EDIT...My bad...thought I read front and rear.
Like someone else mentioned earlier. The Ravenol 75W is compliant.
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How much does differential and transfer case fluid change usually cost? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Charlielj
- Start date
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EDIT...My bad...thought I read front and rear.
Like someone else mentioned earlier. The Ravenol 75W is compliant.
Here’s what I have as a set of 4. The wide design and over-capacity is comforting.
Amazon product ASIN B0117EESNC
Amazon product ASIN B0117EESNC
Unless your dealer’s Express Lube Lane uses marginally trained people and then it’s just 75w-90 from the big tank out back in everything.
To be clear, this is only partially correct.
If you have a 2008, 2009, or first part of 2010, the Owners Manual states 75w-90 for the TC and 75w-85 for diffs.
If you have a late-2010 or newer, the Owners Manual states 75w for TC.
Heritage 2020
SILVER Star
Same as Tex, my service was approx $450 for both diffs and T-case—since I didn’t provide fluids. They used Toyota spec fluids (they let me watch), and greased the other drivetrain components as well.
I had it done at 40k miles and rationalized that since I only will do it every 50k or so, it was worth not having to do given the intervals.
Note: To each their own as we may look at maintenance dollars differently.
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- Thread starter
- #26
I was watching the Car Care Nut and he seems to recommend alternatives with changing more often than the expensive one.
- Thread starter
- #27
Interestingly, my local shop here wants to charge over $615. I assumed that means he's probably going to use the genuine Toyota brand. I still have not received my quote despite reaching out to the dealer on three occasions. If it's over $615, I may decide to give it a crack and see how far I got. If I can't do it then I'll decide to take it in. I was watching this person's YouTube and he did a fantastic job showing how to change the transfer case fluid as well as other videos showing how to change the diff. fluid.
I dont think removing the cover is a pro job.
I did all the three fluid changes without any ramp, just setting my truck on AHC High.
The front differential was the only part which I had to struggle because the leverage we have under is not great. You need a breaker bar long enough and still fit under truck without too close to floor or the engine body. Rest everything is easy if you use automatic pump and power tools like power ratchets.
- Thread starter
- #29
For those stubborn bolts/nuts, would you recommend breaker bar only or can I use impact driver? I like to use power tools but at the same time, I do not want to create more work for me if that means it's going to bust the nut/bolt.
Here is what I paid at the local Toyota
dealer the last time I had it done last fall:
dealer the last time I had it done last fall:
- Replace transfer case oil every 60k -$80
- Replace rear differential oil every 60k - $80
- Replace front differential oil every 60k -$80
IF you're going to DIY, set yourself up for success. Some stuff I think makes it a game changer to go with other recommended products:
www.motiveproducts.com
Not an exhaustive list - Torque wrench for sure (with extensions), aerokroil (for front diff drain and fill bolts), new crush washers all around. If you trust someone else to do it, I would definitely make sure they used whatever appropriately spec'd fluid in the tcase as that's what can be different among MY's. 75W toyota fluid is expensive, but Ravenol 75W has also been used with good results by others.
Post results if you DIY.
1735 - Power Fill Pro 1 gal
Power Fill Pro 1 Gallon The Motive Products Power Fill Pro 1 Gallon fluid transfer pump is the quintessential solution for any mechanic's ever-present needs. Its professional-grade quality and innovative features set the bar above the competition, designed with YOUR convenience in mind. Boasting...
www.motiveproducts.com
Not an exhaustive list - Torque wrench for sure (with extensions), aerokroil (for front diff drain and fill bolts), new crush washers all around. If you trust someone else to do it, I would definitely make sure they used whatever appropriately spec'd fluid in the tcase as that's what can be different among MY's. 75W toyota fluid is expensive, but Ravenol 75W has also been used with good results by others.
Post results if you DIY.
IMO do NOT use impact tools to break the bolts on these pieces. Use penetrating oil, plastic mallet love, maybe some light heat around it, but NO impacts.
- Thread starter
- #33
IF you're going to DIY, set yourself up for success. Some stuff I think makes it a game changer to go with other recommended products:
1735 - Power Fill Pro 1 gal
Power Fill Pro 1 Gallon The Motive Products Power Fill Pro 1 Gallon fluid transfer pump is the quintessential solution for any mechanic's ever-present needs. Its professional-grade quality and innovative features set the bar above the competition, designed with YOUR convenience in mind. Boasting...
Not an exhaustive list - Torque wrench for sure (with extensions), aerokroil (for front diff drain and fill bolts), new crush washers all around. If you trust someone else to do it, I would definitely make sure they used whatever appropriately spec'd fluid in the tcase as that's what can be different among MY's. 75W toyota fluid is expensive, but Ravenol 75W has also been used with good results by others.
Post results if you DIY.
Just putting the list together in case I decided to tackle this myself and compare the cost of purchasing all the tools and supplies.
I already have:
- breaker bar
- two ramps if needed
- creeper if needed
- impact driver if needed
- torque wrench but perhaps I may need a shorter one since the space looks crowded
- RAVENOL Gear Oil DGL 75w85 GL-5 LS 1L and RAVENOL Gear Oil MTF-3 75W 1L
- Differential drain plug part #9034114012 (I'm not sure if this plug also works for the transfer case drain plug or not. Plus, I don't know if it comes with the washer either. If not, I may have to get the crush washer.)
- Fill plug (may need it in case I busted the head) for both diff. and T-case.
- Some type of fluid pump
Thank you for all your help, much appreciated!
You'll want to drain and fill on a level plane. You'd need a way to get the whole truck elevated and level - think another set of ramps, jack/jack stands, lift, etc. Without this, fluid level won't be ideal. Check threads for additional part numbers for crush washers. If you decide to do it, remove fill plug first. Every time.
- Thread starter
- #35
Just got my quote from Lexus dealer and it cost around $600 for the whole thing.
And here's my cost-comparison. I'm not sure if saving around $200 is worth putting with the struggle myself. I might have to bite the bullet and have the dealer do it.
I may have missed other items in this list to get this job done.
And here's my cost-comparison. I'm not sure if saving around $200 is worth putting with the struggle myself. I might have to bite the bullet and have the dealer do it.
I may have missed other items in this list to get this job done.
- Thread starter
- #38
Thanks for the tip! Does most dealer use genuine Toyota/Lexus fluid? And do they always use new crush washer? ...just something I questioning my self.
Look at this way though. The next time you do it yourself, it will be cheaper. The next time the dealer does it, it more than likely will be more expensive.
A new crush washer should always be used. I can't speak to your dealer, but can say some dealers use the same stuff on both diff's AND the tcase. This is a mistake for a lot of 200s as they call for 75W in the tcase and NOT 75W-90 as in the diff's.
