factory diff-locks though many have reported they had to be 'excercised' before they started locking quickly. If they don't lock you can use that to negotiate price but I wouldn't let it deter me from buying an otherwise good Cruiser.

-B-
 
Thanks for the excellent advice!

Htopper – yes, frankly, the jeep does suck in many ways. It leaks just about every kind of fluid, wont go over 70 mph (and is quite scary at any speed over 60). But I have owned it since new (1993, first car I ever bought) and now it makes a great trail vehicle. Also, my wife thinks its cool to drive around town with the top off on sunny days (the jeep’s top, not hers you sickos).
It will never match the Toyota in quality or practicality but is still fun.
But I really cant wait to get a Cruiser with lockers out on the trails!!!
 
Just Kiddin' with ya. I owned a Wrangler during college that took me some amazing places (Although I sold an FJ40 to get it :slap: The ignorance of youth...)

You'll love the 80. In my opinion, it's the best all-around landcruiser ever made.

-H- :beer:
 
kstone,

Follow these guys advice! I did. Had never 'exercised' my factory lockers. The first time I did after reading about it here, one set locked up no problem, but the other just kept blinking. I think it was Beo's advice over on SOR which he mentions again here. Went out on my cul-de-sac (pavement unfortunately) and did exactly as Beo explains. Everything locked up just fine and unlocked as well. If you want to hear the lockers engaging, just roll down your windows, turn your radio off and listen. You will hear them engage.

To bad about your wife not going topless too! 8) You beat all us sickos to the punch!
 
Yes, takes me back to my first time, er J**p. Thought you might enjoy my 1963 or 64 jumpin J**p. It had a built 327
Chevy with 12 1/2 to ones. Crane cam, etc. from one of my drag cars. I took the leaf springs from under the axles, welded the brackets on the top, added some leafs and put the springs back giving me about a 14 inch lift. The top of the tires just came to the bottom of the fenders. The front driveshaft I made from schedule 80 pipe and the rear I shortened and welded up from a 1957 Chevy. I cut it on a table saw with an abrasive blade to make sure it was square; good grief. Had to fabricate the adapter as in those days you could not just buy them. The radiator was from a 1959 Chevy wagon and I rigged up a shroud with two heater motor fans on a toggle switch. All the steering and exhaust I hand bent and welded up. I put three sets of seatbelts in with one laptop, and two across my chest. Notice my motorcycle helmet. The picture was taken in about 1971 on a slate dump we used to play around on. If this offends someone I will remove it.
Bill
 
No roof rack? :dunno:
 
I think any feature on your truck needs to be run occasionally. I test mine on a straight section of street near my house with the assumption that if the front gets locked and stays locked I can hobble back to the house. (Midwest way of testing since trails are rarely close). Mine are ARB but I think testing is basically the same plan. If youre going straight and not straining the truck I don't see an issue. After all auto locker are locked in a lot of the time on the street (with all sorts of strange noises that would be the sign of a dying vehicle in any other scenario).
 
Holy 17 year thread revival Batman!
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom