How is the A442F transmission filter? (1 Viewer)

[Cañonero]

I'm about to replace my ATF and I read this:

Some people believe that all transmission filters are backflushed clean every time
the vehicle is turned off. This is a major misconception. Three-quarters of all
transmission filters today are not a simple screen, they are made of felt. A felt filter
CANNOT be backflushed.

Link to the whole article: http://www.amsoil.com/lit/filter_man_council01.pdf


I don't fell much like removing the pan, replace fiters, clean magnets, put in new gasket..., so I'd like to know if our filter is a simple screen as it's told there or a felt filter.

Also I'd like to know your opinions about the validity of those statements. Replacing the oil with the common method of disconnecting radiator line, start the engine, refill trough dipstick etc... is not a big issue, but removing the pan would.

 

[Kernal]

Our filter is a reusable fine mesh metal screen. Some mudders say drop the pan, others say frequent drain and fills is OK IIRC. One common agreement I've read here on mud is if you do a complete fluid exchange to be sure to use the type of machine that allows the tranny itself to pump the fluid and not do any sort of pressure flush.

 

[Cañonero]

Thank you Kernal.

So, if it is a metal screen, after reading Amsoil's article, we could assume that it is "backflushed clean everytime the vehicle gets turned off" unlike what would happen if it was a felt filter, couldn't we?.

I've read the same you mentioned about not using a machine that applies extra pressure.


Assuming that removing the pan and cleaning the filter is not that important (at least not every oil change), I think this could be a good procedure:

1) Remove the drain plug and flush the 6 liters that are stored there (this way we could clean at least the magnet in the plug and remove all the sediments of the bottom of the pan).

2) Refill those 6 liters trought the dipstick.

3) Disconnect the return line to the transmission after the radiator/s so the radiators get flushed as well (or somewhere in the return line even closer to the transmission), and route it to a marked transparent bucket.

4) Start the engine till the bucket is filled about two liters, then stop, refill the same quantity through the dipstick and repeat till we have replaced the 6 liters left.

I'm assuming the pan holds 6 liters and the complete circuit holds 12 liters, IIRC, but I may be wrong and those are not the right quantities.

What do you think about this procedure?. Any comments or corrections will be much appreciated.

 

[Kernal]

I don't recall the procedure for a do-it-yourself flush, it's in the FAQ's area IIRC. Never heard anyone talk about an automatic backflush when you turn it off?? Is that like if anything is stuck on the filter it will float down to the pan?? IDK. What model is your rig? A US spec FZJ-80 holds about 12 US quarts of ATF and when you just drain the pan you get about +/- 4 US quarts out.

Try this link:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/19299-transmission-fluid-exchange-writeup.html

 

[Cañonero]

Very interesting link.

Mine is a 4.2 TD VX Limited. It's the japanese version RHD.

 

[Cruisin']

As for how much fluid, I did mine by that same technique, and kept repeating the run/refill 2 litres step until the stuff coming out was new and clean looking. I had added an extra tranny cooler and used about 15 litres. Without having the extra cooler in the system to fill it would probably have been 12-13 litres.

Mine is a 1991 JDM HDJ81, so the same tranny as you. (actually I think they run the same trans as the gassers, just a different stall torque converter...)

Good luck!

 

[lacruiser]

Dropping the transmission pan is not a big deal, and I recommend it for the first time. After that, you can just keep the fluid clean and probably not need to do it again for a long time.

If you simply drain the fluid, any sediment on the bottom of the pan will not drain, as the inside lip of the drain plug bung is above the bottom level of the pan. If you remove the pan for cleaning, you'll find a layer of sludge along the bottom of the pan, most likely.

When I self-flush, I drain the pan, re-fill it, disconnect the return line to the trans, stick that into a bucket, then place a funnel into the dipstick tube. Start the engine, and start pouring in the fluid. After you've poured in about 4-5 additional liters, have a helper run through all the gears while doing this procedure, that will force fresh fluid into all the circuits.

As stated, continue pouring fresh fluid in until you see fresh fluid exiting. Then you're done. It took about 15-18 liters to do the whole thing. m This is the most complete fluid exchange you can do without disassembling the transmission and torque converter, and it's very effective.

 

[Dusty]

dont drop the pan. waste of time. you get the pan off and take out this screen and put a new screen back in that looks just like the one you just took out. you risk having a leak in the pan when u r done. I did the filter change and its a waste.

What i did was run a replacable baldwin hydrolic filter in line with the factory tranny cooler. once a year i replace the filter and the tranny fluid. tranny has 170k miles and shifts perfect. havnt done any backflushes and i run only synthetic M1 atf fluid. i feel bad replacing the fluid every year because the stuff comin out looks just like the stuff i put back in

 

[weigellj]

I dropped my pan last nite, due to a rock I had hit, which reformed the side of the pan (between the driveshaft and the tranny pan) and broke the RTV loose and gave it a little leak, which I was getting sick of seeing on the garage floor....

My filter (by looks), was fine. I would not replaced the filter on the LC tranny. Just run it as is, unless you got some metal and shavings stuck to the magnets.

Also the magnets, are going to be somewhat black looking when you take them off and clean them, this is normal.

Dropping the pan in my opinion is worth it, to clean the magnets. As far as changing the filter, I wouldn't spend the money on it, unless there would be a reason to suspect there were problems..... Dirty fluid, metal shavings ect.

I did mine in about 2 hrs... Really easy to do. Clean the pan and the gasket area good, RTV it, fill it and call it a day.

 

[Cañonero]

Dropping the transmission pan is not a big deal, and I recommend it for the first time. After that, you can just keep the fluid clean and probably not need to do it again for a long time.

If you simply drain the fluid, any sediment on the bottom of the pan will not drain, as the inside lip of the drain plug bung is above the bottom level of the pan. If you remove the pan for cleaning, you'll find a layer of sludge along the bottom of the pan, most likely.

When I self-flush, I drain the pan, re-fill it, disconnect the return line to the trans, stick that into a bucket, then place a funnel into the dipstick tube. Start the engine, and start pouring in the fluid. After you've poured in about 4-5 additional liters, have a helper run through all the gears while doing this procedure, that will force fresh fluid into all the circuits.

That thing you mention about the inside lip of the drain plug is very interesting. It makes it nosense to use the drain plug before flushing with the return-line method, as it was my plan. I wonder why they did that design.

About dropping the pan, you say you recommend it for the first time, that's also interesting in my case. I should have mentioned that my tranny has been completely flushed, pan dropped an cleaned with new gasket and new filter just 10.000 miles and 8 months ago.

Why do I want to change the oil then?, because I had overheating problems (solved now) caused by a bad radiator installation, and I saw temperatures about 275 ºF. I didn't notice any difference in oil looks or smell, and, after repairing, the temperatures are perfectly ok, but the other day I compared it with new fluid and:

So it's evident that it is at lest oxidized, and maybe varnished, I don't know. Has it got enough sludge to make it necessary to drop the pan? I also don't know.

 

[weigellj]

Also on the article, of course the filter company is going to want you to buy a new filter... Why wouldn't they, they cannot sell tranny filters, if people don't buy them....

Toyota LC tranny, I wouldn't bother with the screen/filter change, unless I had a suspected reason to do it (as posted above)

My 99 Dodge diesel, automatic tranny, yes, I change the filter because the tranny is a POS....

Different breed of filters in my opinion.

Also, I would not buy a Amashole tranny/oil or any other filter, to put in my toyota.... I prefer toyota oil filters, just my preference again.

 

[weigellj]

It looks darker than it should, did the techs who did the Fluid change, use the correct type of ATF?

A overheating radiator/engine should not affect your tranny fluid at all...

Did you dummy light on the dash come on, for an overheated tranny (I can't remember the lite right now)?

The fluid I drained was from my mud truck and it looked like it just came out of the bottle and looks like the fluid you have to the right.

 

[Kernal]

If the photos above show tan fluid after only 10,000 miles on it something doesn't add up, either they did not completely replace the old fluid or maybe the ATF got too hot?? Does your rig have an ATF cooler?

 

[Cañonero]

It looks darker than it should, did the techs who did the Fluid change, use the correct type of ATF?

A overheating radiator/engine should not affect your tranny fluid at all...

Did you dummy light on the dash come on, for an overheated tranny (I can't remember the lite right now)?

The fluid I drained was from my mud truck and it looked like it just came out of the bottle and looks like the fluid you have to the right.

They did a complete flush and used Dexron III synthetic ATF, but, now that you mention it, they said they had used an aditive that is supossed to extend transmission life. I wonder if an additive can make that difference in color.

The problem was in the ATF cooler, not in the engine radiator that's why the ATF overheated.

The light didn't come one cause I have a temperature gauge, and it replaces the stock sensor for the dash light. Anyway, the dash light turns on at 305 º F, and I reached 275 º F, so....

 

[Kernal]

Canonero; you could send out a sample of the ATF from your tranny to Blackstone labs, the result might help answer your question about whether the fluid is still good. I've read here on mud that the wrong additive or wrong ATF is a common cause of transmission problems.

Go to this link and click on the transmission icon
(edit: IIRC the cost is $29 for a basic analysis and $10 extra to check the TAN)

Blackstone Labs

 

[Kernal]

Dusty; where did you find the external filter and will it hook up to the cooler lines without mods, need any adaptors? Got the model number?

 

[Cañonero]

Thank you Kernal, that's a good idea.

I'm gonna change the oil anyway, but it's still interesting to know the wear number that could have been caused by the damaged oil.

What I can't find is the price for a standard transmission oil analysis, just says 22.5 for the engine oil analysis.

 

[Kernal]

Pretty sure it is the same price for analysis of ATF as engine oil; $29.95 for the basic test plus $10 for the TAN (total acid number).

Here is a link for one testing lab in Europe, looks more expensive, about 60 Euro.

http://www.anac-diagnosis.com/Lub/lubanac.nsf/VS_OPM/5CCBCBF656E59BEDC12574260045150A?OpenDocument

 

[Dusty]

Dusty; where did you find the external filter and will it hook up to the cooler lines without mods, need any adaptors? Got the model number?

i used a transdapt remote filter bracket that takes a standard ford type filter (ph8a which is the same filter thread type our 1fzfe uses) and ran it in series with the transmission cooler. i put the filter in the front of the truck right behind the front bumper

the filter i use is wic part # 51622 which has a 7-9 psi bypass pressure and is often used in hydrolic apps (forklifts etc)
http://www.wixfilters.com/filterlookup/PartDetail.asp?Part=51622
this particular filter is standard equipment for everything from freightliner to alison trannys

see this thread for more good ideas
https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/55066-anyone-running-external-tranny-filter.html

 

[Dusty]

Also on the article, of course the filter company is going to want you to buy a new filter... Why wouldn't they, they cannot sell tranny filters, if people don't buy them....

Toyota LC tranny, I wouldn't bother with the screen/filter change, unless I had a suspected reason to do it (as posted above)

My 99 Dodge diesel, automatic tranny, yes, I change the filter because the tranny is a POS....

Different breed of filters in my opinion.

Also, I would not buy a Amashole tranny/oil or any other filter, to put in my toyota.... I prefer toyota oil filters, just my preference again.

one could argue such with regard to motor oil filters BUT
Note that your yota tranny doesn't have much of a filter at all. all you have is a mesh screen. just barely better than nothing