HJ47 welcome here? (1 Viewer)

[Henry James the 47th]

last one. Now for the question of the manifold flip and turbo install...

I've also got to swap out the stator on the a/c clutch. I've no idea how to take that apart, but hopefully it won't be too complicated.

And hello page 33. Who wouda thunk this build thread would have gone on for this long?

 

[Henry James the 47th]

For those of you out there wondering what the heck a glow plug is, here's a cut-away drawing. Essentially it's a little coil of resistance wire placed inside a jacket.

I've also discovered that the wire that the wire coil inside the controller is called resistance wire and is available in various sizes, configurations, and lengths. For my truck's system, the wire is round and 1.83 mm in diameter, nickel-chrome I do believe. I'm thinking of getting myself a foot or two of the wire, and then I would have a lifetime supply to repair my controller with and an easily-serviceable component in the glow system. Here's a link for anyone more interested in these resistance wires:

Electrical Resistance Wire

 

[MAD40er]

Just got the newly keyed-alike door locks back from the local locksmith.

Have they been keyed to the Ignition as well? Just wondering if you had to use two seperate keys, one for doors and one for ignition?

Amazing build thread by the way, it is quite inspiring to see the lengths you have gone to to keep it as oem as possible!
Also good to see you progress experience wise with the welding as your thread moved along! Great job on the metal work too!

 

[Henry James the 47th]

Hey, thanks for the kind comments!

I have the door locks on a different key than the ignition. I have a new ignition barrel, and the oem keys are kinda huge, so I didn't even consider whether the ignition could be keys the same as the doors - I don't think so, but I could be wrong. So, I will go with a separate key for ignition and doors. I'll need another key as well for the little padlock to secure the spare tire to the tire winch.

 

[merbesfield]

I ordered a 16" wheel rim from my local Toyota dealer (obtaining the part number from the wheel from ENS Industrial in Sask.)- this gorgeous unit only costs $70!! I had another Toyo M55 put on it and it's looking sharp!

What is the width of this wheel?

 

[Henry James the 47th]

I can't quite remember the rim width for certain, but I'll take measurements when I get the next 4 of them and post it up on this thread. They were around 7" wide IIRC.

 

[merbesfield]

I can't quite remember the rim width for certain, but I'll take measurements when I get the next 4 of them and post it up on this thread. They were around 7" wide IIRC.

that sounds wide, i thought the 15's were only 5.5 or is it 6.5? i like the look. i guess with these there are no hub caps?

 

[Henry James the 47th]

You know that these are 16" rims, right? Maybe the width was 6.5 - I'll order some soon and then I'll check the width measurement.

 

[lostmarbles]

What is the width of this wheel?

I can't quite remember the rim width for certain, but I'll take measurements when I get the next 4 of them and post it up on this thread. They were around 7" wide IIRC.

that sounds wide, i thought the 15's were only 5.5 or is it 6.5? i like the look. i guess with these there are no hub caps?

You know that these are 16" rims, right? Maybe the width was 6.5 - I'll order some soon and then I'll check the width measurement.

For what it's worth, my ex-factory 16" Toyota split rims are 5 1/2 inches wide.

 

[Volcano cruiser]

DAng!

Henry if I wore hats anymore and for this purpose I will go out a get one, is off to you. I just spent nearly two hours reading you thread from top to bottom. You have made great progress which is resulting in a fantastic looking vehicle. The amount of knowledge that you have and work you have done in varied areas is scary to a guy like me who has embarked down this road with less than .5% of your knowledge. I am sure that I will know more after this build than when I started but most of it will be from reading about the work done by guys like you and the great advice I get almost everyday from my fellow mudders. Great work!

 

[Henry James the 47th]

Nice to read your comments!

This forum is a great resource, and they is no substitute for making lots of mistakes.

And boy, talk about hats - I have to wear so many different ones through the course of this project, right now hopping between electrical troubleshooting and autobody prep work. I know I'm certainly no pro at any particular category of vehicle rebuilding, and hoping that the overall combination results in something decent. Right now, with the eternity that the filling, sanding and priming is taking, I wish I had the skills to bring the bare sheet metal a lot closer to perfect before laying down the plastic.

Well, here's the update: I've been cursing at my wiper motor a fair bit, and can now take it apart in milliseconds. With some help from a guy today, I now have a much better grasp of exactly how it works, and there indeed seems to be some problem, at a minimum, with the wiper motor.

I can get the motor to turn the arm, but when it gets to the end of the electrical contact sector on the main gear, for some reason the other contact (of the three - my motor also has three brushes) does not work to reverse the motor the other way. I looked really closely at the contacts going to the face of the gear sector plate, and one of them was a little frail at the end, so I suspect that the wiper motor is done.
So, I'll be ordering a new one tonight. It's also possible that the wiper switch is not working properly, so I've ordered a new one of those already. The wiper relay makes a noise and appears to work. So, the only possibility remaining, after i get a new motor, switch, and relay, is that the wiring between them is not right. We'll cross that bridge when we get there.

I've been plugging away at the body panels and they're getting really close now. One you get a complete coat of primer-surfacer on there, the flaws just leap out at ya, so the subsequent finishing stages seems to get longer and longer. I'm doing my best this week to wrap them up so I can move onto the main tub and upper cab piece. Here are some picture from the past few days:

 

[Henry James the 47th]

more and more

 

[Henry James the 47th]

next set - currently there are 13 pieces in the rotation of bodywork steps...

Only two pieces to go after this lot.

 

[Henry James the 47th]

another set of three

 

[Henry James the 47th]

last couple

 

[Henry James the 47th]

Took a little break from the bodywork and set out to change the a/c clutch stator. I didn't have a manual that covers the a/c compressor, so I was trying to figure it out. At first, it looked like a simple, remove nut and washer, use three-jaw puller affair, but then I found that the puller wasn't budging the pulley. I posted up a question about it, and then got a hold of an expanded parts view of the a/c clutch, pic 1 below.

Once I figured out that the hub can be simply pulled off from the rotor, the rest was pretty straightforward.

 

[Henry James the 47th]

next set

 

[Henry James the 47th]

another three. Out with the 24v stator and in with the 12v unit.

 

[Henry James the 47th]

here's the next set. I took care not to lose the two thin adjusting washers on the top of the spindle. They set the clearance for the clutch halves.

 

[Henry James the 47th]

and more. I decided to take the bearing out of the rotor so I could clean the little loose flange that protrudes out the other side. I used a belt tensioner pulley as a drift.