Builds HJ60 off-road camper project "Crewser" from Stuttgart/Germany

[fabianspeth]

Hey guys!

I now am finally the proud owner of my own HJ60! Observed the market for over a year after I finally found mine in the beginning of August. Took almost another two months before I could actually get her!

A short introduction: I'm a 25 year old oldtimer enthusiast and am owning 4 projects at the moment. Besides the HJ60, which became my "daily" driver and hauler as well as soon to be off-road camper, I own a Datsun 240Z which I'm restoring and building as a historic/period correct street legal racecar, a finished Honda CB550 Café Racer (see below) and a Honda XR600R Scrambler project for next year!

I'd love to share the progress and development of my Cruiser with you as well as use your tremendous pool of information and wisdom!
First I plan to work out all the electrical gremlins from 9 (!) previous owners, before bigger and more importantly pricier projects can start. First and foremost the Z has financial priority, hoping to get the chassis painted this winter.

I already started to clean out the interior intensively, quite a lot of dirt, grot and dust collected over the years, pictures will come when I'm completely finished, the rear bench and the trunk are still missing!

That's whats going to happen, and I'm happy to hear about feedback from you guys if you already have some!

- Fuel Gauge doesn't work properly. PO said it only goes down to half full. And I'm not sure if that translates to empty, or the lower half of the tank just has no gauge relevance right now. Needle shows 3/4 full tank right now, with 350km (~220 miles) already on the clock. That's why I think half full gauge (~700km/~440 miles) might mean an actually empty tank.

- Temperature gauge does nothing at all. Heard that fuel and temperature gauge share the same ground, maybe that's why they both act up?

- The heater blower motor rattles a bit, sound like an electrical rattle, not a mechanical one. Cleaned the blades thoroughly already, cant be a leaf, nut... etc.!

- The off position for the heating/venting is not really of, but the same as position one. Can it really be the resistor? Doesn't really sound like it.

- Radio and cigarette lighter receptacle don't work, probably bad wiring from one of the POs

- I have a small rust area on the right side of the frame under the C pillar I have to fix until November, when I have to get new German TÜV inspection!

- Platform/Drawer build as a sleeping area, with a fridge. The rear bench should still be in the car, and only be put down for the sleeping platform. Biggest inspiration is Theron's FJ60 "Bean" build!

- The Rims have aluminium corrosion, am going to polish/brush them - don't like too much of a polished look. When the current rubber is down I'm going with black rims and BFG A/T KO2s and am going to sell the current rims, as I'm not in love with them!

- But for the most important part: The seats! Right now there are some unknown to me seats in there which are terrible! They are ugly, dirty and disgusting, and the fabricating to the original rails is terrible, one corner on the drivers side seat already broke of.
I'm in love with the original seat covers, just fell in love with the typical 80s brown design! The rear bench is in great shape still! That's why I'm tending to sourcing original front seats, and put new "OEM" seat covers on them if torn. Which is the best source of OEM style seat covers? Those from "City Racer LLC" are the only ones I found for now.
I found a set of original front seats in Germany, "but" the passenger side is a bench for two passengers. Not sure yet if I love or hate the idea of that! Would mean I had to get rid of the center console, which I already grew fond of. And the drivers side cover is torn in the usual spot.
I've heard that the comfort of the original seats isn't the best though, but the only other option would be Scheel-Manns in brown/beige, that's way out of the financial league for now, and I sill find them looking too modern. Plain black seats or anything similar is not an option, they don't match the interior at all.


Plans for the next year, when the big money is no longer only reserved for the Datsun the following is planned:
- rear bumper tire carrier. I love the Classic Bumper from 4PlusProducts design by far the most, love it even more with "MANUCHAO"s tire carrier swing out modification. BUT: shipping cost from the US to Germany as well as customs would be ridiculously high...:/ Does anyone of you know of European alternatives!?

- roof rack. Don't like the typical ones from ARB - they are looking to modern and not minimalistic enough. Design wise I like the roof rack from TLC 4x4 style the most. No Idea about quality though. The only available options in Germany I found so far are ARB, Rhino and Front Runner. I don't think neither of their designs match a classic 60 series rig.
- maybe some day a Road Shower on the roof rack, as well as a 270° batwing awning.


In case some of you guys actually made it all the way to the end, even though there is that much text, and this little imagery I'm really thrilled about it! Hope It'll be the other way around in the future!
Happy to hear from you guys, and am very curious about the Ih8mud Community!

All the best from Stuttgart/Germany!
Fabian

 

[dogfishlake]

Great looking 60! Sounds like a great stable of other toys too. Your 60 looks like it's in great shape. I didn't take long at all to find a decent passenger seat for mine and convert it to the drivers side. They still looked used though so the city racer set would be nice. Haven't seen any other fabric as close as that.

Keep the posts and pictures coming!

 

[hj 60]

Nice HJ, the roof is 1.40 cm wide if you search for old roofracks or make your own, I used 4 to make one roofrack with boxes for camping storage.
If the fan is always on #1 leave it, off is not drivable, if 1 and 2 fail it is the resistor, maybe someone bypassed it?
there are some EU vendors, did you visit the bushtaxi event because most of them are there.

 

[fabianspeth]

Great looking 60! Sounds like a great stable of other toys too. Your 60 looks like it's in great shape. I didn't take long at all to find a decent passenger seat for mine and convert it to the drivers side. They still looked used though so the city racer set would be nice. Haven't seen any other fabric as close as that.

Keep the posts and pictures coming!

Thank you! Indeed it does, but also a lot of work getting and/or keeping them running!
Passenger side is easily convertible to drivers side?

Nice HJ, the roof is 1.40 cm wide if you search for old roofracks or make your own, I used 4 to make one roofrack with boxes for camping storage.
If the fan is always on #1 leave it, off is not drivable, if 1 and 2 fail it is the resistor, maybe someone bypassed it?
there are some EU vendors, did you visit the bushtaxi event because most of them are there.

Thank you! Do you have pictures of your rack somewhere?
Someone, or something bypassing it would be my guess as well, only know resistor failure from my parents car, that all intervals run at full power for example.
But what do you mean undriveable? I actually unplugged the blower at the moment, because always running on #1 became old quick.
I sadly couldn't make it, since the truck was ready one week after it for pick up... Would've gone there directly if it worked out sooner!

And since I lacked pictures the last time, here are some for your viewing pleasure from today's little ride!

 

[dogfishlake]

Passenger side is easily convertible to drivers side?

Yes. There is a small hole in the vinyl on the inside of the seat that will show, but is barely noticeable.

 

[dogfishlake]

Awesome pictures, by the way.

 

[mongoose2231]

Nice truck, great pics. The hj is a great truck!!

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Looking forward to what you do!

 

[hj 60]

This is a link with more pictures of roofrack but just home made cheap stuff, I sleep in the car so need room, just see I used 5, overkill
Roofrack ElCheapo, DIY: 140 cm x 220 cm - hj60.freeforums.org

When the blower stops I notice the car windshield damp, so that's why I think it is better to have it always on #1 because at#3 is louder and to much (when 1&2 are broken resistor)

Is 4x4 low turn without sound or do you need birfields?
Also if you need shops in europe euro 4x4 http://www.euro4x4parts.com/ and wustentauglich Toyota Landcruiser J6 - Wüstentauglich are good

 

[fabianspeth]

Thank you guys!

That's indeed barely visible!

Regarding the rack, I'l go with a bit more aestethical pleasing solution, I know, form follows function, but I'm also a bit of an artsy guy! Won't be that much on the cheap end though!

I don't have dampness problems yet! Fingers crossed!

I don't think I fully understood you. You mean if the axles make sound whilst in 4x4 low range when turning? And if so that I need to rebuild my birfields? Have yet to fully test it and hear, but for now only a bit of tire squeak in AWD.

Thanks for the links! I actually know Manuel from Wüstentauglich, Looked at a HJ60 he wanted to sell about half a year ago. Back then he mentioned that the online shop doesn't work anymore, but he seems to have fixed it!

 

[Jentuh]

Good looking rig!! I start to like those small fender wideners (or what ever they are called). Might be a solution on mine with running wide tires, but don't want to wash my rig every week.

If you looking for some original seats, give Maarten a call from www.cruiserword.eu.
They also got rear bumpers with swingways, and they're located in Holland.

Really like your pictures, it shows your the artistic kinda' guy!

 

[fabianspeth]

Thank you! I'm not so sure if I'll leave them on when I'll change tires and rims some day, but they do grow an me! PO put them on there to fully cover the tires for the German TÜV.

That's a great idea, will do! Didn't see any on their website, but maybe they'll still have some in their stockpile!
Have seen their bumpers, I do however like the ones from 4plusproducts more! Cost its almost the same, but shipping and taxes will be way harsher on the US items...

Thanks man! Appreciate it!



So I'm thinking about my rear platform and drawer system. In particular about the "house battery" setup.
I was thinking a "dual" battery - more like a third 12V to the 24V stock dual battery system.
I want to expand it with solar some day, need normal 12V plugs for USB etc. and also a 240V system for laptop and camera battery charging.
Am I somewhat right with this basic setup:
24V Stock System -> 24V to 12V converter -> DC DC MPPT converter thingy, whatever its called, which is also capable of handling a solar panel without an extra solar controller -> 12V "house battery" -> 12V cigaretteligther receptacle / USB -> as well as 12V to 240V Converter with the needed wattage for the things I plan to use.
Would be lovely if you guys could shed some light on the matter, and point out mistakes I have in my thinking!

Thanks guys, have a nice weekend!

 

[fabianspeth]

I've been working on the electric under the dash today, cleaning up the mess previous owners did under there, as well as fix some electrical gremlins, probably all caused by said POs.

I managed to get the fuel and temperature gauge to work somewhat properly. The Fuel Gauge seems to be working correctly again, the temperature sender checks out with the correct resistance for the temperature, however the gauge shows way too hot!
Main fault was a missing nut on one of the contacts of the fuel gauge, which is also ground for the temperature gauge. It also connects to a ballast/resistor, which function I did not yet understand.

I also cleaned up the little metal finger in the fuel gauge mit some very fine grit sandpaper, which often seems to correlate with grounding issues, for what I've read in some other threads here!

As I said, the temp gauge now works at least, shows wayyy too hot though! Within 3-5 minutes of operating time it reached hot! However measuring the resistance on the sender shows everything is still fine!
The FSM states that the resistance of the temperature gauge should be 55 Ohm. The one in my Cruiser, as well as the one in a spare instrument panel both measure approximately 25 Ohm! It feels like the gauge shows about double the temperature.

Regarding the blower off position I was able to eliminate the swith itself, everything insider there is in working order! When I unplug it completly the blower is still blowing = getting power from somewhere else.
After some searching I found the culprit, I however did not understand how to fix it yet!
One of the POs connected the heater fuse with the blinker fuse behind the fuse panel with a cable to get power. When I disconnect the cable, or the blinker fuse, the blower stops. And does not run on any position.
The black cable with the red terminal end:

This bridges the power to the blower at all times, however it's still possible to get more power to the blower from position 2 and up!
What could the reason for all of that be!?

One thing at at time! To not blow this post up to much, and trying to get some tips from you guys without it being too much, I'll post the further electrical "progress" under the dash within the next days!
A great evening - or whatever time it is at your place - to you guys!
All the best
Fabian

 

[fabianspeth]

It took me a bit longer to write the second part, maybe some of you guys have some insight on these problems:

After further investigating the POs electrical disfiguring I also ended up where all the relays are (I guess!?, I'm having trouble understanding the FSM diagram to locate all the correct electrical component positions, since it's for a RHD 60, and some parts are mirrored, and some are not).

I do not know why one of the POs tried to get power at one of the relay(?), it's the white and green cable in the picture coming from the bottom. There had to be a reason he chose that relay(?), does anybody know what the one in the middle of the picture does exactly? The thick blue one leading to this relay(?) has been tempered with at some point as well!
All tucked away its the one in the front on the right:

If you'd looked closely you might have noticed the huge Hella flasher relay. It's not the original one, and is also making problems already, the right blinker is flashing at double the speed on some occasions. I would like to find an (original) flasher relay, that'll fit in the original location (the empty one above) and clip in with the rest of the relays. Some insight where to find them in Europe?

Am I correct in thinking that this is the original radio plug:

Would like to adapt it like you do in new cars, installing aftermarket radios, not like the PO just connect it only to the battery, so it doesn't power on and off with the key.

That's the aftermath of what I was able to remove from the POs installs! The 24V VDO Radio is sadly broken, It doesn't turn on any longer, and sadly hasn't had a build in fuse from the factory...

In theory I already repaired the cigarette lighter receptical, but it again had no power anymore. The first time I repaired it it had 24V. I now measure only 9V at the plug!? Where did the juices go!? The light inside the receptical gets the full 24V. What do you HJ (24V System!) guys measure at your receptical?

 

[mongoose2231]

wow, the picture above brings back memories, not fond ones though, lol

 

[fabianspeth]

I just looked into the cigarette lighter receptical situation and came to the following conclusion:
Whatever kind of power comes out of the receptical, it's the "WRONG" kind of power!

I repaired the cables/plug behind it, now my multimeter says ~24V, no more 9V rubbish.
However nothing plugged into the receptical works. If the light switch is on, the light inside the receptical works! Measured it as well with the multimeter, also ~24V. So I unpinned the plug and swithced the plus from the receptical and the light. Now the light doesn't work, however the receptical does!
Meaning: Whatever kind of 24V sorcery power the multimeter is reading for the receptical, it's the "wrong" kind of power!
I'm at a loss, as I have not a single clue what the f*** ist going on!? Can anyone of you guys shine a light upon the matter and elaborate what could be wrong!?

 

[fabianspeth]

Further investigation: Looking into broken Cables along the way of the receptical lead!
There's power at the fuse box for the cigarette lighter! There's no continuity from there to the receptical. The cable from the lighter up until the plug behind the instrument panel has continuity. Interestingly it changes it's color from red with a little green and two blue dots every couple of cms to red with little BLACK and two blue dots. This cable disappears down to the relais panel near the kickpanel. The one coming from the fuse box, also red with little GREEN and two blue dots, vanishes somewhere down there as well. Wasn't able to look deeper into it, since the cold temperature was unbearable for any longer!
I dont' understand why the cigarette lighter lead would need to go down there though!? The FSM also states that it should be a straight shot from the fuse box to the receptical. However I think the wiring diagram in the FSM is rubbish anyway. Cable colors aren't accurate (this one was just marked as plain red) and it's hard to figure out where the cables route along in the real wiring harness.
Any input for a better wiring diagram? Preferable with actual plugs and all the other components! HJ60 1984 for that matter.

Also tried to figure out why the PO bridged the heater power from the blinker fuse, as I posted above in a picture already! The positive lead into the heater (named A/C) fuse is blue and a bit thicker. Measured, there's no power at the cable. Probably the reason the PO bridged it.
I just had the suspicion that maybe it's only the circuit breaker for the heater! Have to check it tomorrow! Sadly the wiring diagram in the FSM is again difficult to understand, since the A/C and heating is mashed together in there, even though my model doesn't even have A/C.

 

[Spike Strip]

Is this a Tilt Meter ?

If yes, do not throw away - you can sell it! Difficult to find here in the States.

 

[fabianspeth]

Is this a Tilt Meter ?

If yes, do not throw away - you can sell it! Difficult to find here in the States.

No worries, it's a 24V to 12V Converter! Won't throw it away either! Tilt Meter was sadly never in my Cruiser, would love to have one!

 

[morganism]

Was the yellow cable hooked to stereo ? Cuz it may have been a bypass of the switch to igniter\starter undersized cable hack