Homebrew FIPK, K&N Drop-in Filter, Deckplate, and cleaned MAF/TB = HP!

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Put it this way. You spend under $20 on the deck plate and silicone. You take the 30-mintues to install it. If you don't think it did anything to help, you put the deck plate in the hole and seal it back up to OEM status. THAT's the beauty of using a deck plate and not just cutting a hole or using PVC fittings.

I know I felt a BIG difference on my 2000. I used 93 octane exclusively. With the more-advanced timing and more HP output of the engine, the additional airflow most definitely made a difference in the wat the truck felt when driving. That's my $0.02, take it for what it's worth.
 
Also worth noting, the airbox on the 2007 is different. It has a MUCH larger intake passage into the fender with NO ELBOW - just a straight fitting about 3" long at most from the box to the fender area.

I decided that a deck plate probably wasn't needed on that box, but I did want to try the straight intake. I pulled the stock intake tube off and, to my surprise, the 2007 intake tube fitting on the airbox and the OD of the throttle body was LARGER than what was on my 2000. It was CONSIDERABLY larger OD on both ends. So much so, that I had a difficult time getting the rubber fitting to slip over the two connection points. The straight intake was actually a touch SMALLER in diameter than the OEM pipe.

Results was astonishingly zero. Zero performance gains. Zero MPG impact. Zero additional intake noise. Seriously, I couldn't tell that I had changed a thing. I ran it for 100-miles, then swapped back to stock. The intake on the VVTi is designed for the additional HP and therefore additional intake CFM.

If anyone wants my SS/Rubber 2000 UZJ custom intake, let me know. I'm open to offers... (cover shipping and a few $ for my time/costs and it's yours).
 
bamachem said:
I used 93 octane exclusively. With the more-advanced timing and more HP output of the engine, the additional airflow most definitely made a difference in the wat the truck felt when driving. That's my $0.02, take it for what it's worth.
Click to expand...

I know it is expensive and currently $1.52 (AUD) litre here in Australia, but BP Ultimate 98 octane is the best petrol/gasolene ive ever put in the beast. I'm not alone with that assessment.

It runs smoother, cooler, and has more power and economy than the Shell equivalent. In fact if i use the Shell 98 Optimax then i get a rougher engine, poor performance, and average economy.

Added to that a friend of mine bought a new Honda motorcycle a while back that had a sticker on it recommending not to use Shells Optimax because Shell couldnt/wouldnt explain what the red residue was left in the fuel delivery system. Whilst thats hearsay, i can vouch for the BP 98 Octane and no i dont work for them.

Here in Oz i think base is 91, premium is 95 and ultimate is 98 octane with BP.
Try it. Shell will not be in my LC unless it's a last resort. We still have Caltex and Mobil here, which i use if i cant get BP.
cheers
peter
 
Here in the states, (South Eastern US), it's 87 as the base, 91 for mid-grade, and 93 for premium.

Some places are 85/89/91 (typically higher altitudes)

Something worth noting is that there are different methods for calculating/determining the Octane rating of a fuel. Do you know what is used in AUS?
 
Home depot with this thread loaded was a bad idea.

But DAMN it sounds good. I am 150% satisfied. Thank you Bamachem for posting perfect info on how to do this. She sounds like a real V8 now :D

I think I'm going to go drive around a bit.
image-2748481657.jpg
 
So Toyota obviously designed those vacuum hoses to go into the airbox resonator that I just removed yesterday. It's made me think since they spent so much money R&D'ing air intakes and such, we need those lines plugged in and connected. My $35 deckplate+straight intake tube can't be better for the engine since I just removed 4 lines going into the crankcase, PS system, and whatever else they go to.

How would one reconnect those? Would you extend to side of engine bay with new tubing and hose clamps and add RC air filters to the ends to reduce the amount of dust and dirt that gets in them? The lines are after the air filter, so Toyota did not want dirty air in them.

I want this resolved soon, ideas as I am blank right now other than drilling the straight intake tube and adding little ports. If I can get anything on those soon I am going back to a stock tubing with resonator, I don't want to since it sounds fabulous and throttle response is very nice.

Ideas?
 
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2000UZJ said:
So Toyota obviously designed those vacuum hoses to go into the airbox resonator that I just removed yesterday. It's made me think since they spent so much money R&D'ing air intakes and such, we need those lines plugged in and connected. My $35 deckplate+straight intake tube can't be better for the engine since I just removed 4 lines going into the crankcase, PS system, and whatever else they go to.

How would one reconnect those? Would you extend to side of engine bay with new tubing and hose clamps and add RC air filters to the ends to reduce the amount of dust and dirt that gets in them? The lines are after the air filter, so Toyota did not want dirty air in them.

I want this resolved soon, ideas as I am blank right now other than drilling the straight intake tube and adding little ports. If I can get anything on those soon I am going back to a stock tubing with resonator, I don't want to since it sounds fabulous and throttle response is very nice.

Ideas?
Click to expand...

I think the best thing to do would be to reconnect them back into the new tube....similar to the way Toyota originally had it.
 
You want to use fittings that look like this:

Go to mcmaster.com and type in PN 5346K17.

That is a basic hose barb fitting. You'd need to get the correct sizes to match the 4 different lines. Can likely find them at local hardware / plumbing supply stores.

rich
 
2000UZJ said:
But DAMN it sounds good. I am 150% satisfied. Thank you Bamachem for posting perfect info on how to do this. She sounds like a real V8 now :D
Click to expand...



2000UZJ - Are you reporting extra power or throttle response as well? If so, how noticeable?

For example on a scale of 1-10 the LC was a 4 and now is ...
 
lexi4darin said:
2000UZJ - Are you reporting extra power or throttle response as well? If so, how noticeable?

For example on a scale of 1-10 the LC was a 4 and now is ...
Click to expand...

Sounds tons better. Throttle response went from a 4 to a 6. Sound level went from 3 to a 7 (I guess as loud as a intake can get) and power didn't really change. Kick down happens before the engine gets that bog sound.
 
richg said:
You want to use fittings that look like this:

Go to mcmaster.com and type in PN 5346K17.

That is a basic hose barb fitting. You'd need to get the correct sizes to match the 4 different lines. Can likely find them at local hardware / plumbing supply stores.

rich
Click to expand...

Thanks. I will look into this.
 
richg said:
If others were interested, I might be willing to make more of them?
Click to expand...



Rich - are you interested in making some of these and what would you charge?
 
Doesn't the resonator act as a plenum for quick bursts and immediate throttle response so that the engine will begin to rev quicker?
 
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