how to build a stroker (1 Viewer)

[MoGas]

If the rods came out of a 400 use them, they should be the 5.565 flavor.
I can get you casting #'s for the 400 rods this evening so you can be sure. (If 350 rods had been used the 400 pistons would have to have been custom or else the pistons would protrude)

 

[rusmannx]

the guy who got me the crank/rods says that he doesn't bore his over .30, just installs the crank.
i figure if im in there anyway i would have it bored over, but what does it do to the torque/HP if it isn't bored over?

 

[Eskimo]

boring the block .030 over is just to give you a fresh piston wall surface... think of it as a "clean sheet of paper"

 

[MoGas]

Your main reason to bore is to clean the bores and put them back in round. But you have to do all the work in order:
1 strip block down, remove freeze plugs and cam bearings (special tool required so as not to damage cam journals usually done by machinist)
2 vat block to get it clean to the casting
3 pressure wash block to remove cleaning agent
4 mic bores. This is where you will find out what your overbore will be to bring it back in round.
After you know what size you will be going to then you purchace pistons because the piston manufacturers aren't always perfect so the bores will have to be cleaned up to make sure the skirt to wall clearances are correct.

So take the block to a shop, ask how much to remove cam bearings, vat ,wash, inspect and measure the block to see what size pistons to buy. shouldn't be more than 75-100 bucks.

If you have an old piston from the 350, clean the top of it and look for: STD. or .030 or some other numbers to help you determine if the block has beem bored already.

Hope this helps

 

[rusmannx]

quite positive that the engine has never been taken apart before.
i checked those numbers MoGas, and i think this engine is the one with the heads you said to stay away from.
should i go look for other heads in a wrecking yard?
if i need to do this should i just try to find the 2.02's?
what does a 2.02 do for the motor versus a 1.94?

and one final question.
being that i haven't picked up the engine yet (still in my friends possesion until i'm ready to rebuild), how do you move something like this?

 

[MoGas]

You will need a pickup and a few friends at least to move the engine if you are going to do it by hand. you can rent an engine hoist that tows behind your vehicle for 20 bucks a day in my area. You could also buy a hoist for around 200 dollars then you have one. You will also need an engine stand to assemble your engine on. DO NOT BUY THE CHEAPO 3 POINT STANDS spend the extra 30 bucks for the safety of a four point.

Here is a great deal>> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=35000&item=2457039401

Did you pull the rocker arm covers to chech the casting #'s on the heads? That is the only way to know for sure.



2.02 refers to the dimeter of the intake valve in inches. What the main difference is that 2.02 heads flow more CFM of air/fuel mixture than 1.94's.

Generally, 2.02's have smaller combustion chambers resulting in higher compression ratios.
Usually heads with the 2.02 valves are considerably more expensive due to their popularity. If you want to maintain a budget, use the 1.94's #3398993 Mexican built.
There are plenty of them available and they are relatively inexpensive.

You have plenty of time to find heads though as you still have to disassemble an engine and get it to the shop. Get the short block done first then concentrate on heads.

 

[Rice]

As mentioned by Eskimo and MoGas, the boring of a block has less to do with horsepower (you'll gain about 4 or 5) and more to do with getting a nice clean ROUND cylinder for new rings to seat in. Remember, after miles of driving those old cylinders now have a ridge on top, are oversized, are out of round, and smooth. Smooth sounds like a good thing but will keep new rings from seating. Do bore the engine and be sure your machine shop uses torque plates when they hone the cylinders. Like MoGas said, take the block in the find how how much boring is needed (0.030, 0.040) and do it BEFORE you buy new pistons so you'll know what size to get.

The 400 crank (once you get it turned down) will do fine for a low RPM street/trail rig. Be sure to call around ... many machine shops don't have what it takes to turn down a crank. Some will simply farm out to other shops.

If you're thinking about having the machine shop clearance everything the fact is it wouldn't cost that much more to just have them bolt the bottem end together for you since most of the parts will already be in the engine.

As for the heads, as mentioned, there is a lot of other stuff to do before worrying about them, however, 1.94 heads (smaller valves) are better at developing low RPM torque and 2.02 valves allow the engine to breath better at high RPM's but can cost you a loss of low RPM torque. What to get is a function of what you wish the engine to do. Trails? Stick with 1.94 and be sure to use a dual plane intake manifold. With that crank you won't want to turn over about 5500 anyway or you may suffer from what folks in racing call oil pan failure and you'll drive over your crank.

Enjoy.
Rice

 

[rusmannx]

a friend of mine (just talked with him) told me he had his stroker built (by the same guy i am planning on) for $3,200. i think that seems pretty decent. i kinda want to dissasemble and reasemble myself (other friends) to learn what i can.

is it worth it just have the machinest do the whole thing, or is it worth it to get the learning?

this guy (randy's engine in utah) machined my F engine, but someone else put it together for me, and randy only charged like 1300, and i think that included machining and parts.

any thoughts?

 

[theo]

It takes some skill and common sense, but you'd learn a lot. Let a good machine shop recondition the block, install the camshaft, and rebuild the heads. If you do the rest you'll learn a lot.

Be prepared to buy or borrow a torque wrench. A ring compressor is worth the little money it costs. You might need a puller, maybe a couple of other special tools. Nothing too extraordinary though.

When you finally have the block and the rebuild kit sitting in front of you, ask here for advice about installing stuff. You'll get all the help you can stand.

 

[rusmannx]

planning to borrow friends tools to do the work.

 

[rusmannx]

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=33616&item=2457218198

any good?

i have sourced a 400 crank with rods for $100, but this way i wouldn't have to have it fitted for the 350 journals, or notched for clearance.

 

[MoGas]

You would still need to clearance the bottoms of the bores so the connecting rods bon't hit.
Doesn't seem like a bad price. Nodular steel cranks are stronger than standard cast, and this one has been Nitrated. Not bad.

 

[Rice]

Yes, still have to clearance the block and the rods. As mentioned before, be extra sure your machine shop checks the crank for journal taper and roundness. If you find it has to be turned down to fit specs then the nitride process is gone. If the crank is cut for 5.7 inch rods it means you can use rods from a 350 but MUST buy 383 pistons. If you stick with the 400 crank and use the 400 rods (5.565") clearance of the rods is not as big an issue because original 400 rods were cut down at the cap and used a shorter bolt (i.e. weaker)

The best USA made crank for the money is Callies but they don't do cast cranks (Their Dragonslayer is $750 and is bullet proof to 8000 RPM). For cast stuff you may wish to check out Scat. It's a chinese crank but is finished here in the US. Their 9000 series has an ok reputation for strength and being on spec. plus low cost.

 

[TJDIV]

I wouldn't put a stroker in a Cruiser. Especially not with stock running gear behind it.

Keeping your engine building costs down is irrelevant. You WILL be spending A TON of money. Laugh now, but I promise you the money will gravitate toward your Cruiser.

Now, if you're not putting it in a Cruiser, or have beefed up gear along with the engine...that's going to be fun.

Either way, good Luck.

 

[rusmannx]

this motor IS going in a cruiser.... that is, a cruiser body and frame. i'm not planning on running anything stock. most likely sm465, probably some kind of dual tcase setup... something heavy. if i break stuff........... then it must be a typical day on the trail.

 

[TJDIV]

I hear that. At least you're ready for it. The guy I bought my Cruiser from couldn't figure out why the transfer case was screaming.

Turns out he started a destruction process that I inevitably finished. SBC350 being, of course, my tool used to destroy the stock gear.

Good Luck.

 

[hammerhead]

[quote author=TJDIV link=board=1;threadid=10664;start=msg97220#msg97220 date=1075525797]
SBC350 being, of course, my tool used to destroy the stock gear. [/quote]
An SBC has never done any damage by itself. It takes liberal application of the loud pedal to do that.

 

[TJDIV]

right, I agree, but that's like dating a hot stripper and only playing with her boobs. 8)

 

[hammerhead]

Funny

Actually mine is way torquey for a 350 and a little finesse goes a long way. The dunes are the only place where I get a bit happy on the loud pedal. My front paddles are 12.5s and rears are 22.5s. Talk about throwing sand. Wwaaahhooooo... you'd better be wearing your goggles if the top is off.

 

[rusmannx]

i've been searching ebay for some classy goggles already.... something like those round gunner style lenses.