Good point - thankyou. The dimmer is probably desirable. So I could switch the bulbs to LED and run them from 12V as you suggest, then use the converter for the display.
HJ61 in/out temperature gauge repair
- Thread starter UpsideDown
- Start date
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Sorry to drag an old thread back up. But I wanted to know where to find the temp sensors? I see that @sved made his own sensor. Is there a way to buy one that's already shielded?
So far it looks like the specs for the sensor would be 1K NTC sensor. I tried 10K and it was reading a lot cooler than the actual temp.
Sved,
Thank you for the information on wiring and repair. I got a unit that was acting up and followed your instructions. It works great now!
So far it looks like the specs for the sensor would be 1K NTC sensor. I tried 10K and it was reading a lot cooler than the actual temp.
Sved,
Thank you for the information on wiring and repair. I got a unit that was acting up and followed your instructions. It works great now!
Just wanted to say thanks to everyone who contributed to this thread. Thanks to you, I now have a working overhead console. I used to have to smack it a dozen times to get the screen to light up. Now all I have to do is turn the key.
Cheers!
Cheers!
Great advice! I re-soldered these three joints and now the temperature gauge works like new in my HJ61! Thank you!
Just re-soldered as per advice, worked a treat, thanks to all?
Quick question, any particular reason why my inside temp does not come on immediately like the outside? On first start of the day, outside temp comes up immediately on display, inside stays at -E for about 2 to 3 minutes and then displays correct inside temp. After first start of the day, temp comes up at around 1 minute for subsequent starts. Feels like the engine needs to warm up, is this normal or another dry solder joint?
Many thanks
Quick question, any particular reason why my inside temp does not come on immediately like the outside? On first start of the day, outside temp comes up immediately on display, inside stays at -E for about 2 to 3 minutes and then displays correct inside temp. After first start of the day, temp comes up at around 1 minute for subsequent starts. Feels like the engine needs to warm up, is this normal or another dry solder joint?
Many thanks
Hey! Great thread! I have had E E on my display since I bought the LC. Tried to re-solder the pins like previous members and managed to get outside temp to show for about 5 sec. Tried once more and now the display is dark.
Can anyone please post a picture of both working circuit boards?
Need to compare some bridged solders that may need to be fixed. (Forgot to photograph my own
)
Appreciate your help so much.
Can anyone please post a picture of both working circuit boards?
Need to compare some bridged solders that may need to be fixed. (Forgot to photograph my own
)Appreciate your help so much.
Oh yes this will work excellent! Thank you @GS 60
Best of luck.Oh yeah I'll need it
Can you use two different 12v converters?
If not, do you just not connect the unit to the dimmer (terminate and leave it)?
Also did these units come in Fahrenheit or Celsius only?
Anyway to swap the display to be Fahrenheit?
Anyway to swap the display to be Fahrenheit?
plink01
SILVER Star
Hijack
Hi spudman,
Could you check that JDM sahara if there is any seat heater wiring left .From the console to the seats and maybe all the way up to the footwell.Could use that for sure.Even just male/female connecters that match the seat heater switch would be
End of hijack
Hey Sved you mentioned in post 13 a question about seat heaters. Did some Sahara's come with seat heaters??!
I have an Aus 1988 HJ61 and I don't have any seat heaters. Being hot climate I doubt they were ever an option.
But mine does appear to have electric lumbar support.
Does yours have the lumbar support and perhaps you thought it was a seat heater??
Here is my switch. It's been disconnected since I bought the car. The previous owner has put sound deadener all throughout the car and I'm guessing he has buried the plug somewhere under it or under the carpet.
Do you happen to have any photos of where my plug should plug into so I know where to start looking??
Also do you know if there was ever 12v thermometer/altimeters?? I've never seen or heard of one in Aus. I'd love to install one but trying to find a Jap/Euro one with the sensors and then convert it to 12v would probably be too much effort/money.
Thanks for the write up! Super helpful.
Thanks to UpsideDown for starting this thread all those years ago.
Just fixed my overhead Temp display. 4 cracked joints only took 17 years to solve it, should have looked here first.
just need to chase up a new external sensor mine got removed when fitting the ARB bar and winch
Just fixed my overhead Temp display. 4 cracked joints only took 17 years to solve it, should have looked here first.
just need to chase up a new external sensor mine got removed when fitting the ARB bar and winch
Thanks sved, proof you can teach an old dog new tricks.
local electronics store had 1Kohm thermistor for $2.25.
spent 15 mins modifying the old connection and soldering in, just have to protect it now.
BINGO I have both temps showing now.
yes we are in for 42+ today
local electronics store had 1Kohm thermistor for $2.25.
spent 15 mins modifying the old connection and soldering in, just have to protect it now.
BINGO I have both temps showing now.
yes we are in for 42+ today
Well done! I've fixed a couple of these with the same method, resoldering the flexconnection between the main board and the display board. @sved have really made a great write-up on the fix.
Hi
See first post on page 1 of this thread by Upside Down Probably is the cause, had the same symptoms as you and it was dry solder joints as described in post 1 of this thread
@sved knows alot about the panel.
I got the same and it was the wide cable between the two boards. If it shows -E sometimes, my best guess is that the solders on the cable is the cracked or a break on one of the connecting cables. Fixed two boards re-soldering these cables. Could also be the resistor. Can you switch them and see the inner temp behave the same? Then you possibly know it's the resistor. Possible
