Hey guys I know the answer is on the forum somewhere but I can’t seem to find it with the search function. If you don’t know what the LX450 wheel weight is feel free to chime in on how much a US spec fzj80 wheel weight is I am sure it’s similar. I am looking to possibly offset increased tire weight from going up a size by going with a lighter wheel. Thanks!
How much does a factory LX450 wheel weigh?
- Thread starter LiftedLexus
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IIRC, ~26lb?
I went back a little way and found Beowolf said 21lbs, and Cruiser Dan says they weigh half the weight of the 43lbs steel wheels.
Malleus
Far west of Siegen
This should be in the Land Cruiser edition of Trivial Pursuit, 80 series category.
The wheel on the right weighed 20.25-lbs. I wouldn't be at all surprised, given that these are not machined from a billet, that the weight would vary as much as a pound either side of 20. I would estimate that the volume of the grooves on the LX450 wheels are at most half a pound, with the same variance. It looks to me that they were cut from the Land Cruiser wheels and painted. IDKFS
FWIW, I'm in the process of cleaning the wheel on the right. (it's much better now, than when I started)
The crap I've pulled off so far probably weighed something; and the wheel weights Billy Bob and Hoser put on were about half a pound.
The wheel on the right weighed 20.25-lbs. I wouldn't be at all surprised, given that these are not machined from a billet, that the weight would vary as much as a pound either side of 20. I would estimate that the volume of the grooves on the LX450 wheels are at most half a pound, with the same variance. It looks to me that they were cut from the Land Cruiser wheels and painted. IDKFS
FWIW, I'm in the process of cleaning the wheel on the right. (it's much better now, than when I started)
The crap I've pulled off so far probably weighed something; and the wheel weights Billy Bob and Hoser put on were about half a pound.
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I doubt it. Years ago I talked with an engineer from Enkei, he seemed proud of the '80 wheel. Something about spin casting, with other mumbo jumbo, resulting in a light wheel that passed JWL-T. Was looking to move to 17" for 37" tires, his comment was; most aftermarket wheels will not be as strong as the ones they make for Toyota trucks. To get the same or better durability will need to step up to forged or billet.
This has proven true, when used off-road, any wheel is going to get beat up, are prone to damage, but the Toyota wheels are durability proven.
Malleus
Far west of Siegen
I wasn't commenting on the design or manufacture, I agree with you, along with just about everything else Toyota designed for the 80 series, the wheels are beyond what could be reasonably expected. I wasn't aware they were spin cast (I thought I remembered someone claiming they were forged, which I gave serious thought to throwing a BS flag on). That makes them more homogeneous (no voids to speak of), and it's the most expensive high volume production casting method.
I simply meant to say that casting, no matter what process is used, results in variable material volumes, thus variable finished weights, especially when polished surface finishes are required. In a wheel, it's not critical because it's a rolling load completely supported by the ground. The only real consideration (aside from structural strength and integrity) is rotational balance.
I simply meant to say that casting, no matter what process is used, results in variable material volumes, thus variable finished weights, especially when polished surface finishes are required. In a wheel, it's not critical because it's a rolling load completely supported by the ground. The only real consideration (aside from structural strength and integrity) is rotational balance.
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These are definitely NOT forged, as @Golgo13 has proven in the past. He may actually have a design weight for them from the Engineering side of things. He has accessed the actual Toyota drawings to verify.
Malleus
Far west of Siegen
Now we're entering Trivial Pursuit territory...
Been a while since I looked, but I seem to recall the LC wheel is 9.4kg and the LX wheel is heavier @9.8kg. I could be off since my memory isn't that sharp lately. That is 20.7lbs and 21.6lbs respectively. They are made by different suppliers, so the designs are a little different and there is more mass in the LX.
Also, that groove is not machined, is it a cast surface. It is probably part of the reason for added mass. Its a groove on the outside, but a standing bead on the back-side.
Mass variation is around +/-1.5lbs. This is due mostly to casting variations.
Edit: @BILT4ME is correct, they are NOT forged.
Also, that groove is not machined, is it a cast surface. It is probably part of the reason for added mass. Its a groove on the outside, but a standing bead on the back-side.
Mass variation is around +/-1.5lbs. This is due mostly to casting variations.
Edit: @BILT4ME is correct, they are NOT forged.
I think you'd be surprised how little this matters, at least in seat of the pants sensor terms. I switched from the stock alloys to the Toyota steelies (42601-60361) at the same time I upgraded from the 265 Michelins to the 33" BFG skinnies. I knew there would be a difference, between the wheels and bigger tires, but you'd be hard pressed to tell where, maybe just a little difference once it got rolling in 1st gear. I'm not getting any younger and others may be more sensitive to the differences, assuming they exist beyond the theoretical. For now, in small increments I can't say you'd notice the difference other than it's theoretically possible you could. To me, that's a signal to spend money on more pressing issues, but your budget and/or desires may suggest a different answer.
@LiftedLexus consider how much weight you will save with a forged wheel over stock and what percentage that is of the overall assy. You basically have to cut out the full weight of the wheel to get to a 10% mass savings. I really wouldn't bother spending the time/money looking for a lighter wheel. This is really about as light as you're going to find.
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I have found some in the 18 pound range so maybe you guys are right the savings may not be worth the money.
I am running 295’s At2 xtremes now and was going to switch to 255 toyo Mt’s bc they are 3 pounds lighter, slightly taller (.1 inch haha), skinner (less rolling resistance), and more aggressive. So I was thinking if I can save 6 pounds overall and lessen rolling resistance bc of the skinnier profile my acceleration should be better... Allthough this would be partially offset by the increase in diameter and added rolling resistance from the more aggressive tread pattern.
My truck drivetrain is heavily modified (blower running a lot of boost, headers, full exhaust, dyno tuned with 93, water meth injection, and a snorkel if that helps performance at all haha) for more power and I just know if I would be running stock tires she would actually be a little quick... I know quick and fzj80 are not often in the same sentence.
So I realized it’s impossible to tell with so many variables but what do y’all think? Would I be gaining anything acceleration wise with the decrease in unsprung weight (~6 pounds less) and decrease in rolling resistance from the skinnier profile (going from 11.6 inches wide to 10.2 inches wide)? Or would this be negated from the increased rolling resistance from the MT pattern and my gearing being off even more from the .1 inch increase in diameter (I am still running stock 4.11’s and don’t plan on switching and don’t really need to with the tq increase).
I am going to the 255 OC MT’s no matter what though bc I keep getting stuck in this GA mud with my MT’s and trust me IH8MUD and try to avoid it but the is GA and it’s hard to do with all of my mud bogging fellow rednecks haha
Anyways all advice is much appreciated! Thanks!
I am running 295’s At2 xtremes now and was going to switch to 255 toyo Mt’s bc they are 3 pounds lighter, slightly taller (.1 inch haha), skinner (less rolling resistance), and more aggressive. So I was thinking if I can save 6 pounds overall and lessen rolling resistance bc of the skinnier profile my acceleration should be better... Allthough this would be partially offset by the increase in diameter and added rolling resistance from the more aggressive tread pattern.
My truck drivetrain is heavily modified (blower running a lot of boost, headers, full exhaust, dyno tuned with 93, water meth injection, and a snorkel if that helps performance at all haha) for more power and I just know if I would be running stock tires she would actually be a little quick... I know quick and fzj80 are not often in the same sentence.
So I realized it’s impossible to tell with so many variables but what do y’all think? Would I be gaining anything acceleration wise with the decrease in unsprung weight (~6 pounds less) and decrease in rolling resistance from the skinnier profile (going from 11.6 inches wide to 10.2 inches wide)? Or would this be negated from the increased rolling resistance from the MT pattern and my gearing being off even more from the .1 inch increase in diameter (I am still running stock 4.11’s and don’t plan on switching and don’t really need to with the tq increase).
I am going to the 255 OC MT’s no matter what though bc I keep getting stuck in this GA mud with my MT’s and trust me IH8MUD and try to avoid it but the is GA and it’s hard to do with all of my mud bogging fellow rednecks haha
Anyways all advice is much appreciated! Thanks!
If you want bragging rights, then go for lighter. It may make a measurable difference, but whether you will actually be able to feel the difference is hard to say. The way you like your truck set-up suggests this is important enough you'd want to spend the cash to do it.
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- #17
Does anyone else have advice for me?
I really don't think there is anything to gain with a lighter wheel. The truck is an underpowered behemoth as it is. A couple pounds lighter in rotating mass mesns nothing compared to the 4700lbs of inertia you start with. The majority of the rotating mass that matters is all in the tires, brakes and hubs. Lighten that stuff up and you still have 2.3tons of steel to sling around.
What is your end game?
There isn't enough power to go fast and the handling characteristics aren't good enough to maintain any real speed.
What is your end game?
There isn't enough power to go fast and the handling characteristics aren't good enough to maintain any real speed.
Follow @scottryana ....He's doing a low-weight high HP alternative on a LC.
Then do what he did.
Just keep waiting....someone will give you an answer you want to hear.
Then do what he did.
Just keep waiting....someone will give you an answer you want to hear.
No that guy is an idiot. He paid $1300 a piece for wheels that weigh almost the same as stock.
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