Homebrew FIPK, K&N Drop-in Filter, Deckplate, and cleaned MAF/TB = HP! (1 Viewer)

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One dyno location in Atlanta that can fit a 4WD vehicle the size of the LC. $65for 3 runs...

Jesus.

Who wants to help pay for this experiment? :D

I'm seriously broke but want to offer my vehicle and time for the mud group.

I can arrange for you to get on a dyno in the Atlanta area (2wd Mustang) for cheap, possibly free.

If your truck has a center diff lock (all hundy's did right?) it's literally a 10 minute job to get it ready for the dyno.

AWD dynos can be sketchy with active center diffs. An in-experienced operator can quickly cause damage to the drive-train, so if you go to a dyno be sure to ask the operator how the dyno handles active center diff vehicles. We have both at our facility, an AWD dynojet, and two 2wd superflows. I chose the superflow because the diff was out of the truck, and the repeat-ability has been much better on the superflow than it has been on the dynojetc.

I've driven with the deckplate out since the initial dyno run (approximately 5k miles), its had more than enough time to re-learn, and I honestly couldn't tell you if the car has picked up any noticeable power. The deck plate hasn't gone back in due to the o-ring being destroyed and me being to lazy to go find a new one :). I can only dream of being able to chirp my 315s, i'm no where close to that even in 2wd!

If you're serious, I'll be happy to try and help make arrangements to get you on the mustang dyno. 2wd or 4wd isn't going to change the way the engine performs under load on the dyno.

Let me know if you'd like me to make the call.
 
I'm also willing to dyno any member's vehicle with this mod who's in the northern utah area. Like I said before we've got both dynos so a local truck could be run on either.

I'm happy to help the board debunk/satisfy/disprove/prove anything they'd like when it comes to cruisers and HP output. I just hope that my efforts and experience aren't overlooked or belittled without first seeing some hard data. ;)
 
Ok, so in reference to hoser's article. I have personal experience to "resonators" or plenums as they are called in the racing world. The first picture shows an intake on the back of our school's SAE formula car. As you can see, there is a nickle size restrictor just after the throttle body that then leads into the plenum. This plenum allows there to be a chamber of available air into the engine so that under hard acceleration the engine will not choke on the restrictor. This plenum has also been tuned to the engine (525cc). One WOT has been established and RPMs have increased, the plenum has less effect on the performance of the engine. It is during the low end operation at which it is beneficial.

The second picture shows a stock LX/LC engine and intake. See and similarities?

Is that a KTM RFS engine in the SAE car? Were you guys allowed any engine mods, or did you have to keep the engine "stock"?

Very cool!
 
Yes it is sir! Out of a Polaris Outlaw 525 (actually 510ccs). We could do essentially anything to the engine, supercharge, turbo, bore, etc. as long as everything flowed through that little restrictor and kept it under 600ccs. The biggest modification done to the engine was fuel injection.

Our school used to use 4 cylinder Honda and Suzuki engines but decided to go with the single cylinder for weight savings due to the major power loss from the restrictor. This little engine has PLENTY of power.
 
Yes it is sir! Out of a Polaris Outlaw 525 (actually 510ccs). We could do essentially anything to the engine, supercharge, turbo, bore, etc. as long as everything flowed through that little restrictor and kept it under 600ccs. The biggest modification done to the engine was fuel injection.

Our school used to use 4 cylinder Honda and Suzuki engines but decided to go with the single cylinder for weight savings due to the major power loss from the restrictor. This little engine has PLENTY of power.

What did you use for Engine Control when you did the fuel injection conversion? I'd be really interested in talking more with you on that subject. I have two of those engines in play toys at the house.
 
I can arrange for you to get on a dyno in the Atlanta area (2wd Mustang) for cheap, possibly free.

If your truck has a center diff lock (all hundy's did right?) it's literally a 10 minute job to get it ready for the dyno.

AWD dynos can be sketchy with active center diffs. An in-experienced operator can quickly cause damage to the drive-train, so if you go to a dyno be sure to ask the operator how the dyno handles active center diff vehicles. We have both at our facility, an AWD dynojet, and two 2wd superflows. I chose the superflow because the diff was out of the truck, and the repeat-ability has been much better on the superflow than it has been on the dynojetc.

I've driven with the deckplate out since the initial dyno run (approximately 5k miles), its had more than enough time to re-learn, and I honestly couldn't tell you if the car has picked up any noticeable power. The deck plate hasn't gone back in due to the o-ring being destroyed and me being to lazy to go find a new one :). I can only dream of being able to chirp my 315s, i'm no where close to that even in 2wd!

If you're serious, I'll be happy to try and help make arrangements to get you on the mustang dyno. 2wd or 4wd isn't going to change the way the engine performs under load on the dyno.

Let me know if you'd like me to make the call.


Would plugging a AFR meter or computer into the OBDII port and monitoring everything while driving around be better for a "real-time" test?

(PM Sent)
 
So I feel like my mpg's improved slightly...well keeping my driving style the same of course along with the deckplate mod...is this at all possible or a part of my imagination? I drove up and down the Santa cruz mountains last week and my mileage so far is better than what I usually get in a normal week before the mod
 
So I've been watching my intake temperatures with the deckplate open and capped. If you drive around blind and unplug the SG you forget about the massive changes in "F*IA" on the SG. when sitting still at a light or moving slow through a parking lot I see temps as high as 165*F. When you start moving they drop to whatever the temp is outside, then shoot right back up. I am not sure if this is a negative.

My MPG's are as follows according to SG.

Deckplate capped-
ocity= 12-13
ohighway= 15.1
Deckplate open
ocity- 9-ish
Highway-13.7

Those are avgs over a week of driving in and around town with 60/40 highway/city.

Here is my intake temp at a stop light a few moments ago. Second is 30 seconds and the 3rd is a minute. Next like they went right back up
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you went from 15.1 to 13.7 just from the deckplate being open? or was that heavy footing cuz it sounds great?

for comparison, what does intake temp do when stopped with the DP closed?
 
OregonLC said:
you went from 15.1 to 13.7 just from the deckplate being open? or was that heavy footing cuz it sounds great?

for comparison, what does intake temp do when stopped with the DP closed?

Closed the DP when engine running and reading 164*F. Closed the DP and dropped to 125*F.

I cranked the music with the DP open so I would not hear the engine LOL
 
Most likely, any "performance increases" you are feeling is similar to when you install a performance muffler. Its usually very minimal power increases and is more of a mental than a physical reaction.
 
Most likely, any "performance increases" you are feeling is similar to when you install a performance muffler. Its usually very minimal power increases and is more of a mental than a physical reaction.

Thats what I was thinking until some people started reporting a newfound ability to do burnouts...:confused:
 
My MPG's are as follows according to SG.

Deckplate capped-
ocity= 12-13
ohighway= 15.1
Deckplate open
ocity- 9-ish
Highway-13.7

If you haven't hooked back up the ports, this can definitely hurt your gas mileage. Personally I would not run the truck without those ports hooked up, especially the one for the fuel pressure regulator. I have gotten either the same or better gas mileage with the intake on my truck. Gets mid 15's around town and will do mid 17's for straight highway.

The renewed interest in these has renewed my interest in dynoing mine. I'll make some calls this week to see if I can locate another local awd dyno with some availability.

I added up what the material cost to make and I'd probably charge ~175 to make more of them (including ports, couplers, etc to make it a bolt-in install). For reference, a K&N intake is almost 300 for these trucks.

rich
 
Alright, sorry to bump a old thread but I didn't want to start a new one. After a hard 15K on my deckplate through rain, dust, and highway driving I am going to put the OEM intake resonator/plenum. I can't remember where I put the bolts so does anybody know the pitch/thread for them? Part #? Couldn't find one on Toyotadiy.

FYI: Deckplate still remains one of the best mods you can do for a little added tone. Really wakes the V8 sound up.
 
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Has the mileage loss you reported last year remained consistent? Been thinking about giving this a whirl, but with my mpg's still in the low 12 range, I'm not sure I want to mess with the mojo and risk reducing the numbers further just for the added sound.
 
I'll check the screws when I pull my box this weekend to put one in the 04.

As far as mileage, the beauty of the deck plate is that you seal the hole as needed/wanted with no adverse reprocussions.
 
Doesn't the resonator act as a plenum for quick bursts and immediate throttle response so that the engine will begin to rev quicker?


Bumping an old thread. Was looking at some older Tundras and Sequoias for a third car. Noticed that their stock resonators were quite a bit smaller than the LC. In addition to sound, was wondering if this quote from hoser's link was the reason.

30 dyno runs showed a trend of small resonators best for high rpm power and large resonators good for low down torque with no straight line relationships between the different sizes.
 
Interesting observation. I bet that was part of the tuning from Mr. T to get the LC's to produce more low end.
 
Thread bump. I did basically this same mod on my Lexus with the 4.0 V8 just two days ago. Being conscious of the possibility of elevated intake air temperatures, I built some heat shields out of wood that isolate the freshly cut hole from the hot air of the engine bay. The hole in the lower part of the airbox draws its air from behind the headlight and front bumper where the temperature is pretty unaffected by the engine.

The noise is ridiculous. It's louder than the 5.0 Mustang I test drove last month, but only when stepping on it. Otherwise it cruises like a proper grandma car. And after I reset the ECU I did feel a slight gain in power, even after the engine reached full operating temperature. I need to hook up my tech stream and verify that the intake air temperatures are acceptable.

In ricer circles the mod is called the BFI (big freaking intake) and actually tends to yield better results than an aftermarket intake tube or filter, as long as the "heat shields" are used. That's the kicker.

Someday I'll redo the "heat shields" with a better fitting plastic. Or at least change the white zip ties for black.


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