Builds Homer's 2003 GX470 Build 8.2 4.56 2.5 34s (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter HomersCanyonero
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I’ve got 650s on my Radflos and they are too soft with my bumper and winch. I’m swapping them to 700s as soon as my local shop has time to get me in.
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- #283
I'm at a tire shop getting my new Bilstein 6112 coilovers installed.
My current coilover was seized at the top 3-bolts in the hat. Took 25 minutes to get it out after adding penetrating fluid and using a hammer and crowbar.
My Bilstein 6112 are so original that the design changed on the new ones. Look at the shorter rod and beefier top. I didn’t realize the design had changed.
Old Front coilovers are Bilstein 6112 kit #46-227287 with 600 lbf/in coils and the new one is kit #47-284142 with heavy coils at 700 lbf/in.
My current coilover was seized at the top 3-bolts in the hat. Took 25 minutes to get it out after adding penetrating fluid and using a hammer and crowbar.
My Bilstein 6112 are so original that the design changed on the new ones. Look at the shorter rod and beefier top. I didn’t realize the design had changed.
Old Front coilovers are Bilstein 6112 kit #46-227287 with 600 lbf/in coils and the new one is kit #47-284142 with heavy coils at 700 lbf/in.
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- #284
And of course tire shop mentions that the bushings in my front sway bar end links are shot! I guess opportunity to upgrade again? Lol
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- #285
I wish I could have traded you the 650s for these 700s…I have no weight up front!
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- #286
Well...my initial reaction to the 700 lbf/in springs in the front is not bad. The ride home was only 5 minutes on city streets, but the ride wasn't noticeably different. Maybe a little stiffer (or as some you might say more sporty).
After a week of city driving, it looks like the front has settled a little. These Bilstein 6112s kit #47-284142 with the heavier 700 lbf/in coils on the 3rd circlip (from the bottom) is about the same as the Bilstein 6112 #46-227287 with 600 lbf/in coils on the 5th circlip (from the bottom). I'm sitting at about 22 1/2" in the front hub to fender (plus or minus 1/8").
I'm pretty level now, but I might sag a little in the rear if I add more cargo weight.
After a week of city driving, it looks like the front has settled a little. These Bilstein 6112s kit #47-284142 with the heavier 700 lbf/in coils on the 3rd circlip (from the bottom) is about the same as the Bilstein 6112 #46-227287 with 600 lbf/in coils on the 5th circlip (from the bottom). I'm sitting at about 22 1/2" in the front hub to fender (plus or minus 1/8").
I'm pretty level now, but I might sag a little in the rear if I add more cargo weight.
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- #288
I wasn’t aware of the design changes to the Bilstein 6112s, but then again I don’t follow shock design improvements for a living.
After changing the front coilovers, an alignment is due. Im at the alignment shop getting my 5th alignment in 3 years. This is the last one as part of the 3-year alignment plan I purchased on 1/05/2019 for $199 at American Tire Depot.
They didn’t try to extend my plan. Not sure why, but tires are half worn by now. Im thinking that with 50% thread left or less, no more alignments until my next set or I really misalign it bad offroad.
In my case, it looks like the tie and steer ahead got affected by hammering off off the old coilovers
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@HomersCanyonero - Just curious, were you getting a noticeable nose drive on hard braking with the original 600lb springs? I just refreshed my suspension like your original 6112 setup (4th from bottom circlip setting) and hate the nose diving I get. Causes it to brake steer also (could be my brakes)
If so, did the 700lb springs help the nose dive? Havent refreshed the rear shocks, not sure if thatd make a difference.
If so, did the 700lb springs help the nose dive? Havent refreshed the rear shocks, not sure if thatd make a difference.
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- #290
Under most braking conditions including hard braking on the streets, I was NOT getting a nose dive with the standard 600 lbf/in coils that come with the Bilstein 6112 kit. I was on the 5th circlip from the bottom (or second circlip from the top). Also, I tried various rears from air springs with stock stocks, to then OME shocks, to then ICON 56550 shocks. I did not see any nose dives. I also daily drive with no extra weight in the cargo area.
I did get a nose dive once when I almost crashed going 50 MPH in a paved highway in Joshua Tree NP. I was on my way out of the park and a Prius coming off a paved parking lot didn't stop and turned into my driving lane right in front of me. I slammed on the brakes and I did nose dive significantly. I'm not sure if that's normal in emergency braking conditions to nose dive that much.
I only upgraded to the heavy Bilstein 6112s with the 700 lbf/in by mistake. I thought the heavy kit was only 50 lbf/in more, so I figured an extra 50 lbf/in wouldn't hurt. However, it's 100 lbf/in more and I almost regretted getting these heavy coils up front with no extra weight.
I'll try to break hard around my neighborhood later today to see if there's any difference, but I wasn't getting nose dives before.
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- #291
Raptor lights working now off the a/c-heater fuse #21. I updated the post on this tap-a-fuse method, but it was a journey full of turns. I'm just glad it's working. If you see me with the raptor lights on, that means I have the air on! LOL
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- #292
@DRANGED I checked with a friend's GX470 with a stock grille and his installation matches mine. The bolt heads are facing the ground, then the stock oem grille plastic tab, then the metal latch plate. In your picture, your bolt heads appear to be facing up (not down towards the ground). Just wanted to let you know what I found out.Man, I was psyched on my install. Critical fuse.. did you have to put it like that?
Here is the latch. The key is mounting the latch on the bottom side of the grille's mounting tab, not on the tip side..
It's still a little finicky and I think that mounting tab could be a bit better reinforced, some grind the latch hook for better clearance, I just finesse the handle side.
View attachment 2874476View attachment 2874477View attachment 2874478View attachment 2874479View attachment 2874480View attachment 2874481View attachment 2874482View attachment 2874483
Here’s his photo….
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- #293
I’m at a tire shop waiting for my LS460 broken lug stud repair and I see this poster and symptoms of worn shocks.
Take it for what it’s worth, but look at the nose dive photo…
Take it for what it’s worth, but look at the nose dive photo…
Since that's 3d printed you'd need to paint it or its pretty guaranteed to fall apart within a year or 2
Hmmm...
IIRC, I have them that way because:
A: when fitted with the grill below the plate, you can't unhook the latch...
B: I think the metal plate has the captive threads so i figured I'd sandwich the aftermarket plastic plate with the bolts and captive threads.... It still requires some finesse to unhook, but can be done.
I should revisit, and you can see the impression from the washer so yeah it was bolts from below, But i think the plate has captive threads so it made sense to go top-down to capture the plastic.. (but, yeah i see how stock is plastic below and bolts going up...
The first way I had it i couldn't unlatch it AT ALL...
I do wish I'd taken pix before messing with it, i was mod-eager so just got it done...
thanks for that pic!! What year is friend's GX?
makes me wonder though... That seems easy enough to mess with... I would like the hood latch to be like stock though, as it is, others can't open the hood and that's no good.
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- #296
Re: thanks for that pic!! What year is friend's GX?
He has two GX470s. One is a 2005 and the other is a 2007. I believe he sent the picture from his 2007.
And if it's working for you, then just leave it. Mine is working great. I've opened the hood like 10 times trying to do my raptor lights and testing the hood latch!
He has two GX470s. One is a 2005 and the other is a 2007. I believe he sent the picture from his 2007.
And if it's working for you, then just leave it. Mine is working great. I've opened the hood like 10 times trying to do my raptor lights and testing the hood latch!
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- #297
I didn't buy the grille logo insert from Etsy, so I'm not sure about its quality.
3D printed parts can be very strong and durable and this listing is probably pretty good quality. The listing says PETG which is the best material choice for anything that will be outside. It has better impact resistance and is more UV stable than ABS which used to be the best choice. Still best to paint anything 3d printed if it needs to last outside.
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- #299
Update on my heavy front coils 700 lbf/in. I originally thought they were going to be too stiff considering i have a stock bumper and no extra weight.
However, the 700 lbf/in coils ride nice. Not too stiff. And I started to pay attention to the GX470 nose diving when I brake hard.
I can now say that it’s not nose diving at all. It stays higher up than when I was using the standard 600 lbf/in coils. It took me a while to realize that the front wasn’t going down as far as before.
I didn’t think the 600 lbf/in coils were nose diving, but these 700 lbf/in coils hold up the front much better
However, the 700 lbf/in coils ride nice. Not too stiff. And I started to pay attention to the GX470 nose diving when I brake hard.
I can now say that it’s not nose diving at all. It stays higher up than when I was using the standard 600 lbf/in coils. It took me a while to realize that the front wasn’t going down as far as before.
I didn’t think the 600 lbf/in coils were nose diving, but these 700 lbf/in coils hold up the front much better
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I’m really looking forward to getting the 700# springs in a couple of weeks.
