How much does differential and transfer case fluid change usually cost? (1 Viewer)

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I was watching this person's YouTube video on changing the front diff. fluid and it looks like the front diff. fill plug is also using a hex key to open. I wonder if there's an alternative fill plug that fits the LX 570 which does not use the hex tool to open.
 
Thanks you for that tip. I guess I can't use it for my transmission fluid change then...I was thinking of doing that this coming spring or summer. I may have to think of something then.
Like mentioned before, if you clean it out as best you can, it doesn't matter. The contamination is so minute that it will do nothing. There will be more contamination left behind in the old oil still clinging to the gears and casing than what your introducing.
 
I was watching this person's YouTube video on changing the front diff. fluid and it looks like the front diff. fill plug is also using a hex key to open. I wonder if there's an alternative fill plug that fits the LX 570 which does not use the hex tool to open.

Looks like Kaon has both the drain and fill plugs for the front diff. I don’t know about Lexus.

 
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I was watching this person's YouTube video on changing the front diff. fluid and it looks like the front diff. fill plug is also using a hex key to open. I wonder if there's an alternative fill plug that fits the LX 570 which does not use the hex tool to open.
There’s no need to change the fill plug, it’s a design that has proven effective (and non-problematic) in Toyotas for decades.

The reason the drain gets stuck is the much larger diameter, so despite the same tightening torque, there is much much more gasket surface area to bind up. That’s also why tapping the edge of the original drain plug does a good job of freeing it up if it’s stuck.. disturbing the very part that is making it stick.

All of that said, it’s still good practice to make sure you can loosen the fill plug before you loosen the drain. That way you don’t find out you can’t add fluid after all the fluid is dumped out. Not that this is a common problem on 200s, but the best way to handle things in general.
 
what's the best solution to clean the Motive Products 1735 Power Fill Pro Fluid Transfer Pump so that it does not contaminate when I use it with other type of fluids?
Did you read the manual? I have a Motive Products Brake System Power Bleeder and in the manual it says to flush with denatured alcohol. I'd bet your manual says the same thing since many of the components are common between all the various Motive pumps, tanks, and lines.
 
Did you read the manual? I have a Motive Products Brake System Power Bleeder and in the manual it says to flush with denatured alcohol. I'd bet your manual says the same thing since many of the components are common between all the various Motive pumps, tanks, and lines.
I just ordered and it's not here yet. I'm looking at some YouTube videos on it. But yes, will look at the manuals when it's here. Thanks!
 
Okay, I'm happy to report back that I have successfully change the rear/front and t-case fluid today. It took a little over 3 hours since this is my first time. I've saved around $240 doing it myself. That's not much but gaining a bit more confident to work on my own vehicle is great. However, I must thank all of you who have contributed to this thread and helped me out along the way. And last but least, I've watched this person's YouTube channel, https://www.youtube.com/@omgautos, a tone times before attempting these tasks. He's done a great job illustrating.

I have to say that the Motive transfer pump is good idea but mine leaks and the red hook thing keeps coming off. In addition, pressure gauge is not accurate. I let all the air out and it still hovering around 5.
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