how to build a toyota, solid axle, rock crawler thread.

[missouriman]

Hi Missouriman,

I like your thread and build. Everyone has different ideas on what is best and the more information that is out there, the better. This helps all of us build better trucks. So, keep posting build info, runs and stuff. That way we all can learn from other's experiences.

thanks, I am not saying my way is the best, just sharing what I have learned, what is working.

I had hoped that others would join in and share also.
we are still pure Toyota, and the Toyota after market parts.

looking back I may have taken a different route if some one had shared all this with me. but by the time I learned, I had to much invested, so not backing out now.

Toyota's are tough, the after market stuff, some work better then others. some times spending just that extra 100 or 200 bucks can save you so much more money later.

that is the input I am looking for with this post.

I want to say thank you to every one for not flaming like pirate, or some other sites. I want to learn what you have learned.

so far no one has added to the build, just replies. So that makes me think that we are doing pretty good with our builds.

 

[Jonathan_Ferguson]

When installing new Axle Seals use Anaerobic Gasket Goo like Loctite 518, also you'll likely need to file the burrs down in the Axle Housing as the Seal surface will have been punished when a Birf breaks or the surface will become mangled trying to get the old seal out.

http://3rdrock4x4.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=36353#p36353

 

[missouriman]

Man I wish we could buy a 4 door diesel solid axle new truck.

 

[Red90runner]

Man that's a dope thread, Church...

 

[missouriman]

Man that's a dope thread, Church...

engrish please.

are you saying . yo, dope your flapping is sic. good bible yo.??

 

[waskillywabbit]

Looks like you have spent a lot of time on the truck...now spend 15 minutes and cut all those old brackets off the front axle that you don't need anymore.

 

[missouriman]

Looks like you have spent a lot of time on the truck...now spend 15 minutes and cut all those old brackets off the front axle that you don't need anymore.

they are long gone.

 

[waskillywabbit]

they are long gone.

Thank you.

 

[missouriman]

come on guys and gals..
there has to be more stuff people can add to this thread.

waiting for the weather to warm up so I can get my 4.7 rear twin shift in.

oh going to cut up our tires.
the other day on the snow covered icy roads, with lockers I went into the ditch twice before driving back home.

going to do the V on the big center lugs.

man, little slip.. side ways. done, running up the ditch to get back on to the road..
I was going less then 20 mph.

 

[liljlandon]

Heres my 2cents about general fab. PLAN PLAN PLAN PLAN.

I measured about 30 different times and still messed up by .5"

When have an idea, draw it out. Or do this via google sketchup.


Then when you have done that, and measured some more (i cannot emphasize that enough)
You begin the build.
I have pictures of the build, but they are in a camera that suffered the heat of a stick welder and molten metal create. Its pretty much toast.

Material is 1/4" plate, cut with a oxy-acet. torch and welded with an anceint lincoln cracker box. Shows me that anything is possible with enough pateince
Heres my cell phone pics of the finished project:






Its fun to get hi centered now, i grin
And it weighs more than id like to admit, but helps with COG.
Thanks for paying atttention

 

[missouriman]

looks good thanks for adding onto this post.

I may have ramped it a bit vs the square edge.

looks pretty heavy duty and home made... like the gravel drive also.

 

[liljlandon]

yeah, we had a buggy, cruiser and heep in the garage that day, so i was half in half out.

as for safety, those comfy foam puzzlemaster pads tend to catch fire, and they stick to what ever bodypart they touch when they are on fire too... Ask me how i know

 

[tlcruiser66]

Great write-up there missouriman, thanks for sharing.

I've done just about the same thing on my 85 4runner but have to finish up the front bump stops, how long did you make yours and how far back did you set them from the original location?

 

[missouriman]

Great write-up there missouriman, thanks for sharing.

I've done just about the same thing on my 85 4runner but have to finish up the front bump stops, how long did you make yours and how far back did you set them from the original location?

with the lift, moving the front axle forward 3.5 inchs and the fact that the axle moves back ward under compression they ended up in the same spot.

I put on a 3.5 inch lift. the hydro assist cylinder hit the oil pan pretty hard. so I lowered the bump stop 2.75 inches.. 3 when you include the 1/4 inch plate on the end of it.

this is on our two current trucks. yep, two of them, dual cased, stock front and 4.7 rear with twin shift in the rear and 5.29 gears. locked front and rear. longs. longs lock out gears. 36 inch sx tires.
bud built transfer case mounts, chained the motor mounts,


lot rather lift a tire then poke a hole in the oil pan.

doing cages for the toys right now.

 

[yotachad]

Do you have more info on the front bumper? I dont like tube bumpers! I like how close yours sit!

 

[Dedtruk]

Do you have more info on the front bumper? I dont like tube bumpers! I like how close yours sit!

Great thread Missouriman! Thanks! Dimensions, how you built/plans on that front bumper? Love to copy it if you don't mind the sincerest form of flattery ...

 

[missouriman]

I will have to dig around for the tablet that I wrote every thing down on.
no real plans. just started in with the idea.
winch box mount I had bent out of 1/4 inch steel.
braces 1/4 inch
(wings, outer part of bumper) 3/16.
up rights 1/4 inch
the bar above the winch is a bolt in, so you can get the winch out.
the other bars are dom, that I chose for size. middle is same as the bolt in.
the next is slightly smaller and like 1/4 inch thick!!
the outer is I think 1 or 1 1/4 inch od and also like 3/16 inch thick.
way over kill but I really think they made the bumpers a lot stronger. my wife has twisted hers pretty good and it popped right back into shape.

here are some more pictures.

remove grill.
weld a brace across the radiator lower cross brace and remove the stock one.

I cut the stock bumper front frame mounts right at the upper bumper hole.
welded a 1/4 plate that I cut from frame rail to frame rail.

set the winch plate box on the cut stock mounts and tack welded it on.
then built out from there.

I got the angle cut by holding the long piece of steel up and using a 1.5 inch wide strip against the winch mount box. and marked how much to cut off the back side.
hope that makes sense.

here you can see that I welded a old electric fence post across to replace the stock brace.

hole for moving the steering box way forward

frame brace and stock mounts

forming the ends, I also welded a plate on the outer edge of this, then heated it with a torch and beat it into the shape that I wanted.

I used tri angle 1/4 inch steel and braces to replace the stock ones!!!! it was just easy to use the stock mounts while mocking every thing up.

here you can see the mounts. and braces.
three tri angles to the 1/4 frame to frame brace and a center side to side brace up under the winch mount box.

steering box moved forward and up.

How to save your self from having to buy longer soft brake lines.
i thought this was a good money saver!! and uses stock lines.

 

[cavemancaleb]

Awsome thread!
I vote sticky.

 

[missouriman]

my original write up.



removing 85 transfer interlock pin for twin shift
you can get it out pretty easy, ask questions if you do not under stand what I am saying.

if you are going to 4.7 gears, you will all ready have it this far apart. so this will not do you much good, but if you are using the stock gearing this will save you 3 or so hours.

to start, you have just the case out, that is one case not bolted up as duals.
take the shifter out.

take a good parts magnet the ones that are on the extension rod.
now pull that (drivers side) shift rail forward with a screw driver. you may have to shift the other rail to do this.
Mark it at the edge of the case if you are cutting the rail for dual cases. use tape.

now stuff, just a bit, not to much of a paper towel or rag down and around to help the magnet catch the roll pin. remember you have to get the rag back out, so don't get carried away.
I think that it is a 3/16 punch that I used.

Also this is the shift rail that you have to some times cut flush with the case, in the forward position for dual cases. (drivers side.) a dremel tool with the cut off wheel is what i used.

remove the 6mm shift rail spring bolt. remove the spring, make sure you get the little ball also.

now knock out the roll pin and pray to the Toyota gods that the magnet catches it. mine did.

now make sure you mark the shaft or look close at how it went in.. don't rotate it.
pull it part way out. don't pull it out of the shift fork.
cut it off where you marked it.

I used paper towels to hold the shift fork and rail forward and my magnet that caught the roll pin. I then tipped the transfer case on it's side to dump out the inter lock pin. it is pill shaped and about 3/4 inch long.

now slide the shift rail back in.. make sure that you have the roll pin hole lined up.

beat the roll pin back in. I used a needle nosed vice grip so I would not loose it into the case.
took several tries to get it in to the hole that I could not see... don't mess up the roll pin by beating on it.

now put the shift ball and spring back in.

I learned this because I could not get the rear out put flange off, no matter how I tried. I even tried 4 foot breaker pipes, bars what ever.

so sat down and looked at the pictures in the manual for a long time before I saw what I could do.

catching the roll pin is important. cutting the rail is important, getting the shift rail and shift fork holes lined up to put the roll pin back in is important.

when installing the shifter.. have the two shift fork (holes) lined up to make a square.

install two bolts, one each side of the shifter and make sure that they move OK.
It is possible, I did it, to get the shifter fingers in front of the shift slots that they need to be in.

I tried the trail gear aw some shift springs and I could pick up the transfer case by the shifter and it was not shifting, to give you an idea of how hard or strong those springs are.

my wife could not move the shifters at all with out using both hands!

it should be mentioned that the heavy duty springs increase the shift resistance by about a factor of 10 times as much pull to shift!!!

I would, if you are worried about it jumping out of gear. stretch the stock springs, no more then 1/8 inch and install them.

I would only use the heavy springs if you have a problem with the case jumping out of gear, like in rock buggy racing where the weight of the shifter, and hitting something hard, will knock it out of gear.

also the shift boot and mount require tolerances that are very close. I marked and cut the hole about 1/4 inch off. It moved when I mounted up the transfer case cross member. I re cut the side that was hitting, the included mount ring is to narrow, and now have to make a new (boot ring) to cover that part of the hole.

I would like to see the present trail gear, mount ring included and a second mount ring about 1 to 2 inches wide included in the kit.
the present ring would go under the boot and be pop riveted to the wider, (go's on top) ring that I am suggesting.
For those of us that cut the hole to big!!

I hope that this helps others that are trying to go to the twin shift.


their write up with pictures.


http://www.trail-gear.com/pdf/107500-1-k.pdf

 

[dieselcruiserhead]

Really good stuff, pretty much covers it all as I've seen/read over the years...