How-To change a broken lug. (11 Viewers)

[Michael Hanson]

They should not break unless over tightned or have sat for very long periods, like years and rusted on. Mike

 

[marcfj60]

When I bought my '99 2 years ago, it had 5 studs that were screwed up. It was an AZ truck so rust was not an issue. The first thing I did was buy a tap and a die for that thread size and pitch. They were not easy to find. I had to go to a special tool store that sells machine tools. I ran the die over all the wheel studs that were messed up. The ones that were too far gone got replaced. I think it was 3 of them. The next thing I did was run a tap in all the lug nuts that had gotten messed up by the boogered up studs. Lastly, I applied some anti-seize to every stud on the truck prior to putting all the lug nuts back on. I think the problem probably was caused by 2 factors: Overtorqueing and not using any thread lubricant. It resulted in stripped and galled threads.

 

[DallasCrzr]

I have a feeling places like discount tire over torque the s*** out of the lug nuts because this car is the first time I have ever used that company and the first time I've ever had to break a lug, much less three on the same hub.

The first thing I did was buy a tap and a die for that thread size and pitch. They were not easy to find. I had to go to a special tool store that sells machine tools. I ran the die over all the wheel studs that were messed up. The ones that were too far gone got replaced. I think it was 3 of them. The next thing I did was run a tap in all the lug nuts that had gotten messed up by the boogered up studs.

Why didn't you just replace the lugs?

 

[rusty_tlc]

They should not break unless over tightned or have sat for very long periods, like years and rusted on. Mike

Just a few things that will cause studs to break when you remove them;
Under tightened, cross threaded, overheated rotors/drums.

 

[marcfj60]

Why didn't you just replace the lugs?

Only one of them was toast. I replaced that one. The others were just mildly messed up. It was easier to just chase the threads where a couple rows were boogered than completely replace them. I bought some extra studs to have on hand in case they broke later.

 

[jemsec]

If you have seized lug nuts they come off real easy with a 1/2" breaker bar and a 30" cheater pipe. Break like glass. Replaced front studs and now doing the rear. Also replaced all the lug nuts for insurance. At over $9.00 each it's a lot of $ because some idiot likes to run his impact wrench at light speed. I wonder how many times the lugs nuts have been removed and replaced? Will have a friendly discussion with the next person rotating my tires. Before they are touched!

 

[jgray]

jemsec - How long did it take you to replace a front wheel stud? Any advice before tearing the front down? I need to replace one on my front driver side wheel and plan to do it in the next day or so... The local Toyota dealership did not have any wheel studs for a 100 in stock yesterday but he told me Car Quest had some that matched OEM Part # so I got one yesterday...

 

[jemsec]

My first problem was the same wheel as yours and since it was the first time for me it took a couple of hours. Just follow the instructions in the post on repacking the front bearings. Seperating the hub from the rotor was slow as you should be careful. Used a thin chisel and worked around and around to get it apart. Place marks on both pieces in order to put it back together the same way.Suggest you replace the nut and lock rings along with real good grease. Be sure to bend the ears on the lock ring in two places. One in each direction. Check the bearings but should be ok for a long time. Studs came out with a medium BFM pretty quick and used the same method to put in the new ones. Be sure to line up the splines on the new studs with the ones in the hub before driving in place.
You're going to need good lock ring pliers, hub nut socket and torque wrench to do it by the book. Also will need a $6.00 fish scale to set the resistance to spec.

Suggest you replace all five at the same time. If you had trouble with one the others might be become a problem soon. Unless you want to take it apart five times? Broke one on both rear wheels and have replaced them also. Have replaced fifteen and have five more to go. Also replaced all lug nuts with OEM parts.. When replacing the rear, "be sure to back off the parking brake" rather than trying to pull the hub off and destroying the springs and other parts in the process like I did.

Once you complete the process you'll realize how step by step simple it is and will ask why you were so concerned. Just take your time and don't get in a hurry. One hour or six hours, so what?


PM me if you have any questions or problems. If needed I can call you.

 

[corleykj]

I am struggling with this. I think I need to put my truck in neutral and spin the rotor.
"I couldnt figure out why I wasnt finding the adjuster everyone including the FSM talked about. Was it directly behind the hole or off to the side for you?"


The reason I am reviving this thread is.... Is the factory lug nut wrench causing problems removing? Because it is a weird shape for leverage and evenness. I am thinking of getting a better wrench to carry in the back of the LC. The reason I am thinking the wrench could be the problem is I used an impact on the drivers side rear and didn't damage any lug nuts (just removing). On teh passenger side I used the factory tool and 2 lugnuts snapped off, and 1 is severely damaged. But they started super smooth as I removed them, then got cross threaded or jammed towards the end, and that is my reason in wondering if the wrench is a p.o.s.? I even worked them evenly and tried balancing the wheel to reduce tension on teh lugnuts and it was impossible. I had to force/break them just to get the wheel off.

 

[marcfj60]

It really doesn't matter what tool you use to remove them. It's the tool that some 'TOOL' used to put them on previously and overtourqued and/or cross-threaded them that likely caused the damage. The threads likely got chewed up from someone using and impact driver to snug them up. Then when you went to remove them, you got a little movement before they bound up completely and broke off.

Always install the lug nuts by hand, with your fingers, or at most with a socket by hand and no leverage. Once they are all finger tight, use a torque wrench in a crossing pattern to tighten them up. I don't put the full torque on them the first time I use the torque wrench either. I work my way around the pattern in a crossing-pattern 2-3 times before I put the full torque on them.

 

[corleykj]

I have never had a problem with studs and lugnuts before, which is weird, because I have had a lot of old vehicles. But this bothers me that studs can get damaged? So, the 'tool' that put my wheels back on messed them up...not me when I removed them?

I found studs and lugnuts at the dealership for a good deal. Hopefully they work.

 

[marcfj60]

It's pretty much impossible to mess up the threads when you're removing the nut. You can round off the flats on the nut if you use th wrong wrench but the threads had to have been damaged before you tried to remove the nuts.

 

[Crusher80]

Lug Replacement

Thanks to the OP for the write up, all worked well for me. Replaced one lug in no time; others appeared to be fine. One thing I found helpful when setting the new lug was to slide the circle at the end of a 10" crescent handle over the lug, along with the two washers from the caliper bolts, and it tightened right down. The crescent presses against the nearest lug and provides some leverage. Once again thanks for the write up!

 

[euclid]

This is a great thread and very helpful. Reading the FSM I though this job would be quite involved. This thread helped me understand it correctly. Thanks mud. I have one or two things that I'd add.

I used a big 22MM nut as a spacer to get to start to seat. Once it was in enough to get the wheel on I went ahead and put the wheel on. With a breaker bar and a socket I pulled the stud through a little bit at a time. I torqued the ones on the wheel that were not broken, which gave me a feel for how it should end up. Turning the breaker bar slowly, I could feel a difference until the stud seated into its place.

Thanks Scott!

 

[phsycle]

Just had a stud break on my other Toyota truck yesterday when I took it in for wheel balance. No, not Disc Tire. I think any shop that uses fast air tools to take on/off wheels will break studs. I think most of you had broken studs from Disc Tire, because most of you only GO TO Disc Tire.

Also, on step #5, instead of the washers, wouldn't it be easier to slip the rotor back on? And even use the washers on top of that, if needed. Then you wouldn't have to do any grinding.

 

[HFDPNL]

Just replaced 2 rear, driver's side studs yesterday. Nearby dealer had a few in stock. Hammered out the broken, and used lug nut to press in the new.

One thing I found was that a 3/4 nut works really well as a spacer instead of washers. I bought washers, but they offset the bottom of the lug nut enough that they caused it to try to pull the stud in at an angle. 3/4" nut was perfect.

 

[bucfl]

Did the rear rotor/brakes and one of the nuts twisted right off. Thx for the right up. I'll stop by and pick one up tomorrow.

Never had this issue with any prior vehicle. Don't know we're it was taken to to for prior service but one of the bolts holding the caliper was over tightened.

 

[PabloCruise]

When I bought my '99 2 years ago, it had 5 studs that were screwed up. It was an AZ truck so rust was not an issue. The first thing I did was buy a tap and a die for that thread size and pitch. They were not easy to find. I had to go to a special tool store that sells machine tools. I ran the die over all the wheel studs that were messed up. The ones that were too far gone got replaced. I think it was 3 of them. The next thing I did was run a tap in all the lug nuts that had gotten messed up by the boogered up studs. Lastly, I applied some anti-seize to every stud on the truck prior to putting all the lug nuts back on. I think the problem probably was caused by 2 factors: Overtorqueing and not using any thread lubricant. It resulted in stripped and galled threads.

Stud size 14mm x 1.5, eh?

 

[PabloCruise]

If you have seized lug nuts they come off real easy with a 1/2" breaker bar and a 30" cheater pipe. Break like glass. Replaced front studs and now doing the rear. Also replaced all the lug nuts for insurance. At over $9.00 each it's a lot of $ because some idiot likes to run his impact wrench at light speed. I wonder how many times the lugs nuts have been removed and replaced? Will have a friendly discussion with the next person rotating my tires. Before they are touched!

Lug nuts were $9/each? Is this at Toyota? Now I feel better about $5/each at NAPA. F'ing studs were $9/each.

 

[marcfj60]

Stud size 14mm x 1.5, eh?

Yes, that is the stud/nut thread size and pitch.