Hood prop rod

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Can't argue that. For clarification: Toyota 53451-60010

Mine came from Toyota parts, not sure of the number/application (possibly FJ62), it's shorter than ideal. Inkpot's came from the pick&pull, not sure what Toyota it came from, but is longer/better.
 
Mine definitely came from a 97 Tacoma, bought it new at the dealer with the rubber bushing and the plastic clip.
 
Make Number Name Availability Weight Ship In, Days Price
Toyota Motor Corp.

One of the most famous Japanese automakers is Toyota. The company Toyota Motor Co. was founded in 1937, and the first released car became Model AA (off the line a year earlier, when the company was still a part of the Toyoda Automatic Loom Works).

Toyota Motor Corporation was formed by the merger of Toyota Motor Co. and Toyota Motor Sales Co. in 1982. Today, the corporation has a strong industrial base and producing companies operating in several countries. It also has a well-developed network of representation offices and service centers that deal with car sales, spare parts supply and servicing.

" class="sr-name withajaxpopover popup-ajax" href="Toyota | Brands | PartSouq Auto Parts Around the World" style="box-sizing: border-box; color: rgb(64, 64, 64);">Toyota
5345160010
ROD, HOOD SUPPORT
22
0.35
1
13.45$

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Got the mystical Hood Prop Rod this morning.

Now...next question:

Why is it that FedEx can get a part all the way from the UAE (8,000 miles away) to a ranch in rural Deep East Texas in THREE DAYS and USPS can't get my mail to me from Houston inside of a week?

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Is there any reason you can't retain the hood struts when adding a hood prop? Does the hood open farther necessitating the removal of the hood struts?

I'd like to have the hood prop just for back up.

I have both, rod and struts :meh:
 
I have both, rod and struts :meh:

Did the same with mine. Left the struts in place. They lift the hood just a bit beyond the height of the hood prop, but the prop stays in place against the strut pressure and IF the hood were to try to close it still stays in the hole in the hood that is there for the prop. So...I'm covered either way.

I readily concede most folks will not need a hood prop, but if you decide you do (for whatever reason) it is an inexpensive item to add.

Thank you... to those providing part numbers and sources.

Flint.
 
Well after having my hood almost smack me in the head today, i said to hell with it, it was time for a prop rod, so i just made my own. All it took was a piece of cold roll round stock, and a map torch. I heating, and bent the steel to a shape that looked like it would work. After a little more fitting, machining, and trimming i had a rod that worked great.

One difference between my home made rod, and the factory Toyota rod, my finished rod is about 3 inch's longer than the factory rod. The reason for the longer length, it holds the hood open to the same height as the factory struts do when they are fully extended.

Since the material i used to make my rod was was a little larger in diameter (7/16) than the metric rod (10MM), the factory prop rod clip would not work to hold my rod. So i had to make my own prop rod clip, i made it out of 1 inch black Delrin, and machined it to fit.

All in all i have about 5 bucks in material, paint, and around an hour of my time involved in making this part. Now i know someone will ask why not just buy the factory rod, i say why buy it when you can make it yourself.

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Well after having my hood almost smack me in the head today, i said to hell with it, it was time for a prop rod, so i just made my own. All it took was a piece of cold roll round stock, and a map torch. I heating, and bent the steel to a shape that looked like it would work. After a little more fitting, machining, and trimming i had a rod that worked great.

Since the material i used to make my rod was was a little larger in diameter (7/16) than the metric rod (10MM), the factory prop rod clip would not work to hold my rod.

'Magnum' prop rod.
 
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'Magnum' prop rod.
You know what they say, go big, or go home. In all reality the difference between my home made prop rod, and the factory one, is a little more than a 1/32 of an inch bigger. Ten MM is equal to .393, and 7/16 is equal to .437 an overall difference of .044.
 

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