How do you build the ultimate 2F head??

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We have a couple local machine shops here in Denver that several folks have walked in with their head, and without saying anything, the machinist says, "yep, Land Cruiser head." They know what to do.

Find a shop like that.

You can thank Robbie and Christo for that!!
 
porting and polishing is a waste of time on a cruiser motor IMHO.

I think polishing is a waste on any engine, rough passages promote mixing. Port matching benefits any engine, as it reduces flow restrictions. Porting benefits flow volume, so it can benefit a low rev engine, but if not done correctly it can weaken the head.
 
Ultimate cheap & durable head:
-remove soft plug
-steam clean
-magnaflux
-mill as much as needed
-replace softplug with allen plug
-install new SBC valves, springs, hardware, yadda...
-chase all threaded holes
-paint bright red.

The advantage to doing the SBC valves & springs and attendant seat & guide work is it costs less than returning to factory spec and gives a better result.

Any other stuff like grinding ports and manifold matching is stuff to do if you have nothing else going on in life.

Don't install heavier springs unless you enjoy replacing cams & lifters.
 
Soft plug = Galley plug.

(There will be some confusion :D ).

"-- paint bright red"

Oh, you sexxxy beast !

:grinpimp:
 
The advantage to doing the SBC valves & springs and attendant seat & guide work is it costs less than returning to factory spec and gives a better result.



Don't install heavier springs unless you enjoy replacing cams & lifters.


*IF* you need to replace valves and guides. it is very likely that your guides will be within spec and your valves/seats will simply need to be ground.

If you are looking at more than that, then, yep, Chevy stuff saves you money and gains you a tiny increase in airflow.

I have never had a problem with OEM valvesprings up to 5500rpm or so and few 2Fs are gonna be happy any higher than that. no reason for heavier.

I can't agree with Jim on the painting it red approach though. 2Fs should be black. Any other color risks organ rejection! Although I have become partial to a clear coat over the bare cast iron when a head comes back from the hot tank, or even a coat of "cast iron" paint. A subdued and elegant look without that garish Chevy feel. ;)


Mark...
 
:bounce:

This is what happens when you paint a tractor motor red:

 
I've read too many posts on mud of people getting heads back from the shop with new guides, valves, seat, springs, yadda. IMO, if the machine shop says it needs even a few overpriced toyota guides and valves, then it's time to jump in and do the full SBC swap.

The red paint is for the "testa rossa" effect, to denote the improved head vs the stock black head. Enzo clued me in to that trick.
 
Any other stuff like grinding ports and manifold matching is stuff to do if you have nothing else going on in life.

Never a truer statement has be made here. :flipoff2:



But seriously, the only area I would put some attention into for a simple head job would be cleaning up the transition between the cast port and machined valve bowl/seat area if needed. Like here:

IMG_4264small.jpg
 
I've read too many posts on mud of people getting heads back from the shop with new guides, valves, seat, springs, yadda. IMO, if the machine shop says it needs even a few overpriced toyota guides and valves, then it's time to jump in and do the full SBC swap.

.

Agreed. I did my first "chevyization" to a Cruiser head about 20 years ago and I swear by it. But I've also seen a lot of heads that didn't really need much more than a grind and seals too.

I did not think about the 15HP gain that the red paint brings. ;)


Mark...
 
:lol:

Jim: would your recommendations hold for the 3F-E as well? I am assuming so.

Beno, the answer is yes to that one. He did the work on my 3FE head with Chevy valves and stuff. Pics are floating around in one of Jim's threads about cylinder heads.

Nick
 
I disagree with Jim and Mark on the color thing. I like anything but black on the engine block and head. That way I can see where the motor is leaking. That and it's nice to not be looking down into a black hole while trying to see/work around the engine. A nice Ford grey is good but Cat yellow is where it's at!

;)

Nick
 
If you paint it silver then it looks like aluminum and is lighter...

heh

t
 
:bounce:

This is what happens when you paint a tractor motor red:



So you're sayin all I need to convince the missus that I need a new engine is to paint the 2F red?:)
 
thread revival for purpose of asking why 1.60 exhaust valves are not used.....I know there is a good reason, and I need to find it. my machinist thinks the 1.60s will be better than the 1.50s. I am concerned that they will be too much. Thoughts?
 
Ultimate cheap & durable head:
-remove soft plug
-steam clean
-magnaflux
-mill as much as needed
-replace softplug with allen plug
-install new SBC valves, springs, hardware, yadda...
-chase all threaded holes
-paint bright red.

The advantage to doing the SBC valves & springs and attendant seat & guide work is it costs less than returning to factory spec and gives a better result.

Any other stuff like grinding ports and manifold matching is stuff to do if you have nothing else going on in life.

Don't install heavier springs unless you enjoy replacing cams & lifters.
Jim, this is only 4 1/2 years old, recent for Land Cruiser:). Parts have come out customs, finally. I am tasked today, however, to find rocker arms and valve springs. Lakeland Toyota has come up with 6 of the #1 rocker arms but only 4 of the #2 rocker arms, and no valve springs. Can you help?
 

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