How do I use High beams as a trigger for my aux lights? (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

NAPA is now selling a STEDI plug and play harness for this type of application. I just installed one on my set of led leds. Works with highbeams and separate switch. I just changed the switch to the one already mounted from my HID lights.https://www.napaonline.com/accessories/stedi-smart-harness-led-light-wiring-harness
I'll have to look into this. I may have to fall back on this harness. I'd love to have a 3 way switch control whether the aux light is on independently of any lights or is tied into the hi-beams. Like the below the video - but can't go with this as the hi-beams are negatively switched, not positive like the setup in the vid.

 
When i installed aux driving lights on mine I tapped into one of the three white wires on the light switch stalk. Can't remember exactly which one but thats what ARB said to use as it was the IPF800 series lights at the time. Being a 'signal' to the relay only was easy to do, i remember using a multimeter to probe them and used a wire tap once figured out the correct one. There is still the separate on / off switch but AUX lights only come on if that switch is on and the high beam stalk pulled back or pushed forward. The little IPF switch site on the dash next to the steering column
Hope this helps

1702203811925.png
 
I'll have to look into this. I may have to fall back on this harness. I'd love to have a 3 way switch control whether the aux light is on independently of any lights or is tied into the hi-beams. Like the below the video - but can't go with this as the hi-beams are negatively switched, not positive like the setup in the vid.


You could do this same basic setup. A 5 pin SPST relay doesn't care whether you are switching from the ground or power side. All your switch is doing is completing a circuit which allows the relay to trigger the electromagnetic coil inside (that completes the circuit to power your load). The coil has a 12v pin (85) and a ground pin (86) for the electromagnetic coil. Make one side always connected and the other switched - if you want to trigger off ground (low side switch), wire 85 direct to a power source and put your switch in the wire between 86 and your ground point. If you were doing a high side switch, you'd put your switch on the 12v side (85). It would be better if you understand what is going on not just try to copy someone else's setup without understanding it, not least of which for future troubleshooting.

And those crimp over taps are horrible, they often end up breaking multiple strands of wire due to their design. If you really have to use something that grabs signal off another wire, look into Posi-taps. They're not an ideal way, but they are a lot better.
 
Th
You could do this same basic setup. A 5 pin SPST relay doesn't care whether you are switching from the ground or power side. All your switch is doing is completing a circuit which allows the relay to trigger the electromagnetic coil inside (that completes the circuit to power your load). The coil has a 12v pin (85) and a ground pin (86) for the electromagnetic coil. Make one side always connected and the other switched - if you want to trigger off ground (low side switch), wire 85 direct to a power source and put your switch in the wire between 86 and your ground point. If you were doing a high side switch, you'd put your switch on the 12v side (85). It would be better if you understand what is going on not just try to copy someone else's setup without understanding it, not least of which for future troubleshooting.

And those crimp over taps are horrible, they often end up breaking multiple strands of wire due to their design. If you really have to use something that grabs signal off another wire, look into Posi-taps. They're not an ideal way, but they are a lot better.
Thanks. I’ll mess around with it some more. I feel that im pretty mechanically inclined, but when it comes to electrical, I have a hard time. I usually need a visual of a schematic to make it make sense:
 
so you have a 3-way switch (On-Off-On) and a Slee harness? the Slee harness should already provide a +12v lead which is energized when the high beam switch is ON. that becomes one of the positive triggers to the relay coil. the other trigger you need is +12v with the ignition on; lots of options to pick from. ground the relay coil to body ground. this is known as a positive switch system, and is the opposite of the usual ground switched approach Toyota and BMW uses in its circuits

sketch out your plan and post it here. you do the hard work, and we'll critique it. but i'm not doing the work for you! plus i also dont know exactly what switch you are using, etc.
 
so you have a 3-way switch (On-Off-On) and a Slee harness? the Slee harness should already provide a +12v lead which is energized when the high beam switch is ON. that becomes one of the positive triggers to the relay coil. the other trigger you need is +12v with the ignition on; lots of options to pick from. ground the relay coil to body ground. this is known as a positive switch system, and is the opposite of the usual ground switched approach Toyota and BMW uses in its circuits

sketch out your plan and post it here. you do the hard work, and we'll critique it. but i'm not doing the work for you! plus i also dont know exactly what switch you are using, etc.
IMG_9820.jpeg

So here’s how I currently have it wired using the Slee harness high beam connector. My issue is this… with the switch in the on position, the light bar is turning on when the low beams are switched on, not when switching from low to high. Am I missing something?

We’ll ignore the switched 12V to one side of the 3-way for simplicity sake.
 
looks like you have the wiring right. but that 12v lead from the slee harness isn't what you think it is. does the harness come w/ a lead for fogs (low beam on) and a lead for driving lights (high beam on)? i don't have that harness but i thought it supported both. put a voltmeter on that lead and see what it reads w/ lights off, on, and highs on.
 
Unless I am mistaken, the slee headlight harness for the 80 that I am using offers an always on when the lights are on and a high beam trigger option. Connectors G and H on their diagram. Option 1 and option 2 in the aux harness manual.


What it doesn't have is an low beam triggered option. Again, unless I am mistaken. I thought it did initially and when I wired up my fogs to it, I was backfeeding power and it caused the hibeam fuse to blow several times until I realized the issue.
 
Last edited:
Unless I am mistaken, the slee headlight harness for the 80 that I am using offers an always on when the lights are on and a high beam trigger option. Connectors G and H on their diagram. Option 1 and option 2 in the aux harness manual.


What it doesn't have is an low beam triggered option. Again, unless I am mistaken. I thought it did initially and when I wired up my fogs to it, I was backfeeding power and it caused the hibeam fuse to blow several times until I realized the issue.
Ok I figured it out... I needed the ground on the high beam connector to go to the 85/ground on the relay. I was running 85 to ground on my fuse block. The lo beams are positively switched and the hi beams are negatively switched so once I was turning the Lo Beams on, there was positive running from Lo to Hi to the relay then to ground turning on my light bar.

I think I might need to do a separate relay circuit with a switched 12v connection for the light to run independently.

Putting the relay between the 12v and ground on the hi beam connector is the solution... Electrical does not come intuitively to me, so when it becomes clearer, it's this combination of "Aha!" and "I'm an idiot"
 
Another one…..

I have the Slee Headlight Harness and Slee auxiliary harnesses plugged into the brights.

Here’s what’s happening:

Aux lights will come on whenever the headlights are on, not just bright.

Aux lights started staying on even after the in cab switch (Toyota fogs) was switched to off and only turned off when the headlights were turned off.

Any ideas? I pulled the fuses until I can figure it out….
 
There are two options for plugging the Slee auxiliary harness into the Slee headlight harness. One option makes it so the auxiliary lights are triggered any time the headlights are on, the other option makes it so the auxiliary lights are triggered only when the high beams are on. It sounds like you have the auxiliary harness plugged into the plug where the auxiliary lights come on any time the headlights are on. You can move the auxiliary harness trigger to the other plug to alter that behavior so the auxiliary lights are triggered when the high beams are on.
 
There are two options for plugging the Slee auxiliary harness into the Slee headlight harness. One option makes it so the auxiliary lights are triggered any time the headlights are on, the other option makes it so the auxiliary lights are triggered only when the high beams are on. It sounds like you have the auxiliary harness plugged into the plug where the auxiliary lights come on any time the headlights are on. You can move the auxiliary harness trigger to the other plug to alter that behavior so the auxiliary lights are triggered when the high beams are on.
One socket is for low beams, the other for high per the instructions. Aux come on high or low.
 
Last edited:
If you are stupid, then I am too. I thought the same thing (the other plug was trigger for low beam only) and was having backfeeding and blowing fuses until I reread the instructions. I wish it was a low beam trigger though...
 
If you are stupid, then I am too. I thought the same thing (the other plug was trigger for low beam only) and was having backfeeding and blowing fuses until I reread the instructions. I wish it was a low beam trigger though...
what do you mean by low beam trigger? aux lights turn on with the low beam, and off w/ the high beams? or something else? and for what purpose? fog lights turning off with high beams?
i've only wired in aux lights with manual on/off, but can see the allure of high beam switched. not sure what else you would require?
 
what do you mean by low beam trigger? aux lights turn on with the low beam, and off w/ the high beams? or something else? and for what purpose? fog lights turning off with high beams?
i've only wired in aux lights with manual on/off, but can see the allure of high beam switched. not sure what else you would require?
I have two sets of Diode Dynamics auxiliary lights. One set is a sae combo lens one is a sae fog. Both have in cab switches. The sae combo is powered only when the high beams are on via the slee harness. The sae fog is on the always on when the lights are on branch of the slee circuit. The sae combo is on the high beam triggered circuit, so comes on if the in cab switch is on.

This is all to supplement the crappy stock 90's lighting.

I'd like it if when I have both in cab switches on, the sae fogs only come on when low beams are on, and the sae combo come on when the high beams are on.

The current behavior is that both sets of auxiliary lights are on when the high beams are on and both switches are on. End of the world? Nope. Would I like it different? Yes.
 
At least in my case, the directions were wrong; red/black switch for high beams and grey/white for headlights on. This is opposite of directions. (Pic below was switching on with headlights)

Now…..one set of fogs stays on the high beams are turned off. Can be turned off only with aux switch or turning headlights off completely. Any ideas?


IMG_2683.jpeg
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom