How should a UZJ100 drive?

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Have you tried rotating the tires to see if the issue persists? After an alignment mine wondered to the right as soon as i let the steering wheel go. I swapped the front tire and its gone. Still need an alignment as steering wheel is to the left but vehicle tracts straight.

Also, have you tried to dispute the charges to your credit card company from those places? They didn't fix anything.
 
The only suspension mod I have done is cranking the torsion bars to level it out. The truck drove like I have described before cranking the t-bars.

I'd bet your steering rack and bushings were worn contributing to part of the issue. The leveling is the other part as that decreases caster, which has a direct impact to the symptoms you're seeing, and contributing to the vehicles sensitivity to road crown/imperfections.

You may want to also check out the sway bar bushings. These have been known to degrade and cause pulling and stability issues.

Less likely directly causing your issue, but check if the vehicle has a lean due to tired springs. This may require tweaking the torsions and/or new rear springs/trim packer.

In regards to the clunk, this is a very common trait for all Toyota/Lexus 4x4. As mentioned earlier, it's the rear drive shaft slip joint. It should be greased (2-4 pumps) with every oil change. Don't overdue it, as the points is not to "fill" the slip joint, causing it to no longer give when needed, destroying the transfer case.
 
Have you tried rotating the tires to see if the issue persists? After an alignment mine wondered to the right as soon as i let the steering wheel go. I swapped the front tire and its gone. Still need an alignment as steering wheel is to the left but vehicle tracts straight.

Also, have you tried to dispute the charges to your credit card company from those places? They didn't fix anything.

Yeah, the tires were cross rotated on the second trip to Toyota. I don't think it's the tires. It's not consistently going in one direction.
 
I'd bet your steering rack and bushings were worn contributing to part of the issue. The leveling is the other part as that decreases caster, which has a direct impact to the symptoms you're seeing, and contributing to the vehicles sensitivity to road crown/imperfections.

You may want to also check out the sway bar bushings. These have been known to degrade and cause pulling and stability issues.

Less likely directly causing your issue, but check if the vehicle has a lean due to tired springs. This may require tweaking the torsions and/or new rear springs/trim packer.

In regards to the clunk, this is a very common trait for all Toyota/Lexus 4x4. As mentioned earlier, it's the rear drive shaft slip joint. It should be greased (2-4 pumps) with every oil change. Don't overdue it, as the points is not to "fill" the slip joint, causing it to no longer give when needed, destroying the transfer case.

So, an alignment doesn't correct for the cranking of the torsion bars? It has been aligned 3 times since the rack replacement and t-bar crank.
 
So, an alignment doesn't correct for the cranking of the torsion bars? It has been aligned 3 times since the rack replacement and t-bar crank.

There is a limited amount of caster correction in the factory adjustment. If you crank the torsion bars too far, the required correction can exceed the amount of adjustment available.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/attachments/100-20series-20alignment-pdf.1213561/

(In my experience with the local dealer, they don't seem to worry too much about trying to adjust caster)

If you've run out of caster adjustment:

Drop the front end a bit, by reducing the amount of cranking that you did on the torsion bars.
or
Look into some aftermarket UCAs that allow you to add some caster back (I'd do some careful reading on this forum before heading down this path, as there are differing opinions on this solution)​
 
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So, an alignment doesn't correct for the cranking of the torsion bars? It has been aligned 3 times since the rack replacement and t-bar crank.

If you crank the torsion bars too much, the front end will be squirrley even if the alignment is good.
The front end needs to be lower than the rear by about 1.5 inches.

If the front end is higher or the same height as the rear, the steering will feel very light and will require constant input as you describe.
 
If you crank the torsion bars too much, the front end will be squirrley even if the alignment is good.
The front end needs to be lower than the rear by about 1.5 inches.

If the front end is higher or the same height as the rear, the steering will feel very light and will require constant input as you describe.

Ok. That may be my issue then. It sits pretty level. Ill have to take some measurements and make adjustments. I will need an alignment again correct?
 
There is a limited amount of caster correction in the factory adjustment. If you crank the torsion bars too far, the required correction can exceed the amount of adjustment available.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/attachments/100-20series-20alignment-pdf.1213561/

(In my experience with the local dealer, they don't seem to worry to much about trying to adjust caster)

If you've run out of caster adjustment:

Drop the front end a bit, by reducing the amount of cranking that you did on the torsion bars.
or
Look into some aftermarket UCAs that allow you to add some caster back (I'd do some careful reading on this forum before heading down this path, as there are differing opinions on this solution)​

I read this thread before I cranked the bars. Thought it would be ok after an alignment. Maybe i cranked them too far.
 
Ok. That may be my issue then. It sits pretty level. Ill have to take some measurements and make adjustments. I will need an alignment again correct?
If it sits level that might be your problem. You want a rake (front lower than the rear)
 
Ok. That may be my issue then. It sits pretty level. Ill have to take some measurements and make adjustments. I will need an alignment again correct?
Yes, you will need another alignment.

It sounds like our cruisers are set up similarly. I have adjusted the tbars and have 3/4" forward rake and a new steering rack. My local tire shop was able to adjust the castor into spec after I fiddled with it. The truck drives perfectly straight.

You may need to inspect the rear control arm bushings. A loose rear axle can feel like loose or wandering steering. Unfortunately the control arm bushings cannot be replaced and a new control arm will need to be purchased (unless somebody knows of an aftermarket alternative).
 
Thanks for all of the help everyone! I'll check all of the fore mentioned areas of concern when I get a chance.
 
Take it to a wheel alignment shop that specializes in problem wheel alignments. Most alignments the dealers would get would be sublet out as "toe and go", quick and dirty toe adjustment so it doesn't rot the tires off and leave the rest. Sad but true.
 
CruiserPek , have you found the cause of the problem ? interesting thread , I have had the same problem for years ! And it still rides like crap. The LC is all over the road , pulls to the left and the right ,and is really not very safe to drive. Good news is that not many have this problem , in fact , most talk of how nice the ride is. So there must be a fix. I have the 100 HDJ with AHC ,100% stock. I have changed every bushing , ball joint , front and rear, steering rack , AHC parts , tried different tires — and still , not acceptable ride. Only thing that makes it better is smaller tires (265/70) , but It should run nice on 275/70 . I currently have michelins , like you. Toyota told me the same - thats the way they are - big cars , big tires bla bla. Well after I had i crash with it , I told them we had to sort out the stability problems. They admit there is a problem , But so far they have not been able to figure it out. These are not their everyday car. after they changed the rack , the LC seems very heavy on the steering wheel . so I wonder if they did a sloppy job on the alignment. It's not over . i'll keep you updated. One other thing - the caster dosen't change by cranking the TB's - so no need for alignment for that reason
 
Well, that sucks to hear! I haven't figured out yet either. I don't have time( I'm in the middle of moving) or money to keep taking it back to Toyota/Lexus. Im just living with it at the moment.
 
I'm in Phoenix if you want to drive another and compare.

I switched from an LR3 back in Nov. My LR3 drove and felt better in every way. Unfortunatley at 125,000 it was falling apart.

The 100 series drives way more like a truck than the LR3. That may be all you're dealing with.

Jim
 
I agree. The LR3 was much nicer to drive. Mine was at 150k and was having some issues.

I may take you up on that offer Jim! I appreciate that.
 
Don't despair! You will figure it out and fall in love with your LC. And please, put some rake back in there. It can be downright dangerous in an emergency to have it cranked up that far. If you want to see why, take her to a safe area and practice some emergency maneuvers. It will be apparent right away. Good luck!
 
Its okay to give out but dont give up!

My thoughts are as follows:

First you need a front end shop to check....

Upper and lower ball joints.
Tie rod ends
Too much air pressure in tires
Sway bar end links - front and rear
Front bearings
Too little rake
Uneven wear on tires

Mine tracks excellent but i have the original steering rack and ball joints and am about to cross the 200k mark with factory sized michelins. Not sure why i added that but the lf can drive perfect on the interstate if your underlying issue is identified and repaired.
 
Don't despair! You will figure it out and fall in love with your LC. And please, put some rake back in there. It can be downright dangerous in an emergency to have it cranked up that far. If you want to see why, take her to a safe area and practice some emergency maneuvers. It will be apparent right away. Good luck!

Ok. I'll put the rake back this weekend.
 

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