I started building my fridge slide today for my Edgestar 63 quart and was able to complete the build, just need to find the hardware to bolt it to the floor and take it apart (just the slides) to prime and paint it. I used 3/4" sanded plywood (about a half sheet), and I regret that I did. It chips easily if you are drilling near an edge and the piece I bought had a large bow all the way across. Lesson learned, buy quality flat plywood.
The unit is 30"x20" and is probably less than 6" tall and weighs 40lbs. For the slides, I used 22", 100lb slides from lowes ($19 per set). Probably overkill for the shelf, but they didn't have anything else in 22".
I wanted to make it as low profile as possible and in doing that I didn't think about clearance for the bottom side of the top anchors. You can see in the picture on post #36 where I had planned to put the anchor, where the hole in the corner is. So I was left with the choice of making the fridge slide walls taller, using lag eye bolts, or moving the anchors in and over the shelf (which I did as it was the easiest). I used fender washers on the bottom of the eye bolts and positioned them right on the edge. After I installed the eye bolt anchors, the fridge fit perfectly between them (unplanned). Looking at it now, I don't think making the slide unit any taller would be a real option. The Edgestar fridge is pretty tall and it is maxed out on clearance when the slide is extended and the fridge door is opened.
The bottom of the unit just barely covers the front third row seat anchor. So I plan to use a J-bolt on that one and a U-bolt on the rear third row seat anchor. In hind sight, I should have made the unit about 2" longer so I could use a U-bolt on both (and the fridge wouldn't be so tight on top).
I used a square linch pin to secure the shelf to the fridge slide and I found it doubles as a nice handle. I drilled a hole through the unit on the all the way to left side and used an Allen wrench like a pin until I find something better. I did install a vertical back wall on the unit to act as an additional stop. The lowes slides, the stop tabs will bend from the weight of everything pushing against it over and over, so a back is a must.
My only other concern is securing the slides. Since I used 3/4" sanded ply, it's hard to get a lot of bite with screws. I may just bolt through in places if there is enough clearance. It's a cheap build and I realize its not perfect and won't last forever. Sorry in advance for the multiple posts, I couldn't post more than one picture per post on my ipad.
someday i'll do a slide...being short,it's hard for me to get into the rig to look in the fridge. i should've checked it out in rubicon. should've bought an engel too, but my waeco was $250. someday it will work right. 
to hold it down, i'm using turnbuckles with the "s" hooks from broken bungie cords. works great and you can adjust tension.
