HJ47 welcome here? (1 Viewer)

[Henry James the 47th]

After welding, then it was etching primer followed by brake caliper paint.

 

[Henry James the 47th]

I finished off by cleaning the Aisin selectors in a bucket of diesel, and then painting the media-blasted brake line T-junction, and a couple of other brake line mounting tabs from the 60 axle, again using caliper paint.

The extra 60 series column I picked up will be sort of a contingency plan, in case my first attempt at modifying the (other) column to fit doesn't work out satisfactorily.

i also picked up a 60 series front axle breather with a hose today at the wreckers, and will be cleaning it up and replacing the non-extended one I installed last week.

This is a fun dance: one step forward, and then two back, and repeat...

 

[Henry James the 47th]

Got a few goodies in the mail from Australia today:

-a 75 series license plate mounting bracket. The lamps that CCOT sells fit perfectly.
-a hose clamp for the connection of lower rad hose to water pump
-a glow pug controller. This little doohickey is the ultra-primitive glow system that Toyota used up until Feb/82, when they switched to a glow plug timer. It's simply a coil with a little mesh screen in front of it. It mounts to the dash to the left of the the instrument cluster. I haven't seen one in operation before, but I assume it glows cherry red after current is run through it for a spell. The glow cycle for my truck is 15~30 seconds, and I plan to use a manual push button switch instead (or possible as well as) of an ignition-operated glow start.

 

[Radd Cruisers]

Be cool if you could find a late model momentary switch.


Rob

 

[Henry James the 47th]

I know the part you mean, and I've been looking for one!

 

[subzali]

Great build! Funny how the transformations begin once you already have it in pieces...

The 8.8, 10.9 designation etc. is to designate a strength standard, like grade 5 and grade 8 bolts in the US. I think it's just coincidence that the tap drill size is the same.

buckroseau has an easy way he's figured out (and others too) for drilling out spot welds. Don't remember the specifics, but he talks about it in both of his build threads, perhaps a little more detail in the LPB thread. HTH

Super inspiring that someone who's never welded before is willing to take on such a project! Hats off to you sir! Hopefully I will join the welding ranks later this summer!

 

[Henry James the 47th]

You're right, sort of, the number refers to a "property class designation", of which yield strength is one aspect. Check out table 10 in this link:

http://euler9.tripod.com/bolt-database/22.html

I'll take a look at buckrouseau's LPV build thread in more detail to see what he figured out with the spot weld cutting - thanks for the tip.


"Super inspiring that someone who's never welded before is willing to take on such a project! Hats off to you sir!"

Actually, it's a form of insanity and not to be recommended. I have fun going over earlier work and fixing the burn-throughs. Good news is that I'm starting to get the hang of sheet metal welding. Thanks for the support!

 

[Henry James the 47th]

back to the project...first a little work on the side cowl panels. The ones on the new firewall were not in the best of shape, and the floor pan section that attaches to the panel was in poor shape too.

After I removed it, I went and welded a couple of nuts onto the e-brake mounting plate

 

[Henry James the 47th]

The side cowl off the old RHD firewall has the extra plate welded to the inside of it to connect to the heater blower - it's like a flange that the blower mounts against. While my heater blower now relocates over to the other side, I chose to not remove this flange from the cowl panel as I am scheming up a way of routing my air filter inlet to it (more on that later).

Here I'm just checking the fit of the panel off the old firewall in place on the new one.

 

[Henry James the 47th]

Next I started on repairing the rotten floor section adjacent to the side panel. I chopped it out, bent up a section of 16 g. and cut it to the same configuration. The bend on the flange is a bout 110˚.

When i removed the old section, I noticed that the inner side had the spring mount for the vent door spot-welded to it. I was lucky in my choice of cut line that I didn't slice it right in half

Drilled out the spot weld and mounted the hinge onto the patch repair section

 

[Henry James the 47th]

three pics of the welding and grinding sequence

 

[Henry James the 47th]

3 more, showing the patch panel being fitted and welded in, then the welds after grinding down

 

[Henry James the 47th]

...the section now in primer and then I can turn my attention to something else

 

[Henry James the 47th]

I had tried to figure out ways to mount disc brakes on my rear full-floater, but the 4-bolt flange style just is not cooperative in that regard. I was talking with John at E4 Auto about this issue and he very kindly offered to swap me an older style of full floater axle housing for mine. I knew that the earlier type of housing, with the eight bolt flange, would mean that the disc brake install would be a breeze, so I went for it, even though it was another round of the 'one step forward two back' dance i have been getting very proficient at.

it took me a couple of hours to strip the axle down. In the process, I learned all about the differences between '75~'80 F.F. axles, and '80~'90 axles. Other than the flange, the main difference is in the way the hub is mounted. The fixing nut and lock washer system are different, and the outer seal in the early axles is contained withing the outside fixing nut, whereas on the later type of full floater the outer seal is fitted to the end of the axle tube.

 

[Henry James the 47th]

The difference in seals led me to examine the differences between the hub mounting tubes on the axles, and there is a length difference. However, upon closer inspection, the spacing between bearings, as well as bearing size, looks to be the same. The axle shafts have different sizes however in terms of the turned section just under the flange that rides against the seal. The earlier type with the seal fitted into the nut (a 'gland seal' or something like that) requires a axle shaft with a larger section to bear against the seal. The later type has a small section. so, I need to swap both housings and shafts, but the hub seems to fit either without problem (maybe there is something I'm not seeing in this equation yet however...).

Finished off by blasting the housing and axle shaft ends with crushed glass and then etch-priming them. The Gorilla brand duct tape is the answer for effective masking of surfaces when media blasting.

 

[Henry James the 47th]

Did a bunch of cutting welding grinding priming yesterday and today. Didn't have the camera around yesterday unfortunately, but I remembered it today.

I finished off with the driver's side cowl panel, a job involving a fairly large patch, and then turned my attention to the passenger side. In the second picture I'm test fitting the panel back in, and it isn't fully lined up yet, as you can see.

 

[Henry James the 47th]

3 more. I used some #10 sheet metal screws to firmly attach the middle of the firewall hump-shaped panel, then welded. I continued over with the rest of the floor out tot the cowl side panel. Then
I start putting together the passenger side.

 

[Henry James the 47th]

The passenger side cowl panel was in crappy shape and fairly badly pitted, including the funnel-shaped piece that directs air into the heater blower.

 

[Henry James the 47th]

After removing the side cowl panel, the support ledge of the lower panel was in poor condition. On the driver's side I needed to replace a 3" section; here I had to replace more like 9" of metal.

 

[Henry James the 47th]

more work on fitting in a patch