Home Made Plate Front Bumper (2 Viewers)

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x10 for wanting one!

I volunteer to CAD this (for an FJ62;) if you can send any dimensions of the top plates and front plates to help me get started, and the angles as well, I LOVE the angular look and think it will fit my 'Land Shark' build perfectly!

Very well done!
 
Finally got the bumper back from the powder coater.
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KimoSabe said:
I'm digg'en the style, may-be time to install that 4:88 from the group buy, and slap on some 35+ shoes. That https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/229592-fjz80-strut-grill-satoshi-grill-mod-style.html should put a nice finishing touch.
Click to expand...

Sadly, I made a grill just like that.... but the accident smashed the plastic. I still have the mesh insert, but I cant get the paint to stick to the chrome so it looks like crap in two weeks after I paint it!

heres the grill...

https://forum.ih8mud.com/nv-battle-born-cruisers-northern-nevada/401546-my-new-grill.html
 
Thanks fellas.

I think it looks a LOT better than it use to a couple months ago... :eek:


Hopefully this bumper won't be "tree tested!"
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Hopefully this bumper won't be "tree tested!"
Click to expand...

Just a great looking bumper. I bet it would do better than the factory bumper in a tree encounter. It's amazing how professional that thing looks once it's finished, but that's a comment on my ignorance of metal work not on my assumptions about your ability.

A sign of one's accomplishment is how much it inspires others to follow suit. This makes me want to learn about metal working and welding.
 
DiscovererdLC and Brian - I've been reading this weld technique discussion with some interest, as I do some MIG welding too. I've been at it for 3 years so I'd say that makes me (still) a relative beginner.

As Brian said, I know of no technical reason to want that puddled "TIG" look. Even so, it seems to have some esthetic appeal, so I've actually tried to get welds that look like that, but without much success. I suppose it's sort of like dressing up steel wheels with chrome hubcaps? Style over substance?

With a continuous weld, the puddles just seem to smooth together, no matter how much up and back I do. The only thing that has come out somewhat like that was using a "stitch weld" setting, where the arc stays on, but the wire feed cycles on and off.

DiscovererdLC - would you say that technique helps you keep an even, consistent bead? I have trouble with that, even when I don't jiggle or flinch. The bead shape changes as the heat in the metal builds up.

Just for comparison, I use .035 ER70S-3 wire rather than the more typical ER70S-6, and 15% CO2/85% Argon rather than the usual 25/75. Voltage runs lower at about 17 V for short arc transfer, but I can easily crank it up to 31V or so for spray arc transfer for serious penetration.

Anyway- still scratching my head over the TIG look thing. I've seen it several other places as well, and like it too, but feel a little guilty about liking it.

Mark
 
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Bambusiero said:
DiscovererdLC and Brian - I've been reading this weld technique discussion with some interest, as I do some MIG welding too. I've been at it for 3 years so I'd say that makes me (still) a relative beginner.

As Brian said, I know of no technical reason to want that puddled "TIG" look. Even so, it seems to have some esthetic appeal, so I've actually tried to get welds that look like that, but without much success. I suppose it's sort of like dressing up steel wheels with chrome hubcaps? Style over substance?

With a continuous weld, the puddles just seem to smooth together, no matter how much up and back I do. The only thing that has come out somewhat like that was using a "stitch weld" setting, where the arc stays on, but the wire feed cycles on and off.

DiscovererdLC - would you say that technique helps you keep an even, consistent bead? I have trouble with that, even when I don't jiggle or flinch. The bead shape changes as the heat in the metal builds up.

Just for comparison, I use .035 ER70S-3 wire rather than the more typical ER70S-6, and 15% CO2/85% Argon rather than the usual 25/75. Voltage runs lower at about 17 V for short arc transfer, but I can easily crank it up to 31V or so for spray arc transfer for serious penetration.

Anyway- still scratching my head over the TIG look thing. I've seen it several other places as well, and like it too, but feel a little guilty about liking it.

Mark
Click to expand...

Mark,

Strength takes a major front seat for me over aesthetics when I weld. Yes, its nice to have a good looking weld, but I want the strength to be there first and foremost.

Like I said earlier, I'm a self taught guy who has no schooling. Ive tried to learn more by myself, and the machine I have isn't anything fancy (Miller 180.) I was using a "loop and swoop" technique like I do on a lots of joints. Its a consistent motion that allows me to hit the top, bottom and middle without stopping. I know, and have talked to professionals that use that technique also.

Matt
 
Finally got the trim and grill back together. Hopefully grill #2 wont have any encounters with trees anytime soon! :lol:


Now if I only had the money to mount a Vision X Evo Prime LED light bar on the bumper... :eek: Someday...

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That's the best bumper build I've seen on here yet. It looks fantastic, not overkill at all but still looks like it means business. Congrats on a job well done.:cheers:
 
I made a front bumper a couple months ago that looks almost exactly like that one. I made my center hoop higher and then split the headlight-turn signal with bars that then angle down to the wings. We've got alot of deer, so I wanted a little taller protection.

I wish that I'd have dropped my winch plate down in between the frame rails like you did though. I placed mine on top and it forces the bumper to stick out a little farther than what I'd like.
 
Love that bumper, so ive started copying it, but ive changed the "wings" a bit so they us 90 degree bent sheet instead of using separate pieces for the horizontal and vertical bits.
 
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