How many are running without an idler pulley (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter chansdaman
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I am have been running without one for a couple months now with no issues and a nice quiet belt system.
On our 1993 Cruiser the belts don't even touch the idler pulley, maybe it's a non OEM alternator??? But because I knew they weren't touching on the 1993, when we purchased our 1997 Cruiser and the idler pulley was making noise, I simply removed it. The bearing is indeed bad, but there has been no problems running without it, so I probably won't replace it.
And for those still wondering how it's possible to run without it, it's because the alternator has a bracket which adjusts for belt tension. I too wonder what the idler pulley is meant to do...
And for those still wondering how it's possible to run without it, it's because the alternator has a bracket which adjusts for belt tension. I too wonder what the idler pulley is meant to do...
My idler pulley bearing just died and I pulled it today at 212K. Tightened up the belts a bit and is now quiet again. I used a sway bar bushing from my old 4runner as a spacer for the bolt. I did notice an oil leak from the oil pump cover? There was a slotted screw that holds the cover that was actually loose. If your down in that part of the engine you may want to put a small flat head driver on them to snug them up.
Idler pully
Hi all
Thanks for the heads up on this problem and this experience I had may help others.
The idler pulley on the 1FZFe 80 series stops flogging of the fan belts at high revs reducing the chance of the belts flying off as the alternator reverses the load as the motor revs drop quickly, usually it can happen around 5000rpm or above. On the Nissan 2004 alternator for example and a lot of other motors there is an Alternator pulley overide clutch that eliminates this problem.
I found using the Gates matched cogged belts there was a whine that was not there when I used OEM non cogged belts. I'm sure a lot of people have removed the pulley thinking it's faulty and or bought a new one just to find the problem still exists.
I suggest if you have the noise from cogged belts and the pulley is good, either live with it or change to OEM non cogged belts noise gone.
You don't want to be in the middle of a desert, whatever, and drop your belts. so keep the pulley on.
Cheers
Hi all
Thanks for the heads up on this problem and this experience I had may help others.
The idler pulley on the 1FZFe 80 series stops flogging of the fan belts at high revs reducing the chance of the belts flying off as the alternator reverses the load as the motor revs drop quickly, usually it can happen around 5000rpm or above. On the Nissan 2004 alternator for example and a lot of other motors there is an Alternator pulley overide clutch that eliminates this problem.
I found using the Gates matched cogged belts there was a whine that was not there when I used OEM non cogged belts. I'm sure a lot of people have removed the pulley thinking it's faulty and or bought a new one just to find the problem still exists.
I suggest if you have the noise from cogged belts and the pulley is good, either live with it or change to OEM non cogged belts noise gone.
You don't want to be in the middle of a desert, whatever, and drop your belts. so keep the pulley on.
Cheers
Talked to my Uncle FJ80Toyman this week about this, I just had mine replaced. The shop I went to says they just ditch them, he was saying that its there just to take up slack in the belt so it doesn't vibrate since its a long distance between the two points. People certainly get away not running them, but if the belt is slack, or worn you can run the risk of vibrating it right off the alternator. I elected to put a new one on, quite as a mouse.
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I just bought oem belts and both idler pullies for my LX ... Shoot
Ran into same problem a couple years ago. Local dealer was nice enough to warranty one idler pulley. On the next one they talked to one of their mechanics and decided it was the cogged belts. OEM solved the problem of the ringing idler.
Besides, the OEM belt wasn't that much more.
JMTC...
Besides, the OEM belt wasn't that much more.
JMTC...
Hey is there a trick to remove the idler pully mine has seized up and can't manage to crack the bolt at all ???
I used a half inch drive, 6 sided socket and a breaker bar. Removed my tensioner yesterday after I noticed it was intermittently turning/not turning, and making noise. Bearing was definitely bad. I'm not going to replace it.
when i got my 97 the idler was locked down and wearing the cogged belts that was on it . I changed the idler and put Dayco top cog belts on it . No noise from the belts because the cog is on the top part of belt not in the groove. works very well, the top cog is a bit more expensive but worth it. imo top cog was the only way to go as their are no close by toyota dealerships here and couldn't wait on shipping oem to where i live.got my belts at Advanced auto.
I discovered I do not have an idler pulley on my 96 when my radiator exploded and I had a whole bunch of work to do in there. I had already put 26K miles on it since I bought it, unknowing that it was missing. Turns out, I am ALSO missing the alternator belt tensioning bracket. I have to tension my belts with a log pry bar and tighten down the alternator bolts.
I have been running this combo for over 30K miles to my knowledge. I want to get the idler and tensioner and install them because that's what Mr.T designed, and I want longevity in this truck.
I have been running this combo for over 30K miles to my knowledge. I want to get the idler and tensioner and install them because that's what Mr.T designed, and I want longevity in this truck.
Oh so I talked to a 30 year Toyota Master Tech and said these pulleys were actually a design flaw and are not needed. He then took a paint marker and made a mark on my seized pulley. We then drove around for 30 minutes under different loads, speeds and cornering. We returned to the shop and not a single bit of paint was rubbed off. That being said I removed it, didn't even have to mess with the belt, and man what a joy to not hear the noise of a belt reverberating off the pulley!
I know it's an old thread but wanted to chime in for s***s and giggles. I dropped my '94 off at the stealership for a valve adjustment (the thing has 270k on the clock and I have no record of it ever being done). I got a call back that went a little something like this:
"Oh, just so you know... your idler pulley is gone."
Gone? Gone as in shot?
"Well, maybe, wherever it is. But no, gone as in missing. You don't happen to know where it went, do you?"
Turns out I've been without an idler pulley for lord knows how long. I've always wondered what was supposed to go in that little hole leaking oil. Anyways, for $80 and "20 minutes" of labor I figure it's worth it just to stop the oil leak, but I do wonder how long it's been missing!
"Oh, just so you know... your idler pulley is gone."
Gone? Gone as in shot?
"Well, maybe, wherever it is. But no, gone as in missing. You don't happen to know where it went, do you?"
Turns out I've been without an idler pulley for lord knows how long. I've always wondered what was supposed to go in that little hole leaking oil. Anyways, for $80 and "20 minutes" of labor I figure it's worth it just to stop the oil leak, but I do wonder how long it's been missing!
Notice any difference after the valve job? I had mine done 100k ago and its "due" but its more money that I want to spend on it and Im not convinced it needs it.
I'm picking it up on Tuesday, but I will certainly report back. I only recently learned that the recommended interval between valve adjustments is 100k miles or so. I'm not sure how imperative that is, but I figured if I have no idea when/if its been done on my truck and I won't have to worry about it again for a while. If it does in fact fix a few of my minor running issues, I'll be thrilled. If not, then I know not to stress about it too much 100k down the road.
When I bought my truck 7 years ago, it had an idler pulley. As of two years ago, it no longer had one. I do not know where it went or how long it has been MIA. Truck seems to run fine without it.
