How drop to r17? (1 Viewer)

[GrizzlyClint]

So,with this size I can skip any trimming ?

Cannot speak for others but the bolt head was my biggest hurdle. I put on a steel front bumper so I had already trimmed the splash guard in the front. I'd wait and get feedback from the community as a whole before making the call if you're concerned about needing to trim.

 

[Kyrylo25]

Cannot speak for others but the bolt head was my biggest hurdle. I put on a steel front bumper so I had already trimmed the splash guard in the front. I'd wait and get feedback from the community as a whole before making the call if you're concerned about needing to trim.

Found one video in the YouTube -265/70 r17 maximum without the trimming …I’m trying to found used kit in LA…looks impossible

 

[GrizzlyClint]

Found one video in the YouTube -265/70 r17 maximum without the trimming …I’m trying to found used kit in LA…looks impossible

In theory 265/70/17 is, however like @ericm979 and I mentioned wheel offset, width, and specific tire choice matters.

 

[r2m]

Found one video in the YouTube -265/70 r17 maximum without the trimming …I’m trying to found used kit in LA…looks impossible

If you have a wee bit of rubbing on the fender liner, there's two simple options:

1. Get a heat gun and massage the black plastic fender liner back a little.
2. Go to a shop and have them do an alignment with the castor moved forward a little. Living in L.A., you could go to shops like 4 Wheel Parts, Off Road Warehouse, and other shops that do this all the time for IFS on Toyota products.

 

[Kyrylo25]

In theory 265/70/17 is, however like @ericm979 and I mentioned wheel offset, width, and specific tire choice matters.

It will be original TRD PRO R17,they have a different offset?

 

[Kyrylo25]

If you have a wee bit of rubbing on the fender liner, there's two simple options:

1. Get a heat gun and massage the black plastic fender liner back a little.
2. Go to a shop and have them do an alignment with the castor moved forward a little. Living in L.A., you could go to shops like 4 Wheel Parts, Off Road Warehouse, and other shops that do this all the time for IFS on Toyota products.

Thank you so much for your advice !

 

[ZIOI]

It will be original TRD PRO R17,they have a different offset?

They have quite a bit different offset from the stock 18s and will make WORSE tire clearance.

I'm on stock 18s (2011 6-spoke) and running 265/70r18 tires (Defenders). There is a tiny bit of rubbing only when backing AND turning. I could eliminate it with a bit more heat gun massaging, but it's so minor I don't care. I have zero lift, zero chopping, zero hacking. Some minor heat gun work and honestly it didn't do much.

IMO the perfect "everything else stock" tire size is 255/70r18. On every generation of GX to my knowledge this will clear with no rubbing and it's 32" tall.

When I looked into dropping down to 17s on TRD wheels, I decided it wasn't worth it. Here's why:

• TRD wheels with their wider stance (less positive offset) actually reduce tire clearance by increasing scrub radius. Stock 18s are +25mm offset wheels while the TRDs are only +4mm. That means you will shift the wheel out nearly an inch just swapping to the 17s. This is why I have no body mount rub with 32.5" tires while many running smaller tires have had to chop the body mount. If you want maximum possible tire clearance, you need to stay with the stock +25mm offset or VERY close to it. With 265/70r18s, I still have a good bit of clearance (about 3/4") to the UCA.
• I personally wanted to run the I could fit with no chopping whatsoever. So my first inclination was to do a 235/80r17 E rated tire. Most of these are right at 32" or just under. They are nice and narrow. But they are HEAVY because they are E-rated. The AT4w in this size is 47# per tire! Not only are E-rated tires porky overweight, but because they are rock hard they tend to really suck off-road with airing down making almost no difference. There are no 235 wide tall AT tires that are NOT E-rated, so I would have had to step to a 245 wide tire. The problem is that the 245 width in a 75 series is *also* e-rated, so you have to drop down to a 245/70 to get out of porky 50#-per-tire range. Unfortunately, the 245/70r17 is only 30.5" tall, which is what my bone stock 18s are. So after all that fiddling with 17s, I ended up gaining no height and only losing a tiny bit of width.
• Why would I spend money in TRDs and be limited to a 245/70r17 in a non-E-rated tire when the stock 18s will let me run a 255/70r18 which is still narrower than stock 265 while being nearly 2" taller?
• If you look at the total number of sizes offered, 18" is now more popular than 17". Yes, a 17 gets more you more sidewall, and that's really nice to have. But it's only 1/2" more than an 18, and I was able to get the same increase in sidewall by going taller on 18s.

If I was willing to do an E-rated tire, I would have absolutely considered the 17s and going with 255/80r17. This is sort of the ultimate pizza cutter. It is a legit full 33" tire and only 255 wide and on T4R TRDORP wheels (the 7spoke "gear" wheels) it fits with no BMC.

But in the end, I figured the 17s still weren't worth it to gain merely a 1/2" taller tire that is 10# heavier.

By staying with stock wheels and going with 265/70r18 Defender MS2s, I got a 32.5" tall tire that fits with no lift or chop and the most minor of minor rubs. And the tires themselves are lightweight at only 40# each (compared to 56# each for the E-rated variant!). The ride quality is fantastic, they are super quiet and I can get 20mpg highway with these large tires.

I couldn't possibly be happier with my choice in tires and what staying with the stock wheels got me.

Nothing impressive, but with this amount of flex I had ZERO rub:

 

[Kyrylo25]

They have quite a bit different offset from the stock 18s and will make WORSE tire clearance.

I'm on stock 18s (2011 6-spoke) and running 265/70r18 tires (Defenders). There is a tiny bit of rubbing only when backing AND turning. I could eliminate it with a bit more heat gun massaging, but it's so minor I don't care. I have zero lift, zero chopping, zero hacking. Some minor heat gun work and honestly it didn't do much.

IMO the perfect "everything else stock" tire size is 255/70r18. On every generation of GX to my knowledge this will clear with no rubbing and it's 32" tall.

When I looked into dropping down to 17s on TRD wheels, I decided it wasn't worth it. Here's why:

• TRD wheels with their wider stance (less positive offset) actually reduce tire clearance by increasing scrub radius. Stock 18s are +25mm offset wheels while the TRDs are only +4mm. That means you will shift the wheel out nearly an inch just swapping to the 17s. This is why I have no body mount rub with 32.5" tires while many running smaller tires have had to chop the body mount. If you want maximum possible tire clearance, you need to stay with the stock +25mm offset or VERY close to it. With 265/70r18s, I still have a good bit of clearance (about 3/4") to the UCA.
• I personally wanted to run the I could fit with no chopping whatsoever. So my first inclination was to do a 235/80r17 E rated tire. Most of these are right at 32" or just under. They are nice and narrow. But they are HEAVY because they are E-rated. The AT4w in this size is 47# per tire! Not only are E-rated tires porky overweight, but because they are rock hard they tend to really suck off-road with airing down making almost no difference. There are no 235 wide tall AT tires that are NOT E-rated, so I would have had to step to a 245 wide tire. The problem is that the 245 width in a 75 series is *also* e-rated, so you have to drop down to a 245/70 to get out of porky 50#-per-tire range. Unfortunately, the 245/70r17 is only 30.5" tall, which is what my bone stock 18s are. So after all that fiddling with 17s, I ended up gaining no height and only losing a tiny bit of width.
• Why would I spend money in TRDs and be limited to a 245/70r17 in a non-E-rated tire when the stock 18s will let me run a 255/70r18 which is still narrower than stock 265 while being nearly 2" taller?
• If you look at the total number of sizes offered, 18" is now more popular than 17". Yes, a 17 gets more you more sidewall, and that's really nice to have. But it's only 1/2" more than an 18, and I was able to get the same increase in sidewall by going taller on 18s.

If I was willing to do an E-rated tire, I would have absolutely considered the 17s and going with 255/80r17. This is sort of the ultimate pizza cutter. It is a legit full 33" tire and only 255 wide and on T4R TRDORP wheels (the 7spoke "gear" wheels) it fits with no BMC.

But in the end, I figured the 17s still weren't worth it to gain merely a 1/2" taller tire that is 10# heavier.

By staying with stock wheels and going with 265/70r18 Defender MS2s, I got a 32.5" tall tire that fits with no lift or chop and the most minor of minor rubs. And the tires themselves are lightweight at only 40# each (compared to 56# each for the E-rated variant!). The ride quality is fantastic, they are super quiet and I can get 20mpg highway with these large tires.

I couldn't possibly be happier with my choice in tires and what staying with the stock wheels got me.

View attachment 3897369

Nothing impressive, but with this amount of flex I had ZERO rub:

View attachment 3897371

That’s some compering that make a reason for me to get the r17

 

[Kyrylo25]

They have quite a bit different offset from the stock 18s and will make WORSE tire clearance.

I'm on stock 18s (2011 6-spoke) and running 265/70r18 tires (Defenders). There is a tiny bit of rubbing only when backing AND turning. I could eliminate it with a bit more heat gun massaging, but it's so minor I don't care. I have zero lift, zero chopping, zero hacking. Some minor heat gun work and honestly it didn't do much.

IMO the perfect "everything else stock" tire size is 255/70r18. On every generation of GX to my knowledge this will clear with no rubbing and it's 32" tall.

When I looked into dropping down to 17s on TRD wheels, I decided it wasn't worth it. Here's why:

• TRD wheels with their wider stance (less positive offset) actually reduce tire clearance by increasing scrub radius. Stock 18s are +25mm offset wheels while the TRDs are only +4mm. That means you will shift the wheel out nearly an inch just swapping to the 17s. This is why I have no body mount rub with 32.5" tires while many running smaller tires have had to chop the body mount. If you want maximum possible tire clearance, you need to stay with the stock +25mm offset or VERY close to it. With 265/70r18s, I still have a good bit of clearance (about 3/4") to the UCA.
• I personally wanted to run the I could fit with no chopping whatsoever. So my first inclination was to do a 235/80r17 E rated tire. Most of these are right at 32" or just under. They are nice and narrow. But they are HEAVY because they are E-rated. The AT4w in this size is 47# per tire! Not only are E-rated tires porky overweight, but because they are rock hard they tend to really suck off-road with airing down making almost no difference. There are no 235 wide tall AT tires that are NOT E-rated, so I would have had to step to a 245 wide tire. The problem is that the 245 width in a 75 series is *also* e-rated, so you have to drop down to a 245/70 to get out of porky 50#-per-tire range. Unfortunately, the 245/70r17 is only 30.5" tall, which is what my bone stock 18s are. So after all that fiddling with 17s, I ended up gaining no height and only losing a tiny bit of width.
• Why would I spend money in TRDs and be limited to a 245/70r17 in a non-E-rated tire when the stock 18s will let me run a 255/70r18 which is still narrower than stock 265 while being nearly 2" taller?
• If you look at the total number of sizes offered, 18" is now more popular than 17". Yes, a 17 gets more you more sidewall, and that's really nice to have. But it's only 1/2" more than an 18, and I was able to get the same increase in sidewall by going taller on 18s.

If I was willing to do an E-rated tire, I would have absolutely considered the 17s and going with 255/80r17. This is sort of the ultimate pizza cutter. It is a legit full 33" tire and only 255 wide and on T4R TRDORP wheels (the 7spoke "gear" wheels) it fits with no BMC.

But in the end, I figured the 17s still weren't worth it to gain merely a 1/2" taller tire that is 10# heavier.

By staying with stock wheels and going with 265/70r18 Defender MS2s, I got a 32.5" tall tire that fits with no lift or chop and the most minor of minor rubs. And the tires themselves are lightweight at only 40# each (compared to 56# each for the E-rated variant!). The ride quality is fantastic, they are super quiet and I can get 20mpg highway with these large tires.

I couldn't possibly be happier with my choice in tires and what staying with the stock wheels got me.

View attachment 3897369

Nothing impressive, but with this amount of flex I had ZERO rub:

View attachment 3897371

Can you send me the picture between the front wheel and rocker slider ?

 

[Kyrylo25]

They have quite a bit different offset from the stock 18s and will make WORSE tire clearance.

I'm on stock 18s (2011 6-spoke) and running 265/70r18 tires (Defenders). There is a tiny bit of rubbing only when backing AND turning. I could eliminate it with a bit more heat gun massaging, but it's so minor I don't care. I have zero lift, zero chopping, zero hacking. Some minor heat gun work and honestly it didn't do much.

IMO the perfect "everything else stock" tire size is 255/70r18. On every generation of GX to my knowledge this will clear with no rubbing and it's 32" tall.

When I looked into dropping down to 17s on TRD wheels, I decided it wasn't worth it. Here's why:

• TRD wheels with their wider stance (less positive offset) actually reduce tire clearance by increasing scrub radius. Stock 18s are +25mm offset wheels while the TRDs are only +4mm. That means you will shift the wheel out nearly an inch just swapping to the 17s. This is why I have no body mount rub with 32.5" tires while many running smaller tires have had to chop the body mount. If you want maximum possible tire clearance, you need to stay with the stock +25mm offset or VERY close to it. With 265/70r18s, I still have a good bit of clearance (about 3/4") to the UCA.
• I personally wanted to run the I could fit with no chopping whatsoever. So my first inclination was to do a 235/80r17 E rated tire. Most of these are right at 32" or just under. They are nice and narrow. But they are HEAVY because they are E-rated. The AT4w in this size is 47# per tire! Not only are E-rated tires porky overweight, but because they are rock hard they tend to really suck off-road with airing down making almost no difference. There are no 235 wide tall AT tires that are NOT E-rated, so I would have had to step to a 245 wide tire. The problem is that the 245 width in a 75 series is *also* e-rated, so you have to drop down to a 245/70 to get out of porky 50#-per-tire range. Unfortunately, the 245/70r17 is only 30.5" tall, which is what my bone stock 18s are. So after all that fiddling with 17s, I ended up gaining no height and only losing a tiny bit of width.
• Why would I spend money in TRDs and be limited to a 245/70r17 in a non-E-rated tire when the stock 18s will let me run a 255/70r18 which is still narrower than stock 265 while being nearly 2" taller?
• If you look at the total number of sizes offered, 18" is now more popular than 17". Yes, a 17 gets more you more sidewall, and that's really nice to have. But it's only 1/2" more than an 18, and I was able to get the same increase in sidewall by going taller on 18s.

If I was willing to do an E-rated tire, I would have absolutely considered the 17s and going with 255/80r17. This is sort of the ultimate pizza cutter. It is a legit full 33" tire and only 255 wide and on T4R TRDORP wheels (the 7spoke "gear" wheels) it fits with no BMC.

But in the end, I figured the 17s still weren't worth it to gain merely a 1/2" taller tire that is 10# heavier.

By staying with stock wheels and going with 265/70r18 Defender MS2s, I got a 32.5" tall tire that fits with no lift or chop and the most minor of minor rubs. And the tires themselves are lightweight at only 40# each (compared to 56# each for the E-rated variant!). The ride quality is fantastic, they are super quiet and I can get 20mpg highway with these large tires.

I couldn't possibly be happier with my choice in tires and what staying with the stock wheels got me.

View attachment 3897369

Nothing impressive, but with this amount of flex I had ZERO rub:

View attachment 3897371

If I will go with 255/70 r18 -How will this show up on street driving and what effect will it have on consumption and car readings and behavior?

 

[GrizzlyClint]

That’s some compering that make a reason for me to get the r17

View attachment 3897401

View attachment 3897402

FYI the factory size (265/60R18) is about an inch shorter than 265/70/17. Going with 265/70/18 will absolutely rub and not fit in the spare spot.

 

[ZIOI]

Can you send me the picture between the front wheel and rocker slider ?

Something like this?

 

[ZIOI]

FYI the factory size (265/60R18) is about an inch shorter than 265/70/17. Going with 265/70/18 will absolutely rub and not fit in the spare spot.

Yes, I’m not running a spare at this time. I believe the 255/70r18 will fit if some bracketry is clearanced. I don’t recommend a 255/70r18 spare for a set of 265/70r18, but it small enough diameter difference you would probably be OK in a pinch.

 

[ZIOI]

If I will go with 255/70 r18 -How will this show up on street driving and what effect will it have on consumption and car readings and behavior?

Consumption effect depends more on actual tire (tread, weight, rolling resistance) than size per se.

The factory speedometer calibration on my GX was reading high, so going up to larger tires actually made it more accurate. Instead of reading 70 when you’re going 66, it now reads 70 when you’re going about 73mph. GPS verified. It’s off a bit less but in the opposite direction. I have to add about 5% to my MPG to adjust for this minor error.

My Defenders are an upgrade in ride quality over the tires that were on it when I bought it (Kumho, iirc) in the smaller size.

My MPG is slightly worse around town but the same on the highway.

 

[Cold Iron]

My 19 had Michelin Defenders on it with less than 100 miles on them. First snow pulled into the driveway and slid sideways

That afternoon wasn't any better and was headed down the hill into the ravine

They had to go or it was going to be a long winter. 17" gave me a lot more options. And the tipping point was the weight of the wheels, from my notes:
Stock wheels 32 lbs.
TRD Pro wheels 25 lbs. (7 pounds lighter)

Absolutely no regrets.

And sold the take offs on FB Marketplace in 2 hours for $650 I probably should have asked more but good riddance

Can't imagine running without a spare. Then again I am often where there is no cell phone reception. And that is when you will need a spare

If you always have cell phone reception and can walk someplace easily that might be different. Even then I can't picture not having a spare on me.

 

[Kyrylo25]

My 19 had Michelin Defenders on it with less than 100 miles on them. First snow pulled into the driveway and slid sideways

That afternoon wasn't any better and was headed down the hill into the ravine

They had to go or it was going to be a long winter. 17" gave me a lot more options. And the tipping point was the weight of the wheels, from my notes:
Stock wheels 32 lbs.
TRD Pro wheels 25 lbs. (7 pounds lighter)

Absolutely no regrets.

And sold the take offs on FB Marketplace in 2 hours for $650 I probably should have asked more but good riddance

View attachment 3897756

Can't imagine running without a spare. Then again I am often where there is no cell phone reception. And that is when you will need a spare

If you always have cell phone reception and can walk someplace easily that might be different. Even then I can't picture not having a spare on me.

Thank you so much for sharing your experience

 

[ShumbaTX1999]

I'm running Toyo Open Countries 265/70/17 with a Nomad Convoy rim with minimal rubbing on full turn. I bought a heat gun and massaged the wheel wells and that did the trick. I did not replace the spare tire (so I still have the factory spare in there, which I think is pretty close to the same size as the tires I'm running). I also did a Bilstein 5100 leveling lift to reduce the rake. I like the looks of it, but some folks don't like the old-school white rims.

 

[Kyrylo25]

I’m done with 265/70 r17 Trd rims ,It's a little bit of front mudguard in the fender flap when the steering wheel is turned inwards.

 

[ShumbaTX1999]

I just removed that front fender mud flap thingy. Once I did that, I just pushed the wheels well back a bit and the rubbing stopped. Those wheels and tires look good man. I like that combo.

 

[Kyrylo25]

I just removed that front fender mud flap thingy. Once I did that, I just pushed the wheels well back a bit and the rubbing stopped. Those wheels and tires look good man. I like that combo.

I fixed the inner with heat gun