Homebrew FIPK, K&N Drop-in Filter, Deckplate, and cleaned MAF/TB = HP!

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damnit, the deckplates we have at work are 6" industrial drains...

so I go to home depot and try to find a deck plate and just my luck, home depot employees have never seen a 4" deckplate...wth

What section should I search for the deck plate?

Found these online from a link in another forum
http://www.overtons.com/modperl/pro...ith_Smooth_Center&str=deck+plate&merchID=4005

Is 4" the inner diameter that you guys used? Or is that outer diameter?
 
I imagine the dimensions are of the opening. I'd check in a marine store too.
 
I imagine the dimensions are of the opening. I'd check in a marine store too.

Checked out best marine in milpitas, they have it.

I will swing by tomorrow to pick it up...I am running measurements to see if either the 5" or 6" ID deckplate will work as well
 
4" is about as big as you will fit, and besides, you don't need any larger for the ADDITIONAL airflow.

K.
I.
S.
S.
 
Went out yesterday when traffic was down and drove it as hard as I could on tue interstate and around small city blocks with full throttle furry every stop light. Intake tube gets hot, I never gauged the stock one. So far I love it, I had a dream last night that my truck overheated and caught fire, hopefully that dream doesn't come true and those lines aren't THAT important. Gas mileage... Can't tell, tue needle drops just as fast as before. Which is pretty damn quick

I will start on my hoses this Friday.
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Didn't pfran go through all the differences between the straight pipe and the deck-plate upgrade? He discovered the striaght pipe was more important than the deckplate, IIRC.
 
I did not go full retard as nick said....I did not add any mesh to the deckplate but just wanted to share the deckplate that I used along with using window weld rather than silicone

As you can see, the cut that I made was not straight or perfectly round(at first). Just cut an opening roughly the size of the deckplate. I used a drillbit and maneuvered it to make an almost circle lol then went ahead and filed down the sides with the dremel. The deckplate was about $8 and is the seadog brand with twist and lock cap. I dremeled out the grooves on the outside of the air cleaner but thats only because I wanted the deckplate to sit flush with the airbox.

So now...I want to do an intake but what do I do about those damn air-lines that Nick ignored?:grinpimp: Anyone solve this yet?
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Whoa, looks like you held a hamster captive in there!

If you decide you totally botched the job, I have an extra airbox. I would be hesitant to do any intake mods in CA. A strict smog tech can fail you for that alone.
 
I'm more excited about the straight pipe than the deck-plate. I think there are some mixed results from the deck-plate mod. Seat of the pants meter is saying the mod is worth doing; but dyno results implied that the disrupted airflow may be just as detrimental as the benefit of air flow volume.
 
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Whoa, looks like you held a hamster captive in there!

If you decide you totally botched the job, I have an extra airbox. I would be hesitant to do any intake mods in CA. A strict smog tech can fail you for that alone.

Lol thanks for the extra airbox offer man:D But thats my preliminary cut, the cleaned up cut is cleaner after being filed down!

Good point on the smog tech, how bout if I put the deckplate cover back on? Will that basically return my smog(ness?lol) back in stock form?
 
Why didn't you remove the airbox??? It's a few bolts. I would start over.

It's a $600 airbox from Toyota. Make your cuts small and carefully.

On another note... I heard thunder but forgot about my gaping hole in my airbox. Decided to go flying down 285 and the rain hit, hit hard. I stepped on it and the sound reminded me, I s*** my pants thinking WATER+ENGINE=Empty bank account and pulled off. I did about 15 miles in pouring rain at 65mph with spray from other vehicles. Airbox was damp, filter was dry. All is well.


Ad LJ, wrapping wire ends around eac other and putting painters tape is not a good way to complete your wiring job. Spend your money on some nice waterproof connectors and make it look nice. You spent way to much money on your headlights to have painters tape holding your twisty connector together.
 
Why didn't you remove the airbox??? It's a few bolts. I would start over.

It's a $600 airbox from Toyota. Make your cuts small and carefully.

On another note... I heard thunder but forgot about my gaping hole in my airbox. Decided to go flying down 285 and the rain hit, hit hard. I stepped on it and the sound reminded me, I s*** my pants thinking WATER+ENGINE=Empty bank account and pulled off. I did about 15 miles in pouring rain at 65mph with spray from other vehicles. Airbox was damp, filter was dry. All is well.

I made a cut that was not round but significantly smaller than the actual deck plate so I could file it down to a perfect circle, this was easier than the retrofit lol

Now figure out those hoses:D And rain in the middle of summer?:censor:

I got lazy on the wiring..I will be taking the CCFL out anyway since I am changing over to the e46 shroud
 
I just gotta ask... does it matter to you that the dyno that tarmacblack did showed no improvement?
 
Good point on the smog tech, how bout if I put the deckplate cover back on? Will that basically return my smog(ness?lol) back in stock form?

Probably fine if you just paint the deckplate black to more closely match the air box. Then keep it closed up when you get a smog done.
 
OregonLC said:
I just gotta ask... does it matter to you that the dyno that tarmacblack did showed no improvement?

I don't think HP changed, but tue kickdown and the way it accelerates seems smoother. If it makes a line squiggly on a sheet of paper big deal. I felt that it breathes better, it's more responsive and crisper. I know the line is important. I would like to do a few runs with a straight tube intake with no deck plate, and then a few with a deck plate to see if it's the deck plate or intake tube that creates the fuel system shutter.
 
Rich - are you interested in making some of these and what would you charge?

Let me add up the material costs for everything (tubing, fittings, couplers, clamps, etc) and then I'll post back what I would be willing to make them for.

I concur with everyone else who does the modification, the truck definitely seems much more responsive. I tried to line up a 4wd dyno to test it myself, but when I went to dyno it, the wheelbase adjustment on the dyno was broken so the LC wouldn't fit.

rich
 
richg said:
Let me add up the material costs for everything (tubing, fittings, couplers, clamps, etc) and then I'll post back what I would be willing to make them for.

I concur with everyone else who does the modification, the truck definitely seems much more responsive. I tried to line up a 4wd dyno to test it myself, but when I went to dyno it, the wheelbase adjustment on the dyno was broken so the LC wouldn't fit.

rich

Let us know. I may be interested in replacing my homebrew with one that has all the ports.
 
Let us know. I may be interested in replacing my homebrew with one that has all the ports.

Richg, I am in if you decide to make a run of these as well, it will save me some $$$$ if I do it right the first time rather than replace it somewhere down the line
 

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