HJ61 12H-T top mount WTA intercooler.

[Lasse]

After a lot of searching alot on the web I have found little to nothing on top mounted WTA intercoolers of proper size top mounted on an 12H-T.

My original plan was to do this on my HJ60 with 2H and compound turbo it. But back then I had a complete WTA intercooler system of an Celica CS ST185, since then I have upgraded to a HJ61 truck and marginally upgraded the WTA intercooler unit and radiator to a bigger more proper size for the engine.

Here is the unit:

It has 10.25" (L) X 9" (H) X 4.5"(W) Core Size with proper bar and plate style core designed for WTA use.

In and outlets are 3.5" but planing on welding or soldering/brazing these shut and fab my own in and outlet in respectively 2" and 2.5" pointing more "straight" down towards inlet manifold and turbo exit.

The radiator is a rather small one unfortunately, its core are 24x12x0.75"
Seen here test fitted on my HJ60 last summer:

If the radiator is to small I still have the Celica ST185 intercooler stuff laying around so that I could add an extra radiator if necessary
Not my picture but look the same:

I have scraped my compound plans for now as I have to little time and will try to max the stock CT26 first.
If I were you I would expect this to fall dead silence and not see any progress in many months as my studying takes up much of my time and first I have to finish my custom 24v audio amplifier build
Going to have a lot of sound in my truck to deadens the awesome turbo sound


Going to use Kicker RS65.2 compound up front with own home build amplifier and 2x Kicker L7 10" subwoofers in the back powered by a Pyle PLTA580 amplifier
My amplifier build so far

Sorry for the big pictures, but I hate a thread without them, hate the new thumbnail system and hate too small pictures without any details

 

[Hulsty]

Nice, I have a smaller core and radiator than those on my 13BT and have no issues, it takes out about 80c of EGTS and stays solid even for extended periods.

 

[Gengis]

two things:
The test fit radiator looks a lot bigger than 12x24? The Celica one looks about that
Does the IC have to be "top mount"? You have to mod the in and out anyway, so thinking out of the box could place it elsewhwere.

Just a few thoughts coming from a 5volt engineer.

 

[watrob]

Hi Lasse, can you tell me what this wire is used for and where does it connect to?

 

[Spudman]

I'm currently in the process of installing a top mount IC (long process) but anyway why do you need both, what is the point of a top mount and a front mount together

Not trying to offend your build, it's just that my top mount will be more than enough to cool everything down

Spudman

 

[Tapage]

well you need a rad to cool water to cool your top mounted IC .. luck you don't need AC in Norway ..

 

[Gengis]

We are talking water to air here Spud, thats why I was wondering why it had to be on top. You could fit the actual IC where it won't snag the hood. ( bonnet, in South African english)

 

[Lasse]

Hulsty: took a quick look at your garage and could see you have fitted a small barrel intercooler. Do you have any pre and post intercooler charge air temperatures?

Gengis: I believed to remember that to be the correct size, but anyway it is about the same size as an HJ60 radiator core. The intercooler really is so big that I don't know of a better location for it, also really heavy weighting in at 8kg. Benefits on top of the engine is shorter tubing and that it will get a lot less destructive vibration as it will vibrate with the engine, not against it if I mount it on the fender. I guess silicone hoses would have eliminated this problem, but I really want to fit it on top. It leaves me with more space for other stuff to install. I have a dieselheater and AEM water injection system to fit under the bonnet some day aswell.

You mean you are a digital electronics engineer?

watrob: Will check that out later today if the freezing rain will stop pouring down.

Spudman: This will be a long process as well
As other have pointed out for you I have the top mounted intercooler to cool down the charge air. It does so with water passing small channels inside it. I will then use the front mount radiator to cool the water used in the intercooler to as close to ambient temperature as possible. In winter we sometimes see as low as -35°C so I guess I will see a little performance increase in the winter as colder air is denser

Tapage: It sure can get hot here in the summer and I do miss it a little sometimes but we sure doesn't get the humidity!
About all new cars sold in Norway today comes fitted with air condition as standard and that have been the norm for quite some while.

 

[Spudman]

Thanks guys, I missed that part about being water cooled

 

[Lasse]

watrob: The wire you are curious about are grounded at the intake manifold. It comes out of the wiring loom that goes to the pre heater. Tried to get a half decent picture of it out in the dark with my phone.

 

[watrob]

Thanks for that, as I am going to use the wiring loom on my current 40 which has a 2H most of it will adapted. There is a simular wire from the manifold on the 2H loom that goes back to it's timer also.

The 2H has a edic motor with 3 wires going to it (over inject on start, run and stop), I believe the trick there is to join wires 1 & 2 together and the third stop wire goes to the VSV switch. Also have install the low pressure oil sensor switch from the 2H into the 12ht (the 12ht has a plug in the block which I removed where to fits), this gives me a cut off (stop) on low oil pressure.

 

[Lasse]

Took a look at your engine build thread and thats some serious eye candy! I don't think you need to join the two wires together as they will have no functionality, just insulate them so they don't spark a fire

 

[watrob]

Took a look at your engine build thread and thats some serious eye candy! I don't think you need to join the two wires together as they will have no functionality, just insulate them so they don't spark a fire

Was told that the system runs thru a cycle and that the first two wires need to be joined as that is what actually happens inside the edic motor?

 

[Lasse]

If the EDIC control circuit need some kind of feedback or something to function property I would guess joining them together might help, other than that I see no point as the wires only are outputs from the controller and since the 12H-T doesn't have any electric management system like the EDIC system they really will have no function. One way to test it would be to try to start the engine with them just insulated first and if it wont start or run properly then you try to connect them together. Anyway I guess it wont hurt connecting them in the first place either. Up to you

I have background in electronics and computer electronics and now studying to become an electronic engineer, but I am also humble, wouldn't look at myself as any more than a novice and I certainly still have much to learn

 

[watrob]

If the EDIC control circuit need some kind of feedback or something to function property I would guess joining them together might help, other than that I see no point as the wires only are outputs from the controller and since the 12H-T doesn't have any electric management system like the EDIC system they really will have no function. One way to test it would be to try to start the engine with them just insulated first and if it wont start or run properly then you try to connect them together. Anyway I guess it wont hurt connecting them in the first place either. Up to you

I have background in electronics and computer electronics and now studying to become an electronic engineer, but I am also humble, wouldn't look at myself as any more than a novice and I certainly still have much to learn

I also believe it has something to do with the oil pressure sensor that the 2H has (which I have also installed in the 12ht as the hole in the block is also in the 12ht). When you first turn on the key the glow plugs turn on ( in the 12ht the glow screen will turn on) then on ignition the first wire tells the edic to over inject (pulls the IP lever all the way back), reads the pressure switch that there is oil pressure and then the second wire tell the edic to go forward half way to the run position (am not sure the second wire tells the edic to go to the run position but actually creates a circuit that the IP lever needs to be in the run position). On stop the third wire pushes edic lever forward to the stop position.

So from what other OP have done, is that everything will work with a 2H wiring loom, glow plug system to glow screen system, join wires 1&2 from edic motor, install oil pressure cut off switch into 12ht and connect third wire to VSV for engine shut down, well that the theory anyway?

 

[Lasse]

I totally agree on that you should connect the oil pressure sensor or the controller will believe that there is no oil pressure and shut the engine down and the added benefit of never killing the engine from loosing pressure and not noticing. However I believe that just connecting the oil pressure wire to either earth or trough a resistor would fool the system to always believe you got pressure, but then you loose the emergency stopping of the engine in case of oil pressure failure.
I believe the EDIC motor is a stepper motor as it has the ability to go in steps to stop, run and over fuel positions. Based on this I would say connection the two wires together has no functionality unless Toyota made the controller needing a feedback on the stepper motors position which isn't very likely in my mind.

Yepp, connect the shutdown wire to the VSV.


I think it will run just as good either way and if you would like to connect the two wires together do that if not, don't. Doesn't matter

Also if anyone know 100% sure I am wrong and not just something that someone told them please let me know
I have an HJ60 with a 24volt 2H so know how the system works.


Fedex just dropped of my new 50" led bar. Opinions on where to mount it? up front over the future hydraulic winch or up on the roof?
It has 60° beams on the side and 30° beams in the middle. A little worried about my hood lightning up like a christmas tree and blinding me in the dark. Going to fit it to the HJ61 so I hope it won't look to odd with the square headlights.

 

[watrob]

Thanks for the info. The led light if it were me, would position it right up front, with 60deg beam I would be worried about the hood reflection. Also I found setting it done below the hood level on the front bar helps with the eye distraction of that black wall effect between your eyes and the object throwing the light, if that makes sense?