HJ60 Engine Knock (1 Viewer)

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Mar 15, 2012
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I'm driving my 1984 HJ60 (2H, h55) on a road trip, about 2000 miles from home.

All of a sudden it developed a significant, loud, sudden knock. It's RPM dependent, transmitted through the shifter, and quite loud. When it first happened there was a bit of a stumble in the engine but smoothed right out. I was in a rough part of town when it started, so I drove slowly for a couple miles to a motel.

I checked the valve clearances. I haven't checked for air in the injector lines. However, the fact that it can be felt through the transmission/shifter has me thinking bottom end.

Have I lost/spun a bearing? Any recommended steps to diagnose further?

I could drop the oil pan here in the parking lot, which might show me if it is a bearing, but I don't think now is the time for me to do my first bearing job. That's assuming its still repairable and not about to throw a rod.

Does anyone know a decent shop in Springfield, IL?
 
Well it is remarkably hard to find someone to drop the oil pan and look at the bearings on this thing.

I could do that much myself, but I don't want to have this thing disassembled in a motel parking lot.

Anything else to suggest while I work on finding a shop?
 
Sorry to hear about your woes. I hope someone here chimes in from your area. I wouldn't start your engine until you figure what it is that's going on. It can easily turn a moderate job into a terrible one. Since its transmitting through your tranny I'd suspect it's a crank related issue too. Does your clutch pedal move or just vibration through the shifter?

Just googling I found a small engine repair shop 20 mi from you but they didn't answer their phone.
tel:(217)494-1434

I was searching for a farm tractor repair place as it's probably the engines most similar to a 2H but mostly you get semi truck and computer tuning shops for Duramax and cummins. A simple ma and pa engine shop would be my first choice.
 
Thanks for the help. I just had the most ridiculous tow, about 1/4 of a mile from the motel to the Cummins/ford diesel shop across the street.

On Tues, after the holiday weekend, their tech will be in and will tell me if they are willing to help diagnose. I was turned away by every shop I got on the phone today.

My plan now is to have someone drop the pan and decide if we can get me on the road with bearings. RADD in Canada tells me there are 3 variations on 2H bearings so I'd have to figure out which I need, and then get them sent from Australia.

If the damage is more serious, I've got a line on a vehicle hauler to get it back to California, where I'd probably get some help from from @orangefj45. I've also gotten some great help/advice from @beno and @Eco 45.

Any more ideas on sourcing bearings, if that's what I need? @cruiserdan?
 
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I have been out of the parts supply-chain for almost a year and a half. I can tell you that the 2H was never sold or officially supported by Toyota in the USA so you will be dealing with specialty folks such as you have already named.
 
4wheel auto in Alberta had stuff shipped to be like in 2 days from my order. I figure a couple more to get across the border. They might save you some time. They keep a large stock on hand.

advanced search | 4wheel Auto

If the shop is capable of using a torque wrench properly they can most likely be of help. Those type of shops are not super common now a days unfortunately.
 
I can get you bearings in the US market. Again, you would be waiting for 5-7 days easily.

I would recommend shipping that sucker back west and deal with it from the comfort of your own driveway.
 
Thanks all. I've got a few days next week to try and make an informed plan before I'll have to fly back home and get to work.

I'm tempted to get it hauled home now but if all I need are some bearings it would be so easy to fix where it sits ...

I've got a quote on vehicle transport thanks to Beno's contact.

The only other news to report, I drained some oil from the pan and looked for metal bits. I saw some specks but nothing major. Dipstick looked fine.
 
Could be a bad rod knock before the bearing turned. Hopefully. Then you could 2000 grit polish it and put a new set of shells in. Did your oil pressure tank when the whole thing happened?
 
If the engine has some kind of stumble it may be injector related.
If you pulled all the glow plugs out so there was no compression, you could spin the engine on the starter and/or by hand and get a better feel for where the noise is coming from. Turning it by hand may allow you to feel the rough spot if its a bearing.
 
Could be a bad rod knock before the bearing turned. Hopefully. Then you could 2000 grit polish it and put a new set of shells in. Did your oil pressure tank when the whole thing happened?


AFAIK, he said the oil pressure did not drop.
 
If the engine has some kind of stumble it may be injector related.
If you pulled all the glow plugs out so there was no compression, you could spin the engine on the starter and/or by hand and get a better feel for where the noise is coming from. Turning it by hand may allow you to feel the rough spot if its a bearing.
There was a momentary stumble that coincided with the first knock but it smoothed right out and ran fine (other than the knock) while I limped the 2 miles to motel.

I wasn't watching the stock oil pressure gauge during the incident but I have a functional oil pressure safety switch which did not cut the engine.
 
A spun bearing usually fills the engine oil with sparkles of metal. So if you're not seeing that I'd say it's good news in that respect. I hope it's not a broken/dropped pre-combustion chamber.
 
I emptied about 10 oz of oil into a motel coffee cup. There were a few specs of something in there but nothing outlandish.

My problem now is one of timing. The whole thing is on hold because of the holiday weekend in the US. I rented a car for the weekend so I could get my girlfriend and I to a wedding. If I'd missed that I'd have had some real trouble. I'll drive back to Springfield on Monday to work on next steps.

Is it a bearing? I don't have time to get the parts shipped and installed before I have to be at work. So I haul the vehicle home and deal with it later.

Is it a damaged block? I definitely dont have time to deal with that right now. Haul the vehicle.

Is it top end? Valves or precups? Again I have to haul it home.

If its not internal, just a really horrendous diesel knock? I could probably repair that where it sits but then I'd have to drive it a few hours north to where I have some family who could store it. I'd have to fly home to get back to work and come back for the truck sometime in the future.

So I've reached out to coordinate a vehicle hauler. I now have to figure out how to get my possessions/tools/parts shipped since I doubt the auto hauler will let me leave them in the vehicle.
 
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Oil pan is off, no sign of metal in the oil, and everything looks normal (at least with the caps still on).

Cranking the engine with a bump starter its not making the noise.

Do I turn my attention to clutch/flywheel? Fueling?

This is good news but now I am confused.
 
Well s***. After hunting around in the oil pan found a few chunks of steel. And listening more closely it sounds like a connecting rod/wrist pin at one of the pistons.

I'm now focused on getting all my tools and camping gear boxed up for shipping (lucky there's an Amtrak on both ends so at least that's cheap) and getting Summit to get me a car hauler.

She'll be headed for @orangefj45 for next steps.

The motor came from Spector originally but sometimes it just doesn't go your way. The only thing that really frustrates me is Ive wanted to sell this one so I can start building up an hzj75 Troopy ...
 

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