How many miles are too many to bother fixing (1 Viewer)

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I still put about 20K a year on it, but the power is fading, leaks are everywhere, and before I do the rear seal again, I'll see what the consensus is.
 
....... but the power is fading, leaks are everywhere, and before I do the rear seal again, I'll see what the consensus is.[/QUOTE]
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You just described every Land Rover I've ever owned. I was finally able to discard my drip pans when I bought my first Land Cruiser. :)
 
my old 60 leaked from just about every possible location but still had decent power, so I just kept on feeding it all the various truck juices it required and never gave it a second thought.

In your case, if power is seriously diminished, I would do a compression test and decide based on the results. May be time for a swap if the motor isn't holding compression.
 
I survived my rover penance, scars and nightmares only bother me when I see one with the hood up on the side of the road. My '62 has always got me back from wherever I've taken it, but the "I was here" drips are a growing reminder I need to fix it or park it out behind the house, lest the environmental ninnies start whining.
 
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If your talking about the engine.............then replace or re-build the engine when power out is too low to keep up with traffic. When you are the guy on the road and every one is past you with the one finger greeting then it time. I have know some people to get 360,000 mile out of their motors. I got 284,000 miles before I did a V8 transplant. Now getting upl to 75 MPH is not a question of if but just 10 seconds away.

Jason
 
it still goes, but I drove my son's '62 this passed week (180K), and it reminded me how much weaker mine has become. I'm doing a dry and wet compression on it now, I know it blows, burns and drips, used to be in about equal portions, but I'll see what's changed.
 
Generically, it's worth doing. It's not a Chrysler Town and Country minivan, it's a unique truck with a following and a limited production.
Putting money into it might not make the best FISCAL sense, but as having older vehicles goes, the 60's pretty good.

If you would rather have an 80, tho, now's the time to start looking at 'em.

t
 
"Love" of a vehicle is a hard thing to measure for sure. :) It really comes down to how much you wish to "invest" in your tuck and that has a lot to do with how long you plan to keep it. What you plan to do with it and for how long are the general criteria. You can invest in total rebuild of the stock motor, upgrade to a 3FE with a rebuilt or go the swap route with either diesel or V8.

Resale is also something to consider. It has yet to be determined how the resale value with a diesel or V8 stands up to a rebuilt OEM motor. It is obvious what path I chose. To me it is all about bang for the buck and reliability. I think that the 60 and 80 series are well worth putting some money into. With good power and rebuilt running gear they can easily take you 10-15 years down the road with just regular maintenance.

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I don't think the number of miles matter as much as how its been treated during those miles. I have 463k on my 62 and it doesn't leak/ runs great. As a matter of fact we have 75 mph zones on hwy in Texas and I did 80mph at 2700rpm for over 300 miles in nearly 100 degree heat a few weeks ago and it ran prefect. I keep everything flushed/changed regularly along with a good tranny cooler. Its treated me great and I couldn't be happier
 
compression #s are 165 - 180 dry. wet they're all at 175 and 180. #1 and #2 plugs have a bit of burned oil soot, but not fouled with 20K on them.
 
Don't you have a 70 Series in the garage?

It's been absconded by my daughter in law. I think if I take it for a spin, all that turbo 2LT power might assure me the '62 is just fine.
 
Compression is good. If you are blowing oil seals a lot make sure the PCV is working otherwise you pressurize the crank case and the leaking begins.

If you are low on power maybe the issue is elsewhere, valve adjustment, distributor not advancing as it should, running to rich (engine too cool), etc...

Frank
 
It's been absconded by my daughter in law. I think if I take it for a spin, all that turbo 2LT power might assure me the '62 is just fine.

The BJ74 will accelerate nicely if you make it by shifting through the gears manually. It's actually somewhat impressive by diesel standards. If you let the auto gearbox shift on its own it will drop into overdrive WAY to early and it basically dies especially if you are on any kind of incline. I have bug stains on the back where flying insects overtook me while going up a hill. :)
 
Maybe get your injectors cleaned and go through everything that isn't bolted down-

check the MAF, the temp sensors, o2 sensors, cat for clogging, etc- in other words, a really
thorough tune- up.

Oh, and a leakdown to see how the valves are.

Because your compression seems good.

t
 
When food goes in, but poop doesn't come out. Also, the yowling....

hee.

No, seriously, the ghetto way we used to do it was to loosen the inlet
to it slightly, and then start the car. If it pumped exhaust out like mad, you'd
figure it was plugged. It's kinda hard to tell- back when they were
putting cats on carbed cars, we'd often assume it was clogged, bash out
the catalyst, and bolt it all back together. But that was so 80's...

I suspect you could also rig a pressure fitting on one of the o2 sensors...

t
 
When food goes in, but poop doesn't come out. Also, the yowling....

hee.

No, seriously, the ghetto way we used to do it was to loosen the inlet
to it slightly, and then start the car. If it pumped exhaust out like mad, you'd
figure it was plugged. It's kinda hard to tell- back when they were
putting cats on carbed cars, we'd often assume it was clogged, bash out
the catalyst, and bolt it all back together. But that was so 80's...

I suspect you could also rig a pressure fitting on one of the o2 sensors...

t

Ha, yeah...too much fiber...

So, this is neither the original nor OEM CAT...it is an aftermarket Magnaflow or something, and supposedly these aftermarket CATs are considerably more fragile than the OEM.

Since I've been trying to resolve vac/carb/ignition issues, I've been concerned about frying the CAT (operating under lean conditions). I've gotten the CAT really hot a couple times while I was fumbling around trying to figure out carb/ignition stuff...I've also been replacing gaskets/check valves on the EGR/ABV systems, and am about to change out the intake/exhaust manifold gasket (I can hear the strong tick of an exhaust leak in the engine bay), so I'm sure that plugging all those holes has built up additional pressure in the exhaust.

Problem is, I don't have a baseline measurement of expected pressure flow under correct operating conditions...maybe I'll try first loosening the front of the CAT and driving it to see if performance increases. I've already done the 'dollar bill' test at the tailpipe and passed, but from what I understand that gives information more on the condition of the valves/cylinders.

Also remember reading about using IR to measure heat signature before and after CAT and if there is a large temp difference, then most likely CAT's clogged. But don't have IR gun.

Anyway, I know this is slightly off topic, but actually might be helpful for the OP to rule out since a clogged CAT would cause power loss symptoms he is experiencing...
 

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