How does your 100 series ride in town? (1 Viewer)

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Yeah, mine rides rough. AHC deleted on p rated tires. Feel every crack
 
My 99 LC has an old man emu 2.5in lift (ome shocks as well) and it was on there when I bought it, so I have no idea what a stock 100 rides like. That said, the truck drives well, but fairly rigid on the road. I thought it was due to the load range E tires, but I’m thinking it might be the shocks. Everything I’ve read lately states that the ome shocks are not known for having a smooth ride.
 
My 330k mile 100 (pretty much stock with exception of OME 2866 rear coils) rides about the same as my wife's 40k mile Subaru Outback.

I came to the 100 from a Jeep TJ, so I think it rides like a luxobarge.
 
Mine rides good around town.. There are times I think, man this is smooth and other times I like its a bit rough. But its 15 years old and has 187k on it. I plan to replace every single bushing this coming summer and wonder if that will make a difference. I also still have AHC in mine.
 
I've had a few different configurations to compare. Short summary is that bushings make a big difference and it seems rare that people pay close attention to them. OEM shocks are very comfy and are my favorite for 99% of people's use case.

On my 99LC:
1. OEM everything - new shocks, and sway bar cushions old everything else. 200k miles. Very smooth.
2. Rear BIO Bumper and SS1 system - OME heavy 1.5 lift rear coils. 250k miles. Smooth enough.
3. Bumper, SS1 - new front UCAs and rear lower links. Very smooth

On my 06LX:
1. OEM everything, AHC globes replaced 40k miles ago. 217k on chassis. Extremely smooth, despite worn bushings all over.

I've driven @Kyle Bell 's 99LC with OME medium springs and OME nitrocharger shocks and it's stable and firm, but very harsh.

The LX with AHC is more smooth and more stable than any other configuration I've been in, by a significant margin.
 
I have a stock 2000 LC with some larger tires it came with when I purchased it. It's my first LC so I can't really compare to much but I used to drive a Subaru.

I enjoy the ride so much that I don't mind going the distance anywhere. I upgraded my sound system as well. It feels like I'm in my living room in a recliner 😁
 
Glad to see there is a mixed bag of people who have that luxurious ride and some others who say its a bit rough.

I have just about stock everything, and it's all new, but I am in the rides like s*** crowd. Just about every other vehicle I am in rides better around town.

Maybe time to go into a life long debt and get into a newer 200 series.
 
Glad to see there is a mixed bag of people who have that luxurious ride and some others who say its a bit rough.

I have just about stock everything, and it's all new, but I am in the rides like s*** crowd. Just about every other vehicle I am in rides better around town.

Maybe time to go into a life long debt and get into a newer 200 series.

A completely stock LC with a recently freshened suspension will ride very, very smoothly. It won't be AHC, but it's a fantastic road trip vehicle. What all is new under your truck? Like @suprarx7nut said, bushings are a big deal here. If none have been done, doing all the control arm bushings, sway bar and end-link bushings, diff bushings, steering rack bushings, etc will completely change it. Plus, it'll be 5-figures cheaper than a 200!
 
A completely stock LC with a recently freshened suspension will ride very, very smoothly. It won't be AHC, but it's a fantastic road trip vehicle. What all is new under your truck? Like @suprarx7nut said, bushings are a big deal here. If none have been done, doing all the control arm bushings, sway bar and end-link bushings, diff bushings, steering rack bushings, etc will completely change it. Plus, it'll be 5-figures cheaper than a 200!


Good point.Sounds like I should start inspected some bushings next


So front end and rear end sway bar links and bushings all replaced with ToyotaOEM
Front shocks new OEM
Rear FOX shocks with light duty OME springs

I do feel some knocking in my steering wheel at low speed, maybe I should check into some steering rack bushings.

Diff bushings have not been inspected, but that could be part of my clunking that I have been chasing.

LCA has new BJ but not bushings. UCA has has not been worked on at all.
 
I've driven @Kyle Bell 's 99LC with OME medium springs and OME nitrocharger shocks and it's stable and firm, but very harsh.

I have the same setup, and it's definitely harsh. I'm waiting for @TRAIL TAILOR to get Tough Dog's back in stock so I can switch out the OMEs.
 
Just wanted to have a fun thread about ride quality in the cruiser, so like the title says, how does your 100 series ride?

I run a stock ride height rig with new toyota shocks up front and fox shocks in the rear. Medium OEM springs to handle a bit of weight, but man I feel every bump in the road.

Every time I see someone talk about their plush luxurious ride I get pretty jealous. The truck feels great at low speeds crawling over rocks and handling the weight no problem, but some cracks in the road or washboard dirt roads is enough to make me want to sell the truck. I find myself creeping over sidewalk / entrances to parking lots that my little toyota highlander would just blast over.

I have done everything from checking body mounts, experimenting with different tire pressure, new suspension, deep meditation and hoping things will just get better, but no luck.

Should I just get over it and move on? Maybe empty everything out of the interior, could just be all the crap I have shaking around?

Anyone else having these same concerns or do you all have smooth riding Cadillac feeling cruisers?
You keep saying "OEM," as in Original Equipment Manufacturer, but I think you mean OME, as in Old Man Emu, which if true is most of your issue, I's say. They are definitely more rigid than stock.
 
Good point.Sounds like I should start inspected some bushings next


So front end and rear end sway bar links and bushings all replaced with ToyotaOEM
Front shocks new OEM
Rear FOX shocks with light duty OME springs

I do feel some knocking in my steering wheel at low speed, maybe I should check into some steering rack bushings.

Diff bushings have not been inspected, but that could be part of my clunking that I have been chasing.

LCA has new BJ but not bushings. UCA has has not been worked on at all.

Yup. Your bushings are possibly very done. Shocks help to keep the vehicle cushy over the bigger bumps, but the bushings are what will insulate your from harsh bumps. The clunk in your drivetrain is very possibly the diff bushings. The knocking in the wheel is definitely rack bushings- I had the same and just replaced- now perfect.
 
You keep saying "OEM," as in Original Equipment Manufacturer, but I think you mean OME, as in Old Man Emu, which if true is most of your issue, I's say. They are definitely more rigid than stock.

When I say OEM I am indeed refereeing to Toyota parts. The only old man emu part I have is the light duty springs in the rear rated for +250lbs

Every replacement part I am putting into this truck will be toyota, I have no need for a lift, big ass tires, and an empty wallet.



Yup. Your bushings are possibly very done. Shocks help to keep the vehicle cushy over the bigger bumps, but the bushings are what will insulate your from harsh bumps. The clunk in your drivetrain is very possibly the diff bushings. The knocking in the wheel is definitely rack bushings- I had the same and just replaced- now perfect.


Appreciate the advice. Is replacing the bushings in the control arms an option or do you typically replace the entire setup? All and all I think I will put this low down on the list of things to worry about, can't imagine I am doing any damage to the vehicle, just need to turn the radio up and stop listening to every noise.
 
When I say OEM I am indeed refereeing to Toyota parts. The only old man emu part I have is the light duty springs in the rear rated for +250lbs

Every replacement part I am putting into this truck will be toyota, I have no need for a lift, big ass tires, and an empty wallet.






Appreciate the advice. Is replacing the bushings in the control arms an option or do you typically replace the entire setup? All and all I think I will put this low down on the list of things to worry about, can't imagine I am doing any damage to the vehicle, just need to turn the radio up and stop listening to every noise.

It's been a while since I did my research on this, so I could be slightly off: You can definitely replace the bushings on the LCA and rear control arms without replacing the full assembly. In my case I replaced the complete assemblies (all but front LCA are upgraded anyway). I believe for the rear control arms, you need to use 80-series bushings, but Kurt at Cruiser Outfitters sells what you would need.

You aren't really doing any damage to the truck. Maybe some additional wear in some parts (part of the clunking may be hub shaft splines), but I don't think it's enough to worry about. If it got really bad, you'd know it. It's mostly just for your own comfort while driving.
 
It's been a while since I did my research on this, so I could be slightly off: You can definitely replace the bushings on the LCA and rear control arms without replacing the full assembly. In my case I replaced the complete assemblies (all but front LCA are upgraded anyway). I believe for the rear control arms, you need to use 80-series bushings, but Kurt at Cruiser Outfitters sells what you would need.

You aren't really doing any damage to the truck. Maybe some additional wear in some parts (part of the clunking may be hub shaft splines), but I don't think it's enough to worry about. If it got really bad, you'd know it. It's mostly just for your own comfort while driving.


Copy that, sounds legit. Not to turn this into a clunk thread, but I have been focused on driveline based issued per everyone elses suggestions. After taking apart and cleaning / re-greasing it made no difference. Now shifting my attention to CVS/hubs/Diff bushing.

As for the smooth ride,in all reality I'll never sell this truck, so might as well start freshening up everything thats worn.
 
Copy that, sounds legit. Not to turn this into a clunk thread, but I have been focused on driveline based issued per everyone elses suggestions. After taking apart and cleaning / re-greasing it made no difference. Now shifting my attention to CVS/hubs/Diff bushing.

As for the smooth ride,in all reality I'll never sell this truck, so might as well start freshening up everything thats worn.

Check U-joints for play. They'l contribute to drive-line clunks. There's lots of info here to search, but you can remove the drive shafts one at a time to help isolate the problem. Just lock the CDL when you're running FWD or RWD. Having them replaced and the shafts balanced is pretty cheap, like under $200.
 
I went with Toyota shocks front and rear, ome 865 springs, cranked T bars, and BFG K02’s 33” on factory 18’s. Drives very nice, not harsh at all, but not as smooth as an LX with working AHC on all seasons.

I’d start with putting Toyota shocks in rear they’re so cheap for the pair. Then bushings next.
 
06 LX is fantastic on the highway and on smooth roads. However, it is not smooth around town, at low speeds, going over cracks, potholes, or washboard roads. My only comparison is my law partner's 2013 LC, which feels like it floats over those types of roads compared to my LX. I've read handfuls of threads of users with AHC trucks who have similar complaints. I'm about to start going through the AHC diagnostic process, and also determining whether my rear coils need to be replaced. Otherwise, the truck is basically perfect - but I don't think I'm getting the intended ride quality out of my suspension.
 

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