bluecruiser
SILVER Star
Looks like you are camping on the sun. So much light!
How to: adding 100 series hatch/camping/work lights (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter FullyLitLED
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Another pic of mine in use down in Baja.....
Is that std procedure to remove your license plate when in baja?
Looks like he has it on his tire swingout.
FullyLitLED
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- Thread starter
- #105
Nice to see people using the camping lights! I used mine at the dunes this weekend as well! Three day camping trip with the coworkers and family to relieve some stress from the past two months or so...
Good point I wasn't even thinking that.
LJ when are you going to do the courtesy switch mod? 
TLC FAQ - Camping / Hatch Light Wiring
TLC FAQ - Camping / Hatch Light Wiring
FullyLitLED
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- Thread starter
- #108
LJ when are you going to do the courtesy switch mod?
Why you no tell me this! I guess thats next on the to do list
3D FJ said:
Yup.... it mounts to the swingout under the tire...
Another impressive write up Rob. Have you considered being a technical writer?
Question for Rob or anyone that has used the courtesy switch trigger. Does the courtesy lamp timer (30 min?) cause the rear dome (and thus the new hatch LEDs) to go out? Or is it on as long as the hatch or a rear door is open? I can't remember if the rear dome is on a timer and/or same duration as the front dome.
If so, has anyone wired an override switch so the hatch courtesy switch will automatically turn the lights on but then use an override if you want them on longer?
Obviously having an override would defeat the on/off functionality of the hatch switch when it is on.
In my case (Whelen negative-triggered lamps), if needed, I will wire another 3-pos. switch between the relay post 85 and hatch and switch the ground based on some variation of the following:
Pos. 1 - hatch switch active
Pos. 2 - hatch switch disabled, continuous ground
Pos. 3 - both open, circuit disabled
If so, has anyone wired an override switch so the hatch courtesy switch will automatically turn the lights on but then use an override if you want them on longer?
Obviously having an override would defeat the on/off functionality of the hatch switch when it is on.
In my case (Whelen negative-triggered lamps), if needed, I will wire another 3-pos. switch between the relay post 85 and hatch and switch the ground based on some variation of the following:
Pos. 1 - hatch switch active
Pos. 2 - hatch switch disabled, continuous ground
Pos. 3 - both open, circuit disabled
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Your Dome light should be on a time delay (at least mine is).
If you have kids (especially little ones) then having these lights tied into the courtesy switch is probably not the best set-up. Especially if like me, you do not like having blasting light when they are sleeping in the back. Just something for those of you with kids to think about. Yeah there are ways to work around that... but it is just overly complicating something that doesn't need to be.
Options are always good though....
If you have kids (especially little ones) then having these lights tied into the courtesy switch is probably not the best set-up. Especially if like me, you do not like having blasting light when they are sleeping in the back. Just something for those of you with kids to think about. Yeah there are ways to work around that... but it is just overly complicating something that doesn't need to be.
Options are always good though....
Absolutely true once you factor in the cost/effort to install a relay, two switches, extra wiring, increase in number of possible failure points etc. KISS.
That said I'm going with overly complicated, which will be that much more trouble to root cause/fix if anything ever goes wrong. I'm an idiot
BTW it occurred to me that rather than adding a second switch I could just tie into the rear dome switch since it already has the ON, ON (timed) and OFF functionality built-in. But I think I'm going with a second switch to have the hatch and rear dome independent of each other. As you said, "Options"...
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Here are your answers...
My circuit design gives you on/off via the hatch open and close. You can override the "on" with the on-off-on selector switch at any time. You can leave the hatch up and turn them off.
The 30 minute time is controlled by the Body ECU and has no control over the hatch lights. The Courtesy switch is a simple passive design signaling ground to the Body ECU nothing more. Your newly minted camping lights are not effected by the 30 minute dome light time out.
If you want direct technical support for your specific install hit me up here TLC FAQ - Camping / Hatch Light Wiring
My circuit design gives you on/off via the hatch open and close. You can override the "on" with the on-off-on selector switch at any time. You can leave the hatch up and turn them off.
The 30 minute time is controlled by the Body ECU and has no control over the hatch lights. The Courtesy switch is a simple passive design signaling ground to the Body ECU nothing more. Your newly minted camping lights are not effected by the 30 minute dome light time out.
If you want direct technical support for your specific install hit me up here TLC FAQ - Camping / Hatch Light Wiring
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Here's my "Me too!"...
Thanks Rob for the schematic and tips and Mxndrnks for providing the inspiration and sourcing the Whelen lamps.
I can confirm that although the rear dome on my 2000 appears to be on a timer and goes out after a while, the hatch lights stay lit without a bypass switch. Which I had already drilled for in the handle well for before checking back here.
Oh well, I snaked another lead and dropped it in the jack storage well. I'll probably use if for a work light or something else now that its there.
Also since I have a swing-out and the license plate lights are useless anyway I disconnected them and rewired to be on with the white lamps but not the red. And I replaced the wedge bulbs with some LEDs.
If you follow Rob's schematic and want the switch up in the handle recess, you only need to run one hot lead through the rubber cable chase and down to the rear aux outlet tap. You can use the ground point on the wiper motor and keep all the other wiring up in the hatch. That way you're drilling into the cheapest trim. I just couldn't bring myself to drill into the upper or lower rear quarter trim.
The mini relay (10A) was a cinch to stash up in the hatch. Directed Mini Relay
Anyway, yes pictures...
Thanks Rob for the schematic and tips and Mxndrnks for providing the inspiration and sourcing the Whelen lamps.
I can confirm that although the rear dome on my 2000 appears to be on a timer and goes out after a while, the hatch lights stay lit without a bypass switch. Which I had already drilled for in the handle well for before checking back here.
Oh well, I snaked another lead and dropped it in the jack storage well. I'll probably use if for a work light or something else now that its there.
Also since I have a swing-out and the license plate lights are useless anyway I disconnected them and rewired to be on with the white lamps but not the red. And I replaced the wedge bulbs with some LEDs.
If you follow Rob's schematic and want the switch up in the handle recess, you only need to run one hot lead through the rubber cable chase and down to the rear aux outlet tap. You can use the ground point on the wiper motor and keep all the other wiring up in the hatch. That way you're drilling into the cheapest trim. I just couldn't bring myself to drill into the upper or lower rear quarter trim.
The mini relay (10A) was a cinch to stash up in the hatch. Directed Mini Relay
Anyway, yes pictures...
The reason for locating the selector switch in the quarter trim (not the hatch) is to allow shutting off the lights while in the cruiser with the hatch up. If that's not an option you are interested in then less wires to the cargo area.
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This is so cool. I may do this as part of my tailgate rebuild. Do that and the attic rack at the same time.
Out of curiosity, does the red light prevent giant swarms of moths and bugs filling the back of the truck? I used a 6v electric fluorescent lantern and I was vacuuming out bug carcasses for a month.
Out of curiosity, does the red light prevent giant swarms of moths and bugs filling the back of the truck? I used a 6v electric fluorescent lantern and I was vacuuming out bug carcasses for a month.
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Interested in a cargo area lighting project on my 2005 lx. I know lighting technology has come a long way in the last few years. I'm leaning towards doing a battery-powered LED set-up so as to not have to worry about wiring and extra holes etc. Anyone have any recommendations?
FullyLitLED
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- #120
