How come I have to blip the throttle to get my 3b to run when cold? (1 Viewer)

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Reinhardtius said:
EDIC behavior when cold:
Click to expand...

Doesn't sound like it has any fuel. If diesels get an air leak , it can often cause the fuel to run back to the tank overnight.
Have you tried giving its some throttle while you crank the starter?
If they are getting a small amount of fuel , they usually pump out some half burnt exhaust smoke and the starter slows down a little.
 
i agree with rosco , since the edic doesn't shut off the pump the problem is probally in the fuel line ....
and probally in the suction part ...

i don't remember if someone told you but you can feed the pump from a little provvisory tank (like a gerrycan) using a new short hose, prime the circuit , run the engine for few minutes.

then let sit a night / day and see if it starts or not...
 
I may have a lead to my problem: all the
glow plus have resistance way over 1 ohm

Most triggered OL (over limit) on the multimeter, and some were between 72,000 ohms and 130,000 ohms.

As far as I understand, glow plug resistance should be less than 1 ohm.



tornio said:
i agree with rosco , since the edic doesn't shut off the pump the problem is probally in the fuel line ....
and probally in the suction part ...

i don't remember if someone told you but you can feed the pump from a little provvisory tank (like a gerrycan) using a new short hose, prime the circuit , run the engine for few minutes.

then let sit a night / day and see if it starts or not...
Click to expand...

I think fuel is OK, I popped the plunger and it shot straight up after serval days sitting, which indicates to me that pressure is good and there is no air leak.

7DE4CBCA-A12F-470C-9C93-15E04524577C.jpeg
 
Yep... Plugs are shot... Replace and see what happens!
 
Pretty normal too. When one fails, the rest go pretty quickly as they mess with the resistance readings and the system can over glow the remaining plugs...
 
BreckenridgeCruiser said:
Pretty normal too. When one fails, the rest go pretty quickly as they mess with the resistance readings and the system can over glow the remaining plugs...
Click to expand...
i don't think so , i think that a glowplug is a pure resistive load wich absorb the current by his internal resistance... like a classic bulbs in parallel if one fail the Others can "run" untill dead

maybe if one fail means that all are olds not only who failed first

replace. ! and good luck
 
coldtaco said:
Just know how to shut off the engine with edic not connected :)
Click to expand...
he he he o yes , the first time i discovered it was a lot of years ago, 20 years +/- ,
i arrived at home and the bj won't shutt offo_O

so i opened the hood and i saw the negative cable of the 2° battery disconnected and when i connected i saw the edic arm doing his work !
shutting the engine. at that time i didn't even knew the word EDIC.. !!!

exscuse me for the off topic !
 
I was talking more about how resistance is read by the super glow system... With a plug out, the numbers would change.
 
yes the sum resistance would change but :

before a little elecnotrics law (ohm law) : the total the current flowing in the circuit is given by the voltage / resistance so the less the R the more A , more R = less A

i wrote a little but to be honest is the first law which controls everythings

and at given voltage is the load that absorb "his current" given by his internal resistance if the voltage reamain the same only the resistance control the current flowing

a BURNT glowplug show infinite resistance because it is interrupted


so the sum of the resistance (glowplug are parallel ) is MORE than normal and the super glow circuit (sensing more resistance) feeds the busbar for a shorter time... even doesn't feed at all as if the glowplug were hot

it could be that a completely burnt glowplug can disables all glowplug system because the glow plug circuit see a bigger resistance as if
glowplug were already hot, infact this system was thought to reduce the current when the glowplug were hot enough

for what i understand :

1 superglow : a faulty glowplug does not cause of burning the Others maybe it not feed at all if the total resistence is similar to 4 hot glowplug

2 classic glow, like "Wilson switch" that off course needs a completely different type of glow plug and only a timer ( or watch :zilla:) :
a faulty glow plug does not cause of burning the Others because they are in simple parallel, like the bulbs in your huose.
and by ohm law being the resistance of 3 glowplug in parallel bigger than 4 the total current will be lower

if you want to understand more about super glow and glow system in general there are a lot here on mud ... don't think i don't want to explain but to be honest my English is not the best and here on mud you can find a lot written better/correct

check this
Which plugs should I be running - B, 2B, 3B, H and 2H diesels
read untill the end
but there are Others , search

good luck and keep us informed , who knows ? maybe one day i ll have the same problem !
if we can 'll help you
 
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It's been a long time since I've thought about this but what I was describing is based on the change of resistance read by the super glow system...

From what I remember, the system is not set to look for a certain amount of resistance, but to look for a certain amount of change in the resistance. With that being the case, then a dead plug will not be read at all (resistance does not change). Also, the three other plugs will need to get to a higher temperature to have the same resistance as four plugs at a lower temp.

I may be incorrect, but that was what I remember about the system... Would love to be corrected if that is not right. Perhaps they tend to all go at the same time as people tend to change plugs all at once and not change one at a time so when one is worn out, they all are worn out.
 
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I just received new OE plugs. I checked the new plug’s resistance, all .5-.6 ohms. I installed and glowed, and the truck is not any easier to start.

I ran the multimeter from battery positive to the nut portion of the glow plugs, and I get 32-33V. The truck is 24V.

3F88A8D8-A064-415E-9CC1-E1143CB4090B.jpeg


5AD4A5E0-244F-4022-9B19-BEA780C8290E.jpeg
 
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High voltage like that sometimes means a bad ground somewhere... You should check the grounds from the engine block to the frame, as well as in the super glow system if there are any dedicated grounds to the body or engine..

I was going that would have fixed your issue, but now we know the plugs aren't the only cause of issues..
 
BreckenridgeCruiser said:
High voltage like that sometimes means a bad ground somewhere... You should check the grounds from the engine block to the frame, as well as in the super glow system if there are any dedicated grounds to the body or engine..

I was going that would have fixed your issue, but now we know the plugs aren't the only cause of issues..
Click to expand...

Thanks! I’ll check tonight!
 
It is impossible to get 33v out of a 24v system with the engine stationary.
If you are getting that with the engine running, the charge rate is too high.
 
Wait, the truck was not running when you got the 30+v right? It's not actually getting the high voltage, you are just seeing it due to bad grounding... I didn't believe it either until I saw it on my 24v rig... Someone tried to explain it to me, but I was focused on trying to fix my starting issue...

The issue is that if you have a bad ground, your plugs will not flow electricity properly and will not heat up properly... Think if electricity like water... It will always for to the path of least resistance. With a bad ground, glow can go backwards and out somewhere else and show crazy behavior... So if your plugs (which ground through the head/block and therefore the block's ground strap) don't have aa goo ground, electricity will not flow through them at the appropriate rate.
 
BreckenridgeCruiser said:
Wait, the truck was not running when you got the 30+v right? It's not actually getting the high voltage, you are just seeing it due to bad grounding... I didn't believe it either until I saw it on my 24v rig... Someone tried to explain it to me, but I was focused on trying to fix my starting issue...

The issue is that if you have a bad ground, your plugs will not flow electricity properly and will not heat up properly... Think if electricity like water... It will always for to the path of least resistance. With a bad ground, glow can go backwards and out somewhere else and show crazy behavior... So if your plugs (which ground through the head/block and therefore the block's ground strap) don't have aa goo ground, electricity will not flow through them at the appropriate rate.
Click to expand...

The truck draws 25.42V when not running from positive terminal to glow plug head. When running, it draws 32-34V. Harder to start today. Temps cooler.

Still sound like a ground issue?
 
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