How to: adding 100 series hatch/camping/work lights (3 Viewers)

[Mxndrnks]

Ok... Instead of starting a new thread some place, I figured I would add on to this one for others that may be trying to figure things out. I am getting ready to install my work lights. I am installing two of these red/white combo lights:

SIRENNET.COM - Whelen 3" Round LED Compartment Lights

to run off this single 3-way switch:

SPDT Automotive Round Rocker Switch Center Off Black 060-780

I have a fuse panel in the factory jack location that is on 24/7 power from my aux battery that I plan to run the power for these lights to.

My question about wiring everything up. I totally how to connect the switch and light, But, I am not sure the best way when going from the fuse panel to the switch. Would you run (1) power line and (2) separate ground lines from the fuse panel to the switch? Or would you run (1) power and ground line from the use panel to the switch and then split the ground before the switch? Or.... Is there another better solution I am not thinking of? Wiring is not my specialty... So thanks!

My goal is to have the switch when in the middle position everything is off. Then when switched to one side the red light comes on and when switched to the other side the white lights come on....

 

[SanDiegoCruiser]

Jonathan, I also have all of the parts, similar to you. Where do you plan on mounting the switch? On the hatch close to one of the lights? If so, I would just snake one power and ground wire up to the switch from the fuse panel..

I was surprise how flimsy that switch is. I may look around for a better one. That's what you get for $2 I guess.

 

[Mxndrnks]

I have everything apart today. In looking at everything, I decided the best place for the switch would be in the recess where you open the hatch from the inside. That way, I dont have to worry about it being switched on by accident. It is a pretty protected spot and there is plenty of space behind it.

 

[petrotk40]

With that switch, I'm pretty sure you run one wire from the fusebox then one wire to your white lights and one to your red lights. then bring the ground wire from the lights back to the fusebox. There shouldn't be any grounds going to the switch.

 

[RobRed]

Mxn,

That switch you have in the link is dual output (two on postions).

Center pin is hot from the fuse box. The other two pins are hot from the switch to whatever (lamp in this case) you are powering when it's active on one position or another.

You lamps can be grounded to the chassis or back to your fuse box.

 

[liveoak]

looks good. has anyone wired a switch to the license plate lights after upgrading the bulbs to led or would that not be enough light? maybe you could leave one for the plate and use the other (with a brighter bulb) for the outside light.

 

[FullyLitLED]

looks good. has anyone wired a switch to the license plate lights after upgrading the bulbs to led or would that not be enough light? maybe you could leave one for the plate and use the other (with a brighter bulb) for the outside light.

I do think that is a lot of light when you add the LED license plate lights, but the license plate lights are only on when the truck is on(atleast on mine it is).

 

[RobRed]

I do think that is a lot of light when you add the LED license plate lights, but the license plate lights are only on when the truck is on(atleast on mine it is).

Liveoak meant hooking a separate switch to the license plate lights to power them when the truck is off.

Totally doable.


[Edit]

I would use a relay and tap the the rear dome light circuit so when the hatch is open the license lights come on and when closed turn off with the dome. Function as normal with the headlight switch.

That would only give them the 30 minute on function like the rest of the dome lights. To avoid that you could add a constant switch with a diode to have manual override.

 

[FullyLitLED]

Liveoak meant hooking a separate switch to the license plate lights to power them when the truck is off.

Totally doable.

Oops, I misunderstood what he said

 

[Mxndrnks]

sorry for being dense here... I was trying to make a quick wire diagram so I can visualize what I am doing but either I am not following what is being said here or it doesnt work.

The back of each light has three wires:
Red: +12VDC / Fused @ 1A
BLK/WHT: Ground White LEDs
BLK: Ground RED LEDs

The back of the switch has 3 post:
on 1
Off
on 2

Then it will all be powered by a blue sea fuse panel.

There are two lights being operated by the one switch. If all three post of the switch are hot, what tells the light to switch from off to red or white if there is always +12VDC applied to the light and both the ground wires from the light are run to the chasis or back to the fuse block?

Showing what I dont know... I thought the red +12VDC would run from the fuse panel to the middle post of the rocker switch then from the center post of the rocker switch to each light (red wire). Then the post from the rocker switch ON1 would run to the red light on each light and the post for ON2 would run the white light on each light.

What am I missing or not understanding?

 

[petrotk40]

this is how I see it

 

[petrotk40]

There are two lights being operated by the one switch. If all three post of the switch are hot, what tells the light to switch from off to red or white if there is always +12VDC applied to the light and both the ground wires from the light are run to the chasis or back to the fuse block

is you fuse box grounded to the chassis? If so, just chassis ground, if not, run it back to the block.

so when the switch is in the middle position, the circuit is open and there is no current flow. when you flip the switch lets say to the white lights, then the current is routed from the fuse box, through the circuit you just completed by flipping the switch, to the light, then to the ground.

 

[SanDiegoCruiser]

this is how I see it

This is correct for a single light. Just duplicate this for each light, so you will have to wires coming off each side of the switch...

 

[Mxndrnks]

this is how I see it

is you fuse box grounded to the chassis? If so, just chassis ground, if not, run it back to the block.

so when the switch is in the middle position, the circuit is open and there is no current flow. when you flip the switch lets say to the white lights, then the current is routed from the fuse box, through the circuit you just completed by flipping the switch, to the light, then to the ground.

Maybe this will help:


These are the parts I have. It seems like there is something missing based on what I am getting from you guys. I run a red (positive) cable from the fuse block to the middle post of the switch. Do I need some relays between the switch and the lights? Just making sure you guys understand that the lights have both red and white in the same light. They can be switched separately so you it only lights the red or only the white. I want to be able to operate both off the same switch.

I hate electrical... Why does it always have to be so complicated.....LOL! Thanks for the help guys! I can also email you a Photoshop file or pdf if it will help of the above sketch.

 

[Mxndrnks]

this is how I see it

This is correct for a single light. Just duplicate this for each light, so you will have to wires coming off each side of the switch...

Hold it.... Hold it.... I might be slowly getting it. This is what happens when you are trained to work on mechanical side of engines and then spend the next 14 years working as an architect....

Let me add another sketch and see if I have it right.


EDIT
Yeah.... no. A soon as switch over to Photoshop, I cant make the diagram work. With there only being (1) positive wire (hot wire) for the light... I dont get how to switch between white and red.

 

[SanDiegoCruiser]

Oh.. That being the case, run a hot wire from the fuse box to each red wire on each light. Then, run a ground wire to the center switch. Then run the grounds from each light to each side of the switch x 2...

 

[RobRed]

You have ground activated lights not positive activated. We all thought you were triggering via the positive.

Your switch will get a ground in the center pin. Then each light will get their ground from the switches output. The positives will go directly to the lamps from your fuse block.

Sent from my iPad 2 using IH8MUD

 

[RobRed]

Wire the switch position 1 to all the grounds for white lights. Wire switch position 2 for all the grounds for red lights.

That will give you the control for the color choice.

Sent from my iPad 2 using IH8MUD

 

[liveoak]

looks like you will use ground for switching and wire the 12v straight to the light. run ground to center term on switch and then run 1 side of switch to the 2 white light inputs and the other side of the switch to the 2 red lights. middle position of switch would be off(no ground to lights). oh robred already said it.

 

[RobRed]

Mxn if you need more I can Skype with you or make a diagram.

Sent from my iPad 2 using IH8MUD