Toyota Specification is 97 ft-lbs.
I've had multiple broken lugs due to impact wrench at tire shop. I actually took my own torque wrench to the tire shop last time since theirs is only adjustable in 5 ft-lb increments (95 or 100, but not 97).
How-To change a broken lug. (1 Viewer)
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Toyota Specification is 97 ft-lbs.
I've had multiple broken lugs due to impact wrench at tire shop. I actually took my own torque wrench to the tire shop last time since theirs is only adjustable in 5 ft-lb increments (95 or 100, but not 97).
Sounds good. The dealer quoted me 568.00, to repack front bearings(right and left) and install new nug nut studs on the front left side. This also includes one 15.00 lug nut ouch...
I have used anti seize on my lugs in the past but have recently changed to a dab of used motor oil. The reasoning I do this now is over time that antseize creates a paste like substance on the stud and the lug nut that can lead to cross threading if not careful especially if this paste like material is not removed each time the lug goes on and off.
Removal of the old "paste" each time from previously using anti seize and cleaning the threads with a tap and die works well but takes time.
A tire shop will zip the lug on over the stud with that "old" paste material and now it is stripped. (Ask me how I know)
Also I believe that antiseize changes the torque value applied on that stud.
Removal of the old "paste" each time from previously using anti seize and cleaning the threads with a tap and die works well but takes time.
A tire shop will zip the lug on over the stud with that "old" paste material and now it is stripped. (Ask me how I know)
Also I believe that antiseize changes the torque value applied on that stud.
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I posted previously in the "replacing rear rotor" thread, but I'm past that and stuck on two broken wheel studs. I think thesee last two studs are welded in, lol, at this point I'm trying to keep my sense of humor. I tried lots of heat and pb over the last 3 nights. tonight I added wax, which did draw into the stud hole but isn't doing anything to help. Tried an air chisel, and lastly drilling through, which BTW, was a ton of work but didn't relieve any pressure, still won't budge.
So, Im thinking I can put everything back together and admit defeat, or pull the axle, have the stud pressed out and do the rear wheel bearings "while I'm at it".
I have lots of new parts I'm adding, and I'd like to do all the work myself. I can live with taking a part to a shop with a presss and luckily I have another car to drive.
First pic show condition of one of the holes of the other studs.
Second is where I am at right now.
Any insight or encouragement is appretiated
So, Im thinking I can put everything back together and admit defeat, or pull the axle, have the stud pressed out and do the rear wheel bearings "while I'm at it".
I have lots of new parts I'm adding, and I'd like to do all the work myself. I can live with taking a part to a shop with a presss and luckily I have another car to drive.
First pic show condition of one of the holes of the other studs.
Second is where I am at right now.
Any insight or encouragement is appretiated
.... You see, that right there is what I needed. Step drill seems so obvious this morning....ARG! Thanks n55luvr!!!
I was just so worn out and frustrated last night. I got the hole started with a center drill and used slightly larger and larger bits till there was no more counter bore left, and my drill wouldn't cut new metal at the larger drill size. I figure if I can get to the side with a file on one side might be able to get it done.
Broke out the 1/2" corded Milwaukee drill, put the step drill and snuck up on the wall, switched to straight drills, worked up to 1/2". tried to peel the stud head off the back with a cold chisel, had to open th hole up a bit more by angling the drill till it finally succomed, WTF! Got one more, will get it tomorrow...
Maybe put a little anti-seize on the knurled part of the new studs just in case you need to take them out again. I live in a dry climate so my stud replacement were a lot easier.
Oklahoma isn't too bad typically, but this truck is from Iowa, and these are not the first rusted bolts I've had to deal with on this rig. I'm going to be an expert at dealing with these issues by the time I'm done with her!
Funny you say that, prior to picking up my rusty 2004 LC I was a novice at drilling out broken bolts and rethreading them.
I am sad to say that I have become an expert. I've broken so many bolts on this thing it's comical. I keep a huge mason jar full of the rusty bolt heads and stripped bolts. The worst areas on my truck have been all the skid plates, all the sway bar linkage and and mounting points on the frame. On the bright side, those all have new OEM bolts and tons of anti-seize has been used. Should be good for another 25 years.
I have also grown very fond of a penetrating oil called Kroil. It's good stuff and probably the best penetrating oil I've used to date.
I am sad to say that I have become an expert. I've broken so many bolts on this thing it's comical. I keep a huge mason jar full of the rusty bolt heads and stripped bolts. The worst areas on my truck have been all the skid plates, all the sway bar linkage and and mounting points on the frame. On the bright side, those all have new OEM bolts and tons of anti-seize has been used. Should be good for another 25 years.
I have also grown very fond of a penetrating oil called Kroil. It's good stuff and probably the best penetrating oil I've used to date.
Got the last one this afternoon, alterbated between center-drill and straight drills untill i broke through the back of the stud. I don't think the strep drill will handle the pressure on its tip, that's why I drilled all the way through first. Took the step drill to the diameter smaller than the edge of the hole, then straigjt drill through. That created a very thin wall, and allowed the chisel pry the stud out.
Pic of a center drill, in case your unfamiliar.
Pic of a center drill, in case your unfamiliar.
I nicked a lug trying to get the rear rotor off yesterday while doing the rear brakes. In hopes of having the car running on Monday I went to Autozone last night and got a replacement. Using the airgun / breaker bar I have managed to get most of the lug through. There are probably 2 mm left. These last 2mm seem impossible to get through.
My concern is that the threads on the lugnuts that I am using to pull it through are getting damaged. The lug itself is fine.
Any thoughts on what could be going sideways here?
Thanks
Albert
My concern is that the threads on the lugnuts that I am using to pull it through are getting damaged. The lug itself is fine.
Any thoughts on what could be going sideways here?
Thanks
Albert
What method are you using to pull the new stud through?
I've done a couple of these over the last month, and I'm using a M16 nut and a flat washer for a spacer, and then pulling it through with an M14 nut with the same thread pitch as the lug nuts. I then used a 22mm socket on a big breaker bar. It's worked like a charm for the ones I've replaced. I also installed a replacement stud from Autozone, so I'd bet they're the same PN.
One of my rear lug nuts was cross threaded and sheared, so I had to remove it. Going to follow this thread to replace. I wanted to comment though to let others know how I got it out. The bolt was unmoved after over an hour of hammering. I ended up using a tie rod puller and that did the trick. Much easier than hammering.
Another lug nut woe: one lug nut was so stuck that it took me 2 days of frequent PB blaster applications followed by rigorous loosening with a 2' breaker bar and a 4' cheater (floor jack bar) and with knocking the but to try and loosen it, also going back and forth to loosen it. Finally I tried heating the nut with a lighter for about a minute and then it came loose (with a 4' bar...). Thankfully it actually came out without ruining the stud, but I did order a 14x1.5 die to repair it.
Thanks for the guide.
Another lug nut woe: one lug nut was so stuck that it took me 2 days of frequent PB blaster applications followed by rigorous loosening with a 2' breaker bar and a 4' cheater (floor jack bar) and with knocking the but to try and loosen it, also going back and forth to loosen it. Finally I tried heating the nut with a lighter for about a minute and then it came loose (with a 4' bar...). Thankfully it actually came out without ruining the stud, but I did order a 14x1.5 die to repair it.
Thanks for the guide.
I had read this thread prior to tackling a couple of lugs on the rear of my 100 too.
While removing the wheel one lug nut was just daring me to put some torque on it so it could really jam up and break loose internally (as another had done, requiring me to cut it apart in several steps).
Instead I drilled a hole in the center of the lug nut cap and sprayed and squirted PB and ATF inside. This really improved the situation and allowed me to get it off without cutting ~ still needed a new lug of course.
While removing the wheel one lug nut was just daring me to put some torque on it so it could really jam up and break loose internally (as another had done, requiring me to cut it apart in several steps).
Instead I drilled a hole in the center of the lug nut cap and sprayed and squirted PB and ATF inside. This really improved the situation and allowed me to get it off without cutting ~ still needed a new lug of course.
Tried this today. Make sure your parking brake isn't engaged(this isn't mentioned in the guide).
I got a little over half of the knurled end of the stud into the hub, then backed the lug nut out to check the threads. Somehow, the new stud was stripped. Any recommendations on how to avoid this when I try again tomorrow? Freeze the new wheel studs first?
I got a little over half of the knurled end of the stud into the hub, then backed the lug nut out to check the threads. Somehow, the new stud was stripped. Any recommendations on how to avoid this when I try again tomorrow? Freeze the new wheel studs first?
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Why tool did you use to tighten the nut?
